Check this out NOT Poliglow...Time will tell.. - Page 7 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-13-2010, 07:12 PM   #85
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Name: Jesse
Trailer: 1984 Scamp 13'
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Is that an "H" on the window? All three of my windows had an "H" on them. There were a few other stickers (NRA, American flag) so I thought it was something a previous owner had put on.
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Old 09-13-2010, 07:13 PM   #86
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I just went to Hehr's website, and that was in fact their logo... so at least I know the brand.
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Old 09-13-2010, 07:23 PM   #87
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Mine is a black sticker with goldish printing that says Hehr. It's pretty faded after 22 years but still there. Hehr has been in business for years and years. They make windows for school buses, etc.
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Old 09-14-2010, 09:33 AM   #88
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Originally Posted by mcbrew View Post
Interesting... The open part of the window is on the door side of the Scamp. I think the window is putnin correctly, but might just be a different model. I say this because 1) the screen is on the inside like it should be and 2) because I notices drain slots on the outside at the bottom of the frame where water can drain out. If it were in upside down, they slots would be at the top, which wouldn't make sense, right? Again, there are screws around the inside frame as well as the rivets on the outside.

When I get home, I will check to see if the is any manufacturer info on the windows. Anybody know what was originally in there?
Mark I'm probable wrong about the upside down part. but as Donna has pointed out it is a bit strange to see the rivets on any of the windows other than the door and to see the slider on the opposite side which would indicate its in backwards. You may want to call Scamp and ask them if that was something they did in the year yours was built.
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Old 09-14-2010, 09:41 AM   #89
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I thought the screen would be on the outside of a slider window Otherwise, wouldn't you have to move the screen to get to the sliding part to open and close it?
Raya, Mark is correct the screens on the Scamps are all on the inside. They are seperate from the window panel and are held in place with springs and do not move when you slide the actual window open.
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Old 09-14-2010, 10:19 AM   #90
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Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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Okay, I'm trying to visualize this. If the screen is on the inside, and it does not move, then how do you get a grip on the window panel you are trying to slide open? Wouldn't it then be behind the screen when the window was closed and thus un-grabbable? Does the window somehow slide out from *behind* the screen through a channel that is "muffled" by weatherstripping or something

I keep thinking that the sliding pane would have to close in front of the screen (thereby leaving the screen on the outside) so that you could reach it to slide it back and forth.

I grew up with "double hung" windows (in houses), which are kind of like sliders on their sides, and I always liked the fact that the screens *were* on the outsides, because that way you did not trap whining mosquitoes in them when you closed them.

I'll have to go look around for photos now, or this is going to keep nagging at me. I'm sure there is something obvious I am missing, since I am a jalousie gal.

As you can tell, it drives me nuts when I can't visualize how something works!
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Old 09-14-2010, 11:04 AM   #91
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[QUOTE=Raya L.;223294]Okay, I'm trying to visualize this. If the screen is on the inside, and it does not move, then how do you get a grip on the window panel you are trying to slide open? Wouldn't it then be behind the screen when the window was closed and thus un-grabbable? Does the window somehow slide out from *behind* the screen through a channel that is "muffled" by weatherstripping or something
QUOTE]

You are correct the window and the screen sit in separate channels built into the window frame - the screen sits in the inside channel and the window is in the channel behided it. The window has a handle in the middle of its inside edge that is not covered by the screen which allows it to be opened without touching the screen.
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Old 09-14-2010, 11:28 AM   #92
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Thanks, Carol. Now I can think about something else
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:07 AM   #93
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I just wanted to post that RedMax Pro is the best stuff I have used on hardwood floors.

With the extra I had left I did the kitchen floor. All I can say is, WOW!
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:31 AM   #94
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Interesting... doesn't it say not to use on wood floors?
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:41 AM   #95
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Says "not recommended". Still looks great.
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:20 PM   #96
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Says "not recommended". Still looks great.
What will you use when you have to take it off, water and stripper can damage your floor. That is why they make a wax just for wood. I would not recommend this type of wax for wood or any floor that water can not be used on. That recommendation is back by 40 years of experience in this field.
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Old 09-18-2010, 07:30 AM   #97
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Well sorry it took awhile to get back with everyone, but the TIRE CLEANER at the car wash "DID" remove the poli-glow from my Trillium now I've got to go back and re-coat it with the Pro-Max...I was wanting to see how the 2 different products stood-up over the long haul but I'm not paying another $75 for more poli-glow...One thing I can do is just refinish from the belly band down because I only removed that area of finish..(If it don't look funny I'm going to try that).....That way I can see for myself which product stands up the best...I'll keep everyone informed as I work on this experiment I figure by next Fall I should know how they compare....
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Old 09-18-2010, 08:33 AM   #98
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So, can RedMax be used on the inside fiberglass benches and cabinets? Has anybody tried?
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