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Old 09-07-2013, 08:05 PM   #631
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Name: Fred
Trailer: KEYSTONE PASSPORT
Tennessee
Posts: 1
Questions about use of Zep on 2011 Keystone

The front end of my 2011 Keystone Passport (White Fiberglass siding) has suffered oxidizing from the afternoon sun. The other 3 sides are still like new but the front end has experienced peeling of the decals and dullness. I tried waxing but it just doesn't bring the same look. This has been very disappointing since its only 3 years old and I have washed and waxed twice a year. (Purchased in 2010)

Questions:

1- can I use the Zep finish on this type of siding? I ask because I have read several folks referring to the use of this product with older RV's and maybe thats just because mine has just oxidized prematurely?

2- Since I only need to do 1 side, will this outshine the other 3 sides? as I stated previously, the other 3 side are nearly as shiny as the day I bought it.

3- Will the BKF knock off the shine where I have removed the decals in order to prevent ghosting, if not could someone recommend a solution to that?
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Old 09-08-2013, 06:49 AM   #632
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
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Fred, I'm sorry I can't help you... I know nothing about the way your trailer is built. You've landed on a forum focused on all molded towables. Our trailers are built like boats, not flat panels and seams.

While we may be able to give you some advice, I respectfully suggest you try a forum that is dedicted to your brand: Keystone RV Forums - The Best Resourse Forum for Keystone RV Owners

Best of luck!
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:40 PM   #633
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Name: Bruce
Trailer: Jayco Eagle
South Carolina
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Redmax, Holloway, Polyglo, and others

I have read with great interest the threads on this post. On our last trip, we went through a Bug Vortex, and picked up some nasty splatter that stained the fiberglass cap of my Jayco 5th wheel. After repeated washing, the splatter stains were still there. I tried several cleaners, such as Krud Kutter and Simple Green, and even tried Bar Keepers Friend--all which proved to be ineffective. I read several threads where people cleaned the FG with a mixture of soap, bleach, and HD cleaner. I decided I'd try a mold cleaner, and used Zep Mold and Mildew Stain Remover. The stains disappeared almost instantly, with little scrubbing required. My cap was in bad shape, so I used Zep on the entire cap. I was worried about decals, so as soon as I sprayed, I wiped off any that hit the decals. Zep did the trick, but my cap still needed some sort of treatment to bring back the gelcoat shine. After reading these posts, I decided to give Holloways a try (I wanted Redmax Pro 3, but couldn't find it in our Lowes or Home Depot). I am so amazed at the results! My cap now looks better than a new 5W, and I'll use this treatment on the rest of the 5W. The Zep Mold cleaner instantly removed any black streaks on some spots on the side, and also works great on window seal mold spots. Here's several photos that show the difference. Thanks to all who have contributed to this post; I now have a 5W that shines better than when we bought it! (looks like the photos post as "after", "before", and "mold removal difference". I would suggest trying a small test spot before using the products listed, and use safe handling procedures.
Attached Thumbnails
cap after.JPG   cap before.JPG  

window seal mold.JPG  
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:40 PM   #634
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Name: Mike
Trailer: 13' Scamp
California
Posts: 35
Newer Scamp with dull areas.

I've got a 2011 Scamp that I purchased a few months ago. It was stored outside and has a few dull spots that were blasted by the elements. There are other spots that have a nice smooth and shiny surface. So my question is should I go ahead perform the entire process with the BKF and Zep wet look all over my Scamp? Or is there something else I could do?
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Old 09-28-2013, 05:57 AM   #635
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Name: Don
Trailer: 1989 Burro
Tennessee
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Great looking shine! I've been told that Poli Glo doesn't protect from UV rays and will yellow over time. Does this product address UV on the label?
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:12 AM   #636
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Name: Don
Trailer: 1989 Burro
Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkrueger View Post
I've got a 2011 Scamp that I purchased a few months ago. It was stored outside and has a few dull spots that were blasted by the elements. There are other spots that have a nice smooth and shiny surface. So my question is should I go ahead perform the entire process with the BKF and Zep wet look all over my Scamp? Or is there something else I could do?
The folks at Poli Glow told me that "Awesome Cleaner" and BKF were great for preparing the surface for Poli Glow. Awesome can be purchased at Dollar General.
After cleaning use a hose to spray the trailer and watch for "fish eyes." The water should cascade in sheets over the entire surface. If you see the water split and go around an area (fish eye) then that area contains oils/minerals/solvents and requires more cleaning. Poli Glow won't adhere to fish eye areas so those area will remain dull.
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:19 PM   #637
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Name: Mike
Trailer: 13' Scamp
California
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I have a 2011 13' scamp that I recently purchased. The previous owner had it shipped from Backus and stored it outside for two years. There were a few spots that still had a good shine while others were chalky. Rather than try to blend it I just decided to treat the entire thing. Just like everyone else, I started with cleaning it with soapy water (a few drops of Dawn with warm water), then scrubbed it down with Bar Keeper's Friend (used a textured cloth typically used to scrub bugs off cars so as not to scratch anything). Rinsed thoroughly and applied 5 coats of Zep (poured the Zep in a bucket and ringed out the micro-fiber cloth). The chalky sections are now shiny and the shiny parts are even shinier. If your Scamp is already shiny and you store it in the garage or some type of shelter, then it's probably not necessary to apply any Zep. It's the prolonged exposure to the elements (sun and rain) that take the shine away. If it's stored outside without a cover it will eventually lose it's shine no matter how it's treated. I've attached before and after pictures. Don't mind the smaller tires on the after picture, I use those to get the Scamp in the garage. :-)


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After
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Old 10-05-2013, 03:18 PM   #638
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Name: Steve and Rosemary
Trailer: 89 Scamp 16 ft side toilet
Utah
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Hey everyone! We're trying to get her poliglowed before the snow flies and as we've been scraping silly cone, I lost my mind! Now, suddenly, I can't remember if we should wax and then reseal with butyl or butyl and then wax. Please confirm that we should wax first. Thanks!
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Old 10-05-2013, 03:56 PM   #639
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
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Butyl first, then wax. What are you sealing?
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:05 PM   #640
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Name: Steve and Rosemary
Trailer: 89 Scamp 16 ft side toilet
Utah
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Butyl first, then wax. What are you sealing?
We were going to put a thin bead around each window and the vents for AC, refrigerator, and heater. Oh, and the belly band. Not a good idea?
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Old 10-05-2013, 06:45 PM   #641
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
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What you're looking for is a caulk. Butyl is sticky... like bubble gum and it doesn't "flow." I might put a caulk around the vents, but I believe in not just blobbing stuff over the top of old caulk and would NEVER put it around windows. The belly band caulk is for aesthetic purposes and keeps dust, dirt, twigs, general grim, moss and mold from sticking between the body and the belly band. It's not used to seal anything. If you need the belly band to seal something, you've got a bigger problem than caulk can fix.

I'd clean off all the old caulk around the top of the belly band, use blue painters tape on the body and the top of the belly band leaving just a small area for the caulk to flow... then use this: Proflex caulking sealer

Hope this helps and others may have more suggestions.
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Old 10-06-2013, 08:25 PM   #642
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Name: Steve and Rosemary
Trailer: 89 Scamp 16 ft side toilet
Utah
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Thanks for your advice, Donna. He wanted to put caulk around the windows, vents, and belly band but after trying it out, he realized that it was going to undo a lot of the cleaning we had done over... SEVERAL ... days. The good news is we got most of the old silicone and caulk off of her. The other good news is we scrubbed and scrubbed her so most of the hard water and rust stains are no more. We used Bar Keepers Friend and several green scrubbies. BKF tends to start to stick if you let it dry on there so we washed her off really good and then worked together to scrub her down a final time while rinsing her more quickly. After that, he took a big scrub brush and dipped it in some water/bleach/soap and scrubbed her again. I took a spray bottle with bleach and used a toothbrush to do some spot cleaning.

The challenges we had were mostly associated with water dripping down the old windows and vents, leaving potentially staining runs. We decided to prevent this by drying her off with clean towels. The windows tend to hold water and run longer than anything else so while she was air drying, we continued to circle her and wipe any water away.

Once we were satisfied with how dry she was, we applied 6+ coats of the floor wax and WOW! She looks like someone else's trailer -- so shiny and bright and white! After applying the wax, we sat out there cleaning up and marveled at how amazing she looks. She still has some cracks and some stains and some silicone (we can still scrape this off) but she looks wonderful and WAY better than she did yesterday. Or the day we got her, for that matter.

For the future and for others embarking on this adventure:
1. I bought two sponges for wax application. One sponge was covered in microfiber cloth and one was covered in a shamois type material. The microfiber worked wonders and the other was a fail, leaving streaks and runs. I know it's been said before (and I should have just listened to the advice) but I'll say it again: MICROFIBER IT!
2. Bar Keeper's Friend is amazing. Yes, you still need to scrub away at stains but it really, really works. We managed to get pain, grease, oil, and even some silicone/caulk residue/clumps off with just BKF and green scratchy scrubber things. Use it. And when you're done with your egg, you can use it in your kitchen and bathroom.
3. Bleach works but not really well. I used it on the front of her where there was a lot of black grease and other dirt. I sprayed it on and then spread it around with a clean cloth. Again, she doesn't look brand new, but the white really came out and I'm pleased as punch.

I think that's it for now but if I think of any other lessons we learned, I'll follow up later. We still have silicone and caulk to remove but we can scrape that off any time in the future. It's a tedious job and my hands are stiff from the last two days of it. I was going to post before and after pics but TRUST ME AND EVERYONE ELSE -- you'll start with a flat, dull, chalky white trailer and end up with one that's bright and shiny! It was very much worth the effort.
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:03 PM   #643
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Name: Donna D
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Originally Posted by Steve and Rosemary View Post
........but TRUST ME AND EVERYONE ELSE -- you'll start with a flat, dull, chalky white trailer and end up with one that's bright and shiny! It was very much worth the effort.
Seems I read this a lot.
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Old 11-05-2013, 07:18 AM   #644
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Name: Eric
Trailer: Travel Supreme
Florida
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Randy, regarding the RedMaxPro several years later....how has it held up? I want to try it on a fifth wheel. Thanks
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