cabinet latches? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-16-2015, 09:29 AM   #15
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Name: Deb
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Stefan, the problem is that the screws that come with the hinges must be cut down for the size of the door or they will go through to the other side. You will still need something on the other side of the door to keep it closed. I am using bungy cord for some. The closet door is the biggest issue. I haven't found "hookable" spots for the cord.
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Old 06-16-2015, 10:37 AM   #16
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Thanks again everyone! I love all of the ideas. I have found that, as Dennis said, the screws don't hold in the particle board. I may have to replace doors eventually. My most recent "chick fix" was to drill all the way through the fiberglass to use a bolt through the hinges on the closet door. Still won't fix the problem of screws in particle board, but it is a start. Going on a test run this weekend. Stay tuned. I'll let you know how they worked.
As an alternative to building new doors, I have drilled out the screw holes and glued pieces of dowell that fit the diameter of the drilled holes, then use the original screws into the dowell. This is not ideal, because screws into the end grain of wood is only marginally better than screws into partial board. I purchase my dowells from a local wood supplier, so they are of higher quality and screws hold better than they do in dowells purchased from a craft store. A better solution is to buy a plug cutter. (I bought mine from Lee Valley). Then you can make your "dowells" with cross grain so the screws hold better. You have to decide if the more permanent solution is worth the additional expense.
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:02 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Durangodeb View Post
Stefan, the problem is that the screws that come with the hinges must be cut down for the size of the door or they will go through to the other side. You will still need something on the other side of the door to keep it closed. I am using bungy cord for some. The closet door is the biggest issue. I haven't found "hookable" spots for the cord.
If I get a chance I'll try to hot glue a rare earth magnet to the top and bottom of my old closet door and then temporarily tape a piece of steel to the inside of the cabinet (both of these things on the side away from the hinges) and see how that holds. Actually could maybe do it in a few spots on the way down and see if that, combined with the spring hinges, feels like it would have enough strength.

It might be a while as I am just starting to primer all my cabinets to do a color change.

Maybe you could tape some on and see if it works/helps. Know any one with some old computer hard drives. I love the magnets in there.


As far as the screws are concerned, I was thinking rivets. I usually put a small dab of epoxy in the hole and then use an appropriate sized aluminum rivet. Have never had those come loose on other projects. Never tried it on a trailer though.


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Old 06-16-2015, 01:46 PM   #18
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Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
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cabinet latches?

It's possible the problem is not the cabinets, but the axle on the trailer. The rubber in old torsion axles can become hardened and lose its spring. One test is to jack up the trailer on one side (on the frame near the wheel). Watch to see if the wheel drops as the frame rises. Little or no movement means a shot axle and a very rough ride.



I have never had anything come out of our cabinets (standard Scamp hardware). We installed stacking bins in the large closet:

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and small crates in the overhead cabinets:

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Doors remain closed and everything stays in place just fine.
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Old 06-16-2015, 02:12 PM   #19
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I have never had anything come out of our cabinets (standard Scamp hardware). We installed stacking bins in the large closet:

and small crates in the overhead cabinets:

Everything stays in place just fine.
Good to hear. I would assume that the standard Scamp hardware has springs on the hinges? I know the original Trillium hardware in 1977 did not. Love the bins. Was thinking of something similar, when I get that far. Now I have primed white cabinets instead of yellow (colonial white).
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Old 06-16-2015, 02:18 PM   #20
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cabinet latches?

Nope. Scamp uses the cheapest hardware store hinges and friction roller latches. Very basic. When I first got my trailer (used) three years ago, the latch on the closet door was misaligned (from the factory, I presume) and wouldn't stay closed. I rotated the door 180 degrees and reinstalled the hardware and haven't had any trouble since.

BTW- the bins in the closet are from Big Lots. Perfect size, and they latch together for stability. Only $3.50 each.
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:03 PM   #21
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Thanks for the info.
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