Camco RV Blow Out Plug - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-06-2015, 08:37 PM   #15
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If not, you could cut it open and use it as a tool box.
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:59 PM   #16
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That compressor should work well for this application.
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Old 09-06-2015, 10:36 PM   #17
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Trust me Wendy...that compressor will work fine! FWIW, it IS "oiless".

You have basically the same Scamp I have- Std 13'. My compressor is 3 gal...yours 2. I have PLENTY of air to blow those SMALL water lines clear of water. You're only going to open one water faucet at a time. I would get one of the blowout nozzles that has the quick-disconnect to match your hose. You will find it VERY aggravating if you use the cheaper Camco plastic one that somebody mentioned earlier. I bought one of those first and quickly abandoned it.

Again, make sure you set the pressure where it doesnt go over 30-40lbs!

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Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
I hope that link works below. That's my compressor. Please let me know if you think it's safe to use with this camco blow out thingie!

Cheers,
Wendy


Campbell Hausfeld FP2048 2-Gallon Hot Dog Air Compressor w/ Inflation Kit


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Old 09-07-2015, 07:01 AM   #18
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On the compressor specs it says oil free.


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Old 09-07-2015, 07:51 AM   #19
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Oops Darral. I bought the Camco blow out plug with the black plastic valve stem type end. The reason I did that is I have my compressor just set up to blow up tires, like you would find at a gas station. So this one is crummy and I should get quick connect? What makes it aggravating?

Also, now the pita question. I know how to use the compressor, but how do you blow out lines? Just open cold/hot one at a time as you mention at faucet? Do you ensure that fresh water tank drain is open too? What about hot water tank? Should I take drain plug out of that afore I begin too?




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Old 09-07-2015, 11:09 PM   #20
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Just basically think of the air as your water as it works about the same. As far as the fresh water tank, it will have to be drained. Run the pump to get all the water out of the pump/lines as you can. The pump has a one-way valve so that it can pressurize the lines. So blowing through the lines will NOT clean water out of the water pump/valves.

I would pull the water heater plug and drain it completely but put it back in. Again, just like if you were hooking up water, all the air would go out the drain plug and not pressure the lines to get the water out. Most water heater systems on trailers have a "Winterize" valve on it...make sure it's OPEN just like when you're running water. That way, when you turn on the hot water faucets, the air can push through the tank and into the lines out the faucet...just like the cold side.

For what it's worth, you set the "winterize" valve or "Bypass" valve on the water heater when you're winterizing with RV antifreeze. If you didnt, it would try to pump it into the water heater and you dont want to fill the water heater with 6 gallons of that expensive stuff! Yeowww.

Hope this helps some. Others can chime in. It seems we miss some things or some other posters might make it clearer or have better ideas.

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Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
Oops Darral. I bought the Camco blow out plug with the black plastic valve stem type end. The reason I did that is I have my compressor just set up to blow up tires, like you would find at a gas station. So this one is crummy and I should get quick connect? What makes it aggravating?

Also, now the pita question. I know how to use the compressor, but how do you blow out lines? Just open cold/hot one at a time as you mention at faucet? Do you ensure that fresh water tank drain is open too? What about hot water tank? Should I take drain plug out of that afore I begin too?




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Old 09-08-2015, 07:15 AM   #21
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Some of the blow out plugs, my unknown brand being one, have baffles inside the connector end that accepts the compressor. There has been a discussion that if you have these inside the plug the amount of air is reduced significantly, possibly so much that using a 30-45 psi will not remove the necessary water.

Since my plug is plastic, I plan to use a drill to remove those baffles before putting to use this fall.
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:24 PM   #22
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Hi Darral thank you. That all makes sense. So I open the cold first and then the hot faucet after? And when I do this in outside, so I guess I'd want somebody standing at sink noticing when the water blowing out becomes minimal right?

Also, just like you said to leave drain plug in hot water tank, I assume I would close Petcock on fresh water tank too, after draining much of it first?

Finally should I return the black stem valve blow out plug and get the quick connect instead? I thought the black one would be easy...just put air in it like a tire valve stem. No?

Cheers!

Wendy


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Old 09-08-2015, 07:50 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger C H View Post

Try sailing where every line (rope to landlubbers) has a name.
Or sailing where every line is called a "sheet." (Very confusing to the lady of the house)
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:52 PM   #24
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There are a few different types of quick connects or couplers. For example all my compressors and air tools have the "A" type. Others are designated by a letter like "S" or "M". Don't exactly remember as I don't use them.
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:15 AM   #25
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Paul, this is the blow out plug I purchased. Is it similar to yours? I would have no idea how to remove baffles if it does, but would you please let us know how it goes for you?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Bras...-Plug/23529548


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Old 09-09-2015, 08:17 AM   #26
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I use a fitting that I put together myself that my compressor quick connect hose clips onto. Allows for me to go around the trailer and open/shut the various waterlines/valves at will.

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Old 09-09-2015, 04:45 PM   #27
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Yeah..you could open either just as long as they're opened, it doesnt matter in which order...or I've never done it in any certain order.

One thing good about a disconnect, you can attach the hose and not have to hold it on the adapter like airing up a bicyle. Obviously, you cant do both at one time- hold the air nozzle on the adapter and open the water faucets on the inside. But again, WATCH YOUR AIR PRESSURE. For me, I let the wife do the valve opening so I could stand outside and keep a watch on the gauges. Dont forget to drain your black/grey tanks when you're finished!

When I drain ANY of my tanks, I always make sure I close the drain valves. On the water heater, make sure the pressure relief valve is closed as well. I always open mine when I'm draining my tank to help the water run out faster.

Just as a final tip, you might want to browse over to Youtube and search for some clips on draining tanks, winterizing etc. I always do that when I'm tackling a new task.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
Hi Darral thank you. That all makes sense. So I open the cold first and then the hot faucet after? And when I do this in outside, so I guess I'd want somebody standing at sink noticing when the water blowing out becomes minimal right?

Also, just like you said to leave drain plug in hot water tank, I assume I would close Petcock on fresh water tank too, after draining much of it first?

Finally should I return the black stem valve blow out plug and get the quick connect instead? I thought the black one would be easy...just put air in it like a tire valve stem. No?

Cheers!

Wendy


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Old 09-11-2015, 03:26 PM   #28
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The Walmart model of plug in the photo "appears" to have a standard Schroeder valve under the valve cover. If so, that would restrict the air flow too much for proper pressure to remove the water from your lines. There is a special tool to remove valve stems, it might be easiest to stop at a tire store to have them remove the stem, it screws out.


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