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Old 06-29-2013, 12:09 PM   #621
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Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
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Roof of our trailer was oxidized and dull. Vertical surfaces were still reflective. I scrubbed the entire trailer with BK with emphasis on slightly cutting down the rough roof surface and removing stains elsewhere. I made no attempt whatsoever to roughen surfaces where reflectivity remained and I observe that doing so would take more time than you'd be willing to spend using only BK as an abrasive. The weathering of the Red Max Pro wax has exactly duplicated the previous weathering. No loss on vertical surfaces; noticeable loss on horizontal. I don't believe creating "tooth" on a gelcoat surface to encourage mechanical cohesion of the wax overcoat is necessary. Removal of loose material, dirt, and chemical residues is absolutely recommended by everyone including me.

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Old 06-29-2013, 12:11 PM   #622
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I used their cleaner on my unit and also some BK Friend. The trailer was mostly dull. It didn't matter if there was still some shinny spots as far as it went. After a good cleaning I put 5 coats on and it shinned like a new one.
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Old 07-01-2013, 01:39 PM   #623
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Trailer: Scamp
Georgia
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buffed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark G. View Post
I made a post 6 months ago about my "Test Spot" with some floor stuff. The test spot still looks great.

After reading this thread I went out and bought a gallon of Red Max Pro.

All I can say is this stuff is shockingly good. The shine is unbelievable. I have a 1998 16' Scamp Deluxe.

After the first coat I wasn't sure but as you add coats it evens out. I have 2 coats on one side and 3 on the other so far. I think 4 coats will do it.

Nothing I have done has worked as well as this.

I'm very happy.
Does this stuff have to be buffed? OR does it dry to the wonderful shine I see?
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Old 07-01-2013, 01:42 PM   #624
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No buffing, it dries to a shine!!
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Old 07-01-2013, 02:53 PM   #625
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It just comes into it's own at the 4th coat, put on a 5th one for the Gipper....

There are specific instructions for how to buff on the container but, unless you have a lot of foot traffic on the roof and walls, you shouldn't need to ever buff.



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Old 07-05-2013, 01:49 PM   #626
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Trailer: 2007 uhaul ct13
Quebec
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anyone tried more common household products like the ones our moms were using, like baking soda and vinegar to clean their eggs? i'm always amazed how well it works when my wife take our the baking soda to clean tough stains on dishes..
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Old 07-05-2013, 02:14 PM   #627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
It just comes into it's own at the 4th coat, put on a 5th one for the Gipper....

There are specific instructions for how to buff on the container but, unless you have a lot of foot traffic on the roof and walls, you shouldn't need to ever buff.

..........
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:02 PM   #628
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Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
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RedMaxPro redo at 26 months

Beautiful calm, clear, cool weather here past two days so I stripped the roof down to the radius with walls, washed and TSPd walls and ends and recoated 5 coats. Pix below. You can see the ghost in the machine.

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Attached Thumbnails
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DSC_6038.jpg   DSC_6029.jpg  

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Old 08-15-2013, 06:39 PM   #629
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
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Between last year and this year I noticed a tiny amount of "less white" effect after using the RedMax. Not yellowed and not really noticeable except that I removed a little caulk that had been put on after cleaning but before RedMax applied. Could see a slight color difference between the area covered by caulk and adjacent area with RedMax.

Going to keep using it, am very satisfied. May end up using the stripper and doing a fresh coat next year. Or not. shiny it still is master Luke.
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:21 PM   #630
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Indiana
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Fyi

Just a heads up on the red Maxx ZEP Poly Glo finish. If you try to clean with Super Clean (the Purple stuff) it is a very good finish stripper at least down to 3to 1 dilution. tried to remove some black streaks which it did very well but removed the floor wax also. compounding the issue is before i got it rinsed off the runs cut through the lower finish leaving "clean" lines. I think the red maxx picks up extremely fine dust and you can't tell it as it is a uniform color until the finish is removed. I had the same issue with Poly
Glo. I have a white painted trailer which may make the difference more noticeable. Will likely completely strip and start over later but I'm off to Michigan Thursday so no time, I'll just throw a coat of nano wax on and call it good for the time being.
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:05 PM   #631
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Name: Fred
Trailer: KEYSTONE PASSPORT
Tennessee
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Questions about use of Zep on 2011 Keystone

The front end of my 2011 Keystone Passport (White Fiberglass siding) has suffered oxidizing from the afternoon sun. The other 3 sides are still like new but the front end has experienced peeling of the decals and dullness. I tried waxing but it just doesn't bring the same look. This has been very disappointing since its only 3 years old and I have washed and waxed twice a year. (Purchased in 2010)

Questions:

1- can I use the Zep finish on this type of siding? I ask because I have read several folks referring to the use of this product with older RV's and maybe thats just because mine has just oxidized prematurely?

2- Since I only need to do 1 side, will this outshine the other 3 sides? as I stated previously, the other 3 side are nearly as shiny as the day I bought it.

3- Will the BKF knock off the shine where I have removed the decals in order to prevent ghosting, if not could someone recommend a solution to that?
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Old 09-08-2013, 06:49 AM   #632
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Fred, I'm sorry I can't help you... I know nothing about the way your trailer is built. You've landed on a forum focused on all molded towables. Our trailers are built like boats, not flat panels and seams.

While we may be able to give you some advice, I respectfully suggest you try a forum that is dedicted to your brand: Keystone RV Forums - The Best Resourse Forum for Keystone RV Owners

Best of luck!
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:40 PM   #633
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Name: Bruce
Trailer: Jayco Eagle
South Carolina
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Redmax, Holloway, Polyglo, and others

I have read with great interest the threads on this post. On our last trip, we went through a Bug Vortex, and picked up some nasty splatter that stained the fiberglass cap of my Jayco 5th wheel. After repeated washing, the splatter stains were still there. I tried several cleaners, such as Krud Kutter and Simple Green, and even tried Bar Keepers Friend--all which proved to be ineffective. I read several threads where people cleaned the FG with a mixture of soap, bleach, and HD cleaner. I decided I'd try a mold cleaner, and used Zep Mold and Mildew Stain Remover. The stains disappeared almost instantly, with little scrubbing required. My cap was in bad shape, so I used Zep on the entire cap. I was worried about decals, so as soon as I sprayed, I wiped off any that hit the decals. Zep did the trick, but my cap still needed some sort of treatment to bring back the gelcoat shine. After reading these posts, I decided to give Holloways a try (I wanted Redmax Pro 3, but couldn't find it in our Lowes or Home Depot). I am so amazed at the results! My cap now looks better than a new 5W, and I'll use this treatment on the rest of the 5W. The Zep Mold cleaner instantly removed any black streaks on some spots on the side, and also works great on window seal mold spots. Here's several photos that show the difference. Thanks to all who have contributed to this post; I now have a 5W that shines better than when we bought it! (looks like the photos post as "after", "before", and "mold removal difference". I would suggest trying a small test spot before using the products listed, and use safe handling procedures.
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cap after.JPG   cap before.JPG  

window seal mold.JPG  
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:40 PM   #634
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Trailer: 13' Scamp
California
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Newer Scamp with dull areas.

I've got a 2011 Scamp that I purchased a few months ago. It was stored outside and has a few dull spots that were blasted by the elements. There are other spots that have a nice smooth and shiny surface. So my question is should I go ahead perform the entire process with the BKF and Zep wet look all over my Scamp? Or is there something else I could do?
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:57 AM   #635
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Trailer: 1989 Burro
Tennessee
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Great looking shine! I've been told that Poli Glo doesn't protect from UV rays and will yellow over time. Does this product address UV on the label?
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:12 AM   #636
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Trailer: 1989 Burro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkrueger View Post
I've got a 2011 Scamp that I purchased a few months ago. It was stored outside and has a few dull spots that were blasted by the elements. There are other spots that have a nice smooth and shiny surface. So my question is should I go ahead perform the entire process with the BKF and Zep wet look all over my Scamp? Or is there something else I could do?
The folks at Poli Glow told me that "Awesome Cleaner" and BKF were great for preparing the surface for Poli Glow. Awesome can be purchased at Dollar General.
After cleaning use a hose to spray the trailer and watch for "fish eyes." The water should cascade in sheets over the entire surface. If you see the water split and go around an area (fish eye) then that area contains oils/minerals/solvents and requires more cleaning. Poli Glow won't adhere to fish eye areas so those area will remain dull.
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:19 PM   #637
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Trailer: 13' Scamp
California
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I have a 2011 13' scamp that I recently purchased. The previous owner had it shipped from Backus and stored it outside for two years. There were a few spots that still had a good shine while others were chalky. Rather than try to blend it I just decided to treat the entire thing. Just like everyone else, I started with cleaning it with soapy water (a few drops of Dawn with warm water), then scrubbed it down with Bar Keeper's Friend (used a textured cloth typically used to scrub bugs off cars so as not to scratch anything). Rinsed thoroughly and applied 5 coats of Zep (poured the Zep in a bucket and ringed out the micro-fiber cloth). The chalky sections are now shiny and the shiny parts are even shinier. If your Scamp is already shiny and you store it in the garage or some type of shelter, then it's probably not necessary to apply any Zep. It's the prolonged exposure to the elements (sun and rain) that take the shine away. If it's stored outside without a cover it will eventually lose it's shine no matter how it's treated. I've attached before and after pictures. Don't mind the smaller tires on the after picture, I use those to get the Scamp in the garage. :-)


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Before (still has some shine)

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After (shinier than before)

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After
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Old 10-05-2013, 03:18 PM   #638
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Hey everyone! We're trying to get her poliglowed before the snow flies and as we've been scraping silly cone, I lost my mind! Now, suddenly, I can't remember if we should wax and then reseal with butyl or butyl and then wax. Please confirm that we should wax first. Thanks!
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Old 10-05-2013, 03:56 PM   #639
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Butyl first, then wax. What are you sealing?
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:05 PM   #640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Butyl first, then wax. What are you sealing?
We were going to put a thin bead around each window and the vents for AC, refrigerator, and heater. Oh, and the belly band. Not a good idea?
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