I did my 93 Casita 16 SD a year ago with 4 coats of Red Max. Because of my current situation I wasn't able to use the trailer so it was parked absorbing the Sacramento sun and elements. The outside was covered with baked on dust when I pulled it home. I washed it with car soap using an auto pole brush. I was amazed at how easy it was to wash, about the same effort as when washing shortly after a good wax job. The look of the finish after drying is like a fresh wax job - nice and shiny gelcoat white.
When I bought the Red Max, I purchased both the stripper as well as the #3.
Sam's club sells both wax and stripper. Please don't use ammonia. Use precautions listed on the jugs. I was in the floor business for years. I tried to use high quality floor wax for a lot of things, even waxing my windshield to see if it would repel rain.It does but you have to dilute the wax, not worth the effort. The best use is on floors. In retail stores the wax tended to yellow some in bright light in the front of the store. Light even coats are much better than heavy coats. Runs can be scraped off CAREFULLY with a razor scraper held perpendicular to the surface. This can be followed up with a cloth wetted with wax. Stripping is difficult at best. Stripper has to stand on the wax for a period of time before it starts to work. Don't mix the stripper heavier than the instructions as it tends to ball the wax up. Make sure the stripper doesn't dry before you remove it. Big mess! Try doing small areas and graduating to larger areas as you see how the stripper works. there are different hardnesses for floor wax. Softer wax is generally used in light traffic areas where harder wax in high traffic areas. The harder the wax the more effort in getting a shine but lasts longer. An automotive buffer can be used to "buff" the wax. Most waxes today are made for high speed burnishers usually propane powered machines that cover a lot of area quickly. Buffing a wax job soon after waxing ( a day or longer) will help the wax to cure and harden. Make sure to keep stripping solution off of your skin. Use gloves and wash off any stripper right away if you get it in you. look at the MSDS ( material safety data sheet ). Nothing good in stripper. Take note, Don't dump excess stripper into storm drains or your septic system. All this being said, high quality waxes will make things shiny and last for some time. I still have seceral gallons left and might experiment also.
Paul w
HI
I haven't read all the postings,but in my case there is an almost full size decal of a Puma with her kitten on the nose piece of my Puma by Palomino 5th wheel and the white gelcoat around that decal is very rough and thin.
If I try and use that RED MAX floor wax,I have to strip the nose piece clean before application.There is at least 10 coats of polymer wax that have been applied trying to smooth out that roughness,for washability, without real success.
Have any of you comments or knowledge,about the decal reaction to both the stripping and waxing over decals.
Thanks Pierre
Paul, on what basis do you place your objection to ammonia as a remover of the floor waxes?
Pierre, there are several dozen posts on this thread which describe deteriorated gelcoat as "chalky" or "dull looking." What does "rough" gelcoat look like? The "orange peel" of spray paint? Like adhered dirt or grit? How do you know the gelcoat is thin?
Here's why I ask. The many testimonials here are evidence that the floor waxes improve the appearance of many an old trailer but I can't imagine they can disguise or hide every possible effect of deterioration or every possible defect of manufacturing. Your concern with the durability of vinyl decals exposed to any of these strippers or solvents is justified. You (or a hired specialist) will have to decide if the gelcoat will survive an abrasive cutdown or compounding. You will have to decide if you want to sacrifice the current decal to either abrasive compounding or put it at risk in the removal of the current polymer wax. Only you can decide what to keep and what to throw away. I'd have to know (or see) a bit more of your front panel to know what you're talking about before I'd have a chance of knowing what I'm talking about!
Good evening M.Jack
Like you say, it is either small pits or widely spaced (maybe ¼" to ¾") grits randomly embedded in the gel coat.
As for the thinness of the gelcoat,there are many areas where you can differentiate between quite solid white color and almost transparent white where the pink like color of resin in the back is almost showing trough.
It might be the fruit of my imagination,but I am starting to ask myself if the roughness is not coming from the tip of the glass fibers in the matt that have gone trough the gelcoat while laying up the nose piece.
At any rate I dont want to go trough the replacement of the decals or the nose piece,but I sure want to make it shiny and easy to clean and remove the bugs splatter from.
After all this 5th wheel is only one year old and I did not plan on throwing additionals hundreds of dollars for looks,that it supposed to come with buying new.
I was ready for a one time sort of hard work treatment to alleviate the washing problem.
The treatment with the RED MAX wax ,seemed quite allright,but I have to admit not researching its compatibility with the polymer wax I have already used. May be there is no need to strip that off.
I am looking into that right now.
Thanks
Pierre
Thanks for the clarification Mr. Pierre. Funny how most here would say that you get a green cast thru thin gelcoat. I laid up a few fuel tanks (diesel) when younger. Used fire-retardant resin; it was pink and cured pink. Of course there was no gelcoat on the mold; strictly an article of utility.
As to your problem, I don't see an answer besides cutdown and/or overcoating with something with a lot more body and "build" than RedMax/ZEP or PolyGlo, namely paint. Any possibility of correction of the problem under manufacturer's warranty?
Just want to shout out a big THANK YOU to all who have participated in this thread. I just put 3 coats on my 2002 toyhauler that all previous attempts at waxing had produced almost 0% shine. The Red Max works great, the Lowes in Rapid City, SD has it on clearance at 7.99 a gallon. I used a lint free flour sack I bought a Wally-World for $2, worked great and cheap My 37' 5th wheel only used a little over 1/2 gallon for 3 coats.
I have less than $35 into this project, my materials include everything from rubber gloves, Zep stripper, flour sack cloth (to apply finish), green Scotch-brites, Red Max #3, and some Barkeepers.
I started by using Zep stripper to clean off all the wax and polish I had been trying. Then I cleaned with Barkeepers friend. Cleaned once more with Dawn. Then applied the Red Max. All in all it took about 6-7 hours over 2 days. Very happy with the results.
I started by using Zep stripper to clean off all the wax and polish I had been trying. Then I cleaned with Barkeepers friend. Cleaned once more with Dawn. Then applied the Red Max. All in all it took about 6-7 hours over 2 days. Very happy with the results.
Thanks again
I'm glad you mentioned the zep stripper since you can't get the red maxx anymore
I have thee gallons of red maxx but worried if it runs etc I was worried what I'd do.
Our nestegg or what's left of it
Stage Coach
1993 Scamp 
1993 Scamp 
My 37' 5th wheel only used a little over 1/2 gallon for 3 coats.
Campster
Humpty Dumpty was Pushed
1992 Scamp Side bath
Linear Mode
