Camco RV Blow Out Plug

[CampyTime]

I get great ideas here and just read about this, so I bought one for next year. I already winterized before buying it.

I have a little walmart air compressor, but it's not oil-less as the directions indicate on the camco package. Not sure I get it...do oiled compressors always blow out traces of oil in use, or is this just running the risk of if the compressor blows up, it'll blow oil down your lines?

The blow out plug was cheap, but I'll be bummed if I can't use it. I know little compressors are cheap at harbor freight, but I don't want to buy a new one for this as all I ever do is blow up tires and/or other simple jobs such as this.

As always, cheers!

Wendy


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[Darral T.]

Does the compressor have a regulator/oiler/water trap on it? Some compressors have the oilers to keep tools like grinders and other air tools oiled. I dont have one on mine (it's not a Walmart). But I do have a water trap to protect moisture from coming through the line.

I will say this, IF oil is coming through, DO NOT use it to blow your water lines out. One is, HEALTH...especially if you drink the water. Another thing is, if you get oil in your water lines, it will be VERY difficult to get it removed...if you can get it removed. Never heard of it happening so you would have to Google it to see.

My preferred method of winterizing on my 13' Scamp:
1) Make sure you drain all the tanks INCLUDING the water heater and waste tanks.
2) Make SURE your water heater is in "bypass" mode.
3) Put a gallon of (I use -50 Camco Artic Ban) *edited* RV antifreeze into the fresh tank. Turn on the pump and I turn on the bathroom faucet first then the shower head. I run the "drain" pump as well as it will add antifreeze to the drain system. I run this in the toilet. I do the kitchen sink faucet as well.
4) I also winterize the "Hot" water lines by opening the hot water valve at both sinks; put my finger over the faucet; turn on the cold water and it will literally push antifreeze into the hot water lines and back to the water heater. Again, I do the same at the bathroom sink.
5) This will take exactly 1 gallon...or always has for me. Then, with the water pump off, I go outside at the "city " inlet, press on the little button up in the inlet (1-way valve) and the pressure that is left in the system will shoot out the remaining water there and I usually see a little antifreeze.
6) Then you can drain your tanks again. I've done it both ways. But one thing for sure, if you dont drain the gray tank, you will have about 3/4 gal of antifreeze sitting there protecting the valve.

Almost 6 years and not one problem. I have blown the lines out first, but with the method I just described it isnt absolutely necessary.

[Ian G.]

The key to blowing out water lines is a large volume of air at a lower pressure. You need enough volume to force the water out, most small compressors are very low volume with higher pressure, so a small or tank-less compressor will not work. You may find the a good vacuum cleaner connected to "blow" will work better than a small compressor. Here is the process I use http://www.proud-canadian.com/making...v-water-lines/

[Roger C H]

I hope that they make and you use the PINK antifreeze. Regular automotive antifreeze is POISONOUS. Be sure to only use the pink made for potable water systems.

All we have to clear is the drain line for the sink. I use a small, dedicated plunger.

[Darral T.]

You're exactly right-- *RV* Anti-freeze regardless the brand!! Thanks Roger.

I also corrected my original post- while Peak DOES make RV Antifreeze, I actually checked my stash and I use what our local Ace Hardware runs on sale- Camco Artic Ban. -50 deg rating.

Originally Posted by Roger C H

I hope that they make and you use the PINK antifreeze. Regular automotive antifreeze is POISONOUS. Be sure to only use the pink made for potable water systems.

[Roger C H]

Thanks Darral. We always have to aware that newbies read these posts and we have to be specific where there is a chance of misunderstanding. The biggest problem when getting into a new field of endeavor is to learn all the 'common knowledge.'

Try sailing where every line (rope to landlubbers) has a name.

[Darral T.]

I'm not sure if you're referring to "small" compressors with or without tanks, but I use a small 3 gal tank, oil less compressor wih no problems. Just make SURE the pressure is NOT set over 40-50lbs or you could blow some internal hoses!! The actual safest way to me...is the RV antifreeze.

Harbor Freight makes the same compressor I have. But mine is actually the Sears "Evolv" brand. I only gave about $59 for it. From this URL, it looks like they've grown very fond of the little nugget! The Sears DOES come with the little air nailer- works well too.

Sears: Sears.com

Harbor Freight: Pancake Air Compressor - 3 Gallon, 100 PSI

Originally Posted by Ian G.

The key to blowing out water lines is a large volume of air at a lower pressure. You need enough volume to force the water out, most small compressors are very low volume with higher pressure, so a small or tank-less compressor will not work. You may find the a good vacuum cleaner connected to "blow" will work better than a small compressor. Here is the process I use http://www.proud-canadian.com/making...v-water-lines/

[CampyTime]

No it does not Darral. It's just a cheapo Campbell Hausfield. Maybe 120 psi max.


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[Ian G.]

Originally Posted by Darral T.

I'm not sure if you're referring to "small" compressors with or without tanks, but I use a small 3 gal tank, oil less compressor wih no problems. Just make SURE the pressure is NOT set over 40-50lbs or you could blow some internal hoses!! The actual safest way to me...is the RV antifreeze.

The key is you need to sustain an airflow for enough time to purge the water from the lines, in your case 3 gallons has proven to be enough whereas in another trailer the lines my be longer or the line are installed where a larger volume of air is needed to completely purge the water from the lines. Another consideration is your climate, I notice you are in Tennessee where it does not get the sustained cold weather we experience in western Canada. The important point is that the air volume has to be enough to purge all the water from the lines, also a number of manufacturers recommend limiting air pressure to 30 psi, higher pressures can cause damage to the system.

[Darral T.]

Good point Ian. I see a Boler in your profile pic? But a 19' Escape.... So, I can definitely see where for a larger RV, mine compressor might not be enough. Never tried it so I cant say...and no...we dont have the severe winters as Canada. Thus, is why I wouldnt risk just doing air. I'd do both the air AND RV af.

Originally Posted by Ian G.

The key is you need to sustain an airflow for enough time to purge the water from the lines, in your case 3 gallons has proven to be enough whereas in another trailer the lines my be longer or the line are installed where a larger volume of air is needed to completely purge the water from the lines. Another consideration is your climate, I notice you are in Tennessee where it does not get the sustained cold weather we experience in western Canada. The important point is that the air volume has to be enough to purge all the water from the lines, also a number of manufacturers recommend limiting air pressure to 30 psi, higher pressures can cause damage to the system.

[Jon Vermilye]

Rather than the Camco adapter, which does not have threads, I prefer a homemade adapter that has an air hose connector in the input & a standard hose thread fitting on the other.

The advantage is you don't have to hold a air hose chuck on the adapter like you do with the Camco. Lets you connect a 30 - 40 PSI source to the trailer & go through the various faucets, opening them one at at time to blow out the water. I do the entire process twice waiting a day between to be sure I got all the water. It also allows solo winterizing. I've used air only for the last 3 - 15°F winters with no problems.

[Darral T.]

Camco makes one of those as well. I didnt get it from Home Depot but this is the one I have and it works fine.

Camco Blowout Plug with Quick Connect-36143 - The Home Depot

Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye

Rather than the Camco adapter, which does not have threads, I prefer a homemade adapter that has an air hose connector in the input & a standard hose thread fitting on the other.

The advantage is you don't have to hold a air hose chuck on the adapter like you do with the Camco. Lets you connect a 30 - 40 PSI source to the trailer & go through the various faucets, opening them one at at time to blow out the water. I do the entire process twice waiting a day between to be sure I got all the water. It also allows solo winterizing. I've used air only for the last 3 - 15°F winters with no problems.

[CampyTime]

I'm going to try and find a link to my compressor, if it's still available to see if you folks think it would be ok to use and give it a try next season.


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[CampyTime]

I hope that link works below. That's my compressor. Please let me know if you think it's safe to use with this camco blow out thingie!

Cheers,
Wendy


http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/...FcGRHwodwhYHZA


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[Glenn Baglo]

If not, you could cut it open and use it as a tool box.

[Jack L]

That compressor should work well for this application.

[Darral T.]

Trust me Wendy...that compressor will work fine! FWIW, it IS "oiless".

You have basically the same Scamp I have- Std 13'. My compressor is 3 gal...yours 2. I have PLENTY of air to blow those SMALL water lines clear of water. You're only going to open one water faucet at a time. I would get one of the blowout nozzles that has the quick-disconnect to match your hose. You will find it VERY aggravating if you use the cheaper Camco plastic one that somebody mentioned earlier. I bought one of those first and quickly abandoned it.

Again, make sure you set the pressure where it doesnt go over 30-40lbs!

Originally Posted by CampyTime

I hope that link works below. That's my compressor. Please let me know if you think it's safe to use with this camco blow out thingie!

Cheers,
Wendy


Campbell Hausfeld FP2048 2-Gallon Hot Dog Air Compressor w/ Inflation Kit


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[MarkyVasquez]

On the compressor specs it says oil free.


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[CampyTime]

Oops Darral. I bought the Camco blow out plug with the black plastic valve stem type end. The reason I did that is I have my compressor just set up to blow up tires, like you would find at a gas station. So this one is crummy and I should get quick connect? What makes it aggravating?

Also, now the pita question. I know how to use the compressor, but how do you blow out lines? Just open cold/hot one at a time as you mention at faucet? Do you ensure that fresh water tank drain is open too? What about hot water tank? Should I take drain plug out of that afore I begin too?




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[Darral T.]

Just basically think of the air as your water as it works about the same. As far as the fresh water tank, it will have to be drained. Run the pump to get all the water out of the pump/lines as you can. The pump has a one-way valve so that it can pressurize the lines. So blowing through the lines will NOT clean water out of the water pump/valves.

I would pull the water heater plug and drain it completely but put it back in. Again, just like if you were hooking up water, all the air would go out the drain plug and not pressure the lines to get the water out. Most water heater systems on trailers have a "Winterize" valve on it...make sure it's OPEN just like when you're running water. That way, when you turn on the hot water faucets, the air can push through the tank and into the lines out the faucet...just like the cold side.

For what it's worth, you set the "winterize" valve or "Bypass" valve on the water heater when you're winterizing with RV antifreeze. If you didnt, it would try to pump it into the water heater and you dont want to fill the water heater with 6 gallons of that expensive stuff! Yeowww.

Hope this helps some. Others can chime in. It seems we miss some things or some other posters might make it clearer or have better ideas.

Originally Posted by CampyTime

Oops Darral. I bought the Camco blow out plug with the black plastic valve stem type end. The reason I did that is I have my compressor just set up to blow up tires, like you would find at a gas station. So this one is crummy and I should get quick connect? What makes it aggravating?

Also, now the pita question. I know how to use the compressor, but how do you blow out lines? Just open cold/hot one at a time as you mention at faucet? Do you ensure that fresh water tank drain is open too? What about hot water tank? Should I take drain plug out of that afore I begin too?




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