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Old 09-20-2014, 07:44 PM   #15
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Name: Charlie
Trailer: '83 Burro
Virginia
Posts: 331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Colangelo View Post
I took your advice and found an awesome locksmith on Craigslist. He came to my house, looked at the lock and told me it was a great older lock and not to get rid of it. He took the cylinder out and replaced it and then made a few tweaks to the lock and now it works PERFECTLY and I have a key. He made two trips in his truck to my driveway, fixed it, tuned it, and installed it and charged me $29! I gave him a $10 tip for gas and shook his hand and thanked him profusely!
Glad you had a good experience with your locksmith. The good ones tend to be very busy, but the work they do is worth waiting for. A guy who just sells and installs an new lock that has to have alterations to your door is not a real craftsman, your locksmith obviously is. Be sure and have several spare keys made for it... I may be a little OCD about it, but where keys are concerned "one is none and two is one."I won't broadcast my stash methods of course and you should come up with ones that will work for you, but I have three sets of keys (door lock and tongue lock) within less than fifty feet of my camper as I lay in it typing right now.

Froggie
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:13 AM   #16
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Name: Rick
Trailer: Burro
Massachusetts
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Hi John,

Glad to hear that you got your door latch/lock fixed. The latch in our Burro is quite worn and getting frail, to the point that the door could be opened even when "locked". So I installed a deadbolt. I found a chrome Kwickset deadbold with a "thick door adapter kit". It installs about 3-4 inches above the door handle and works great. It is very secure and the chrome matches the original door hardware. I installed the bolt to fit tighter than the door latch so that when locked, the door gasket is squished more resulting in better protection from blowing rain and the infamous fine red sand of the 4 corners area of AZ.

Rick
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:31 PM   #17
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Name: John
Trailer: Burro
New Mexico
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Deadbolt

Rick,

Would you mind taking a closeup picture of the deadbolt you installed and specify the model number again? I think many people would be interested. I was lucky to be able to have my lock fixed but there are many people who write in to say they cannot fix their lock and need a solution. Did you actually drill a hold in the door and in the jamb?

Please detail the steps and let us know what you did.

Thanks!
John
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:34 PM   #18
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Name: John
Trailer: Burro
New Mexico
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Patching Fiberglass around the door hinges

I forgot to ask, what have you all used to patch holes in the fiberglass? I have several screw holes I filled and patched, sanded, and then painted. I found a good wood fill product that works with fiberglass at LOWE'S. It comes in a small tube (like toothpaste) but I'm wondering if there is a more suitable product to use besides the complex polymers used to patch fiberglass that require several mixing steps. I bet there are some instant "out of the tube" epoxy resins that would work.

Thanks!
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Old 09-23-2014, 05:37 PM   #19
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I haven't gotten around to it yet, but any external repairs to my Burro will probably begin at a boat yard that specializes in fiberglass boats. Second choice... a Corvette shop, but those guys are a little more expensive most of the time. Ultimately, I'll need a complete refinish of the outside (it's actually overdue) but I want to do more on the inside first. YMMV

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Old 09-23-2014, 08:31 PM   #20
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Name: Rick
Trailer: Burro
Massachusetts
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Hi John,

I will take a pix of the deadbolt tomorrow and post but here are the details.

Basically it is installed just as in any door. You drill a 2 1/8" hole through the door with a hole saw, (actually drill in from both sides for a cleaner cut). And drill a 1" hole in the door edge. These sizes and a template are included with the deadbolt, just like they are includes with a new doorknob. So you don't have to remember them.

The tricky part is getting the big hole in the correct place as the template cannot be used in its customary position, wrapped around the door, because of the lip on the outside of the door. To get around this I folded the template and used it only on the back side to get the correct backset distance (distance that the center of the bolt is from the edge of the door). I then drilled a pilot hole from that side thru to the other side, then use the hole saw to make the cut in from each side. You always want to drill IN on a finished surface whenever possible.

The bolt aligned nicely with the back edge of the lip on the door jamb, so the latch plate was not used, only a thin plastic spacer glued to the back of the jamb lip. So you must be careful when drilling the bolt hole in the door edge so that the bolt does not want to come out centered on the jamb lip. It must be behind it. But you have some allowance for this as the thickness of your door seal material will effect the placement of the door.

We found the Kwikset deadbolt online (cannot remember where) only because we wanted polished chrome to match the hinges, and this model has an option for thick doors which is a must. The Burro door is 2 1/4" thick. Most doors are 1 3/4" thick. The extension thing just makes the mounting screws and bolt moving pin longer. Total for bolt and extension was under $20.

If you are filling smallish holes in interior or exterior of the Burro, there is a great epoxy product in a clear plastic tube, shaped like a Tootsie Roll. It's called "Water Patch" or something like that. It contains 2 part epoxy which is thick like plumbers putty. You slice off the appropriate amount then kneed it like pastry dough to mix the 2 parts together till the color is fairly even you won't get it perfectly mixed but that's not needed). Then just jamb it into the holes enough so that some product protrudes through the hole to help hold it in place. Use a smooth sharp plastic blade like an old credit card to scrape it smooth. It is kinda dry and sticky so you will learn on the first few holes. Spend time to get this as smooth as you can since is will be VERY hard when cured the next day. It is difficult but not impossible to sand. It WILL be impossible to sand it without scratching the surrounding FG surface, so apply it with care.

This stuff is very strong and the best part is that it is almost the same off white as the Burro Gelcoat (a little bit darker). It is very sticky so wear latex gloves when kneading it.

Rick
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