Maintenance & Restoration

Thomas G. · 03-07-2013, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Otters

You really should take the wax off before applying the decal. You can just do the area under the decal and then a little was touch-up should do the trick with very light coats.

+1. That 's how I did it. Used ammonia and water locally, installed decal, then re-waxed over the top.

deryk · 03-07-2013, 07:28 PM

So, I'm thinking of trying it on my ParkLiner...I don't think Harry waxed it, the Bar Keeper's friend, is it abrasive? Being a year old Its not oxidising (yet lol) ....so what kind of temps do you need to wax?

deryk

cpaharley2008 · 03-07-2013, 07:45 PM

Deryk,
Do not waste your time, your unit is too new. Just polish it with a good marine wax, RedMaxx and Poliglow are for older units that have dulled. when you use Barkeepers, your are using a rubbing compound, not wise on a new unit.

rabbit · 03-07-2013, 07:45 PM

Derek, you should not need to resort to this "fix" on a 1-2 yr. old trailer. Likewise the BK even though it is not particularly abrasive. I'm a fan of RMP but believe there better choices in protectants and polishes for new gelcoat. Keep what u got, brother, til u don't have it no more.

jack

deryk · 03-07-2013, 08:17 PM

Ok thanks...wasn't sure....will have to look at those over priced marine products lol

Thanks

deryk

Donna D. · 03-07-2013, 09:29 PM

Yeah deryk, you've received good advice. The gelcoat on your trailer isn't shot and RMP and the like is for those problems. YOU GET TO SPEND MORE MONEY THAN THOSE FOLKS!

Truly, Meguires (and the like) makes good products for your "new" trailer and be thankful you don't have the old trailer, chalky problems.

deryk · 03-07-2013, 11:14 PM

Yeah I just need to look around for a reputable reasonable priced wax... so many products with the marine signature are just rape me expensive... will do some google searches... figure in april it should be warm enough to paint my boot stripe...er... bellyband dark hunter green then once dry and cured wash and wax time! Cause it needs it.

deryk

Donna D. · 03-08-2013, 12:05 AM

deryk, I don't think you can ever go wrong with Meguires or Mothers products. Those were the "go to" waxes/polishes here on FiberglassRV before Red Max Pro and Poliglow moved to the forefront.

Of course, those are used for different reasons than keeping a new gelcoat looking good.

ceilityme · 03-08-2013, 12:19 AM

I asked this question months ago, but it never really got answered. My boler had a ton of graffiti and some pretty nasty punctures. I had it fixed and painted by some pros. Now what do I do? Should I apply wax over paint? Shouldn't the paint protect the fiberglass from uv rays? Or do I need to protect the paint to protect the fiberglass? If anyone could give me a wee bit of advice, I'd appreciate it.

David Tilston · 03-08-2013, 01:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ceilityme

I asked this question months ago, but it never really got answered. My boler had a ton of graffiti and some pretty nasty punctures. I had it fixed and painted by some pros. Now what do I do? Should I apply wax over paint? Shouldn't the paint protect the fiberglass from uv rays? Or do I need to protect the paint to protect the fiberglass? If anyone could give me a wee bit of advice, I'd appreciate it.

What was it painted with? If a two part paint, (epoxy) it is essentially like having a new layer of gel coat. Each type of paint will have different maintenance instructions.

ceilityme · 03-08-2013, 01:44 AM

It's an automotive paint... if there's such a thing. the same paint you'd paint a car. I was under the impression gel paint was a much thicker coating.

deryk · 03-08-2013, 04:06 AM

Gel coat on fiberglass is very thin, its sprayed on the mould before they lay the cloth into it. I would wax it. People wax car's for the same reason (lol I don't but I want my ParkLiner shiny lol)

deryk

rabbit · 03-08-2013, 09:23 AM

Jude, IMO the short answer is No, we should not attempt to protect or improve appearance of automotive paint with polymer floor wax.

jack

Thomas G. · 03-08-2013, 11:05 AM

As Suzy Orman sez - Denied!

rabbit · 03-08-2013, 12:32 PM

I could use STP as hair pomade. It would keep my hair in place. I don't. There are accepted products formulated to overcoat, protect, and restore the appearance of automotive paint just as there are similar preparations for fiberglass gelcoat. When the conventional solution fails to produce a reasonable benefit ratio against cost of product and time/effort, it's time to look for unconventional solutions; not before.

I'm not a chemist and I don't play one on this forum. There are questions of compatibility (Will it stick?) and reversibility (Is it difficult to remove if necessary?) which apply to any overcoat on any surface or over another "finish." There is at least one frequent contributor here who has applied RMPro to automotive finishes and to thermoformed plastic fenders, rocker panels, etc. and is happy with the results. About a month back, another member here and fellow Burro owner stated that, in his experience, attempting to remove RMP or similar from a painted finish with ammonia created a streaked mess on the lower portions of a painted trailer.

ALL endorsements AND condemnations of unconventional solutions for familiar problems need to be taken with a block of salt. In Jude's case I believe it prudent to "try in an inconspicuous area" or, better still, on a disposable item such as an orphaned or junked fender, tailgate.

Jack