Check this out NOT Poliglow...Time will tell.. - Page 18 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-06-2011, 09:43 PM   #239
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Name: Gary
Trailer: Fleetwood Jamboree MH
California
Posts: 5
Restoring the finish of an older RV using Red Max Pro:

Materials:
-Red Max Pro (Step 3) Low Maintenance Floor Finish (available at Lowes)
-Bar Keeper’s Friend (powdered)
-TSP (powdered)
-3M scrubbies (white)
-White Microfiber rags
-Latex gloves




Preparing the surface is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be sealed under the Red Max Pro acrylic coating. Start by washing your RV as you normally would, making sure to include the roof, rinsing well from the top down.

Now, you want to remove any and all stains, soiling, oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface of the RV. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into water and then sprinkle Bar Keeper’s Friend on it. Scrub the surface of the RV, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as you go. I used a "flow-thru" brush with a hose to rinse the BKF thoroughly as I went.

The next step is to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining wax on the surface, since wax can cause the Red Max to peel. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and wash the entire RV. You can use a carwash brush, a sponge, a pressure washer…anything you would normally use. Rinse well, and let it dry completely. You should be left with a clean and smooth (although dull) surface. Congrats, the prep-work is now complete!


Now for the easy part. Pour some Red Max Pro (RMP) into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag to about hand-sized, dip into the RMP (trust me, use gloves!), and squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the RV with the wet rag. Don’t try to over-apply; just wet the surface (imagine wiping a layer of dust off with a wet rag). It really doesn’t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in circles; RMP is very thin/watery and you are just trying to “wet” the surface. Work your way all the way around the RV. RMP will dry quickly; before you’ve gone all the way around, it will be dry and you can immediately start on the next coat.

That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, shiny in some places, dull in others…don’t panic. Each additional coat will even it out and start to build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 (or 5) will be the icing on the cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasn’t shined in years, it will be a deeper color as well. Even old. faded, cracked graphics will have a new lease on life! All for about $30 total!

Things (I learned) to keep in mind:

-Don’t use colored microfiber rags unless they have been laundered, as the color may bleed.

-Be careful around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the RMP is very watery and will have a tendency to gather and cause runs. Watch for runs and give them a quick wipe before they start to “set up”.

-Some older, deteriorated graphics may “bleed” color onto the rag. If you noticed any bleeding during the BKF or TSP stage, then do a quick single coat of RMP across the graphics first, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and apply the RMP as per the tutorial.

-After each coat, go around and open/operate all hatches, locks, catches, etc. The acrylic (RMP) coating can sort of “glue” them closed.

-You can also do the window frames and other painted metal areas; in fact, I did my entire Class C cab since, like the rest of my RV, it was also very faded and dull. Came out fantastic!


Part 2: Maintaining the Red Max Pro finish:

Now that your RV looks like it has a new, clear coated paint job, you’ll want to maintain that new finish as long as possible, right? Well, the good news is that it is extremely easy to do so.

Most commonly used car wash soaps will not harm the Red Max Pro finish, so you can wash your RV as you always have. In fact, you’ll probably find that it comes clean much easier than before, as dirt, bugs, and debris seems to “float” right off quite easily. You do want to avoid anything with Ammonia in it, such as some window cleaners, as ammonia will eat into the Red Max Pro (like floor stripper). Waxing is not needed, and in fact I recommend against it, as wax may interfere with “touch-up” coats of Red Max Pro down the road.

After 6 months to a year, if the finish starts to lose it’s shine, just give the RV a good wash job, let dry completely, and then give it a touch-up coat or two of RMP, wiping it on just as you did originally.
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Old 07-09-2011, 06:40 PM   #240
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Trailer: 1977 Triple E Surfside
Posts: 66
Once again this forum has proven invaluable....

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Old 07-09-2011, 07:01 PM   #241
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A couple more pics after the sun came out...Click image for larger version

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Old 07-09-2011, 08:21 PM   #242
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Name: Keith
Trailer: 1973 Boler 1300 (gone) 1985 Bigfoot
Alberta
Posts: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithA View Post
I picked up a gallon of the Zep at Home Depot this past weekend and started on my 85 Bigfoot. Have only finished a bit fo the back (haven't got to the ugly parts like the front or the roof yet) but it seems to work well. Light scrub with scotchbrite and Spray Nine, rinse, let it dry and apply and it it really shines after 3 or 4 coats. I found the floor sealer dries really quick (in our arid climate) so I'm apply to apply multiple coats in fairly quick succession. I'll post some pics as I make some progress.
And here we go:
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trailer3.jpg   trailer4.jpg  

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Old 07-31-2011, 10:45 AM   #243
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Name: Denise
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16
Maine
Posts: 35
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I have got to say that the information found on this forum is EXTREMELY helpful. LOL. I have a 16' Amerigo fiberglass camper and it was very chalky and dull. I was going to use a paste wax and buff (and buff and buff) until I saw this thread. I used the Red Max Floor Finish instead. All I can say is WOW.
I just got back from a week long trip to the Gaspé Peninsula in Quebec, one of the places we stayed was the Carleton sur-Mer campground (beautiful place, surrounded by water) and the roads were wet due to rain..the camper got pretty muddy. The next rainstorm we went through 5 days later..voila..all mud washed right off. And it looks great! Shiny and I'm very happy with it.
I put the Red Max on with a wrung out microfiber cloth, it was fast and easy.
Thanks ever so much for the information!
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Old 07-31-2011, 07:12 PM   #244
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Name: James
Trailer: Uhaul CT-13
Ohio
Posts: 360
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Just checking in on this thread, my Red Max has held up great for over a year, I love it.
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Old 08-10-2011, 11:56 AM   #245
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Name: Andy
Trailer: 1972 13 ft Boler
Manitoba
Posts: 27
Yesterday,was the first day in about the past 3 weeks the Temp & Humidex was reasonable enough to tackle this project.
I Bartendered the trailer and applied 5 coats of Red Max Pro and you guessed it,,,IT LOOKS BETTER THAN NEW !!
Sorry,no pics but trust me she looks shinier than new ! Just like all the pics.above .
Thanks for the Info Folks.It saved me the cost of a Paint Job !
Now to vacume out the interrior and it's off to the Manitoba Rally in about a week...

Andy
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:05 AM   #246
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Name: Chris
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Nova Scotia
Posts: 103
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Had to join the club
4 coats from the blue stripe up
The shine don't lie
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Old 08-28-2011, 12:07 AM   #247
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Name: Normand
Trailer: Trillium 5500 1980
Posts: 121
I've done it!

I got the stripper, the sealer and the wax from Home Depot (Canada).

I followed manufacturer recommendations.

1- Cleaned the dirty and chalky trailer with the stripper. Really very easy and a light 1-1.5 hour scrubbing job. That stripper is fantastic. I've done more than 95% of my 1980 Trillium 5500 with the stripper only. Used 3M green pads. I also used CLR cleaner mainly on some rusty leaks under the belly band.

2- 2 coats as suggested on the gallon of sealer. I waited 30 minutes between each coat. This takes more time to dry. Micro fiber rags. I think that shines comes more rapidly with the sealer and it helps the wax to "stick" to the fiberglass. No runs.Was acceptably shinny even after the first coat of wax and nearly perfect after 2 coats only.

3- 4 coats of wax. Micro fiber rags again.

Looks new!!!

Took about a total of 5-6 hours. The 5500 is an 18+ footer and takes longer to do. Shines like the in the preceding pictures.
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Old 08-31-2011, 04:13 PM   #248
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
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First Coat

I just put the first coat on. Wow Tomorrow 3 more coats.
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Old 09-01-2011, 09:42 AM   #249
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
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Cleaning

Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
I just put the first coat on. Wow Tomorrow 3 more coats.
I would repeat that cleaning is th most important step. I would say after you put the first coat on you feel it looks like enough, already the best shine ever. Just completed the second coat, about 20 minutes.
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Old 09-01-2011, 04:44 PM   #250
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Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
Altho not cheap (about $15) by mail order, might want to consider the official Polyglow applicator (faux chamois over foam on wood block; screws on to painter's extension)even tho you're not using Polyglo. Produces a smooth, even 8" swath. Best to follow all curves. You'd cross your roof radius in a generally vertical path and come right down the side of the trailer. For fore and aft corner radii, you'd hold the pole and mop horizontal. If you're getting by with rags that's fine also.

jack
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Old 09-01-2011, 06:08 PM   #251
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Trailer: 2016 2ndGen Escape19 Prairie Schooner pulled by 2014 Dodge Ram Hemi Sport
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I used the microfiber towels with great results.
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Old 09-01-2011, 06:11 PM   #252
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
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Microfiber towel

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I used the microfiber towels with great results.
I also used a microfiber towel. Picked it up at the Dollar store for $1. Coats 3 and 4 on. A gallon of this stuff is more than enough to do a few rigs.
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