Check this out NOT Poliglow...Time will tell..

[Randy Bishop]

I'm really glad everyone is having such good results with it and so far very little feed back on any problems..Mine's been on now a little over a year and I couldn't be more pleased with the product.. The stuff make's washing it a breeze...............

[Donna D.]

@Jack... ow, ow, ow... my EYEs. Wooshie that thing is shiny

[Meghan]

All these shiny trailers make me REALLY want to get working in mine!!! I have the supplies, just need the time. Can't wait to get some stuff done!!! Lots of plans!!!

[rabbit]

If contemplating the plunge to floor wax, look back at Randy Bishop's pic of the Polyglow applicator in a very early post on this thread. It isn't cheap at 15$ but I'd say it's worth the cost to apply a very even coating. Polyglow recommends that it be washed out in water (and I used some Dawn liquid detergent), wrung out, and bagged airtight until it comes into play again for that annual recoat. I bagged mine and put it in the fridge; I hope it doesn't develop mold.

I like the slight "bronzy" color cast of the wax as against chalk white oxidized gel coat. Also seems to have made gel coat repairs and, dare I say it, expedient rattle can coverups disappear.

jack

[Sheryl]

Originally Posted by rabbit

If contemplating the plunge to floor wax, look back at Randy Bishop's pic of the Polyglow applicator in a very early post on this thread. It isn't cheap at 15$ but I'd say it's worth the cost to apply a very even coating. Polyglow recommends that it be washed out in water (and I used some Dawn liquid detergent), wrung out, and bagged airtight until it comes into play again for that annual recoat. I bagged mine and put it in the fridge; I hope it doesn't develop mold.

I like the slight "bronzy" color cast of the wax as against chalk white oxidized gel coat. Also seems to have made gel coat repairs and, dare I say it, expedient rattle can coverups disappear.

jack

Could you put it in the freezer instead?

[rabbit]

Originally Posted by Sheryl

Could you put it in the freezer instead?

Duuh, I wish I'd thought of that. Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

jack

[Mark V.]

I have a varied assortment of un-washed latex paint brushes in my freezer already! Every now and then I'll throw them all out 'cause they'll dry out eventually.

[IanWR]

Words of wisdom from a self confessed fool.

Make sure that your beast is a clean as it can possibly be and then clean it some more. The floor finish product seems to magnify every little (and large) blemish and stain.

Do not get greedy and try to do more than avery thin coat - if you get a run that you don't remove immediately then the next coat will solidify it not dissolve it.

Use an applicator that never drips - a cloth will do but make sure that it is folded so that a loose edge does not slop floor finish all over the egg.

These are things that I have learned - the hard way.

FGRV forums (or fora) are a truly wonderful resource.

Cheers

[ceilityme]

Has anyone applied Redmax over paint? If so, automotive, marine, spray paint or otherwise. My boler has some graffiti on it, done with a marker, and I'd also like to change the colour and/or apply a design. Any thoughts? Thanks

[cpaharley2008]

The RedMaxx works over decals so it should work over paint. Magic marker, I'd test someplace, it may come off unless you can seal it first. There is a Red Maxx #2 sealer that is part of the 3 part RedMaxx series with #3 used by everyone here. Possibly the #2 can seal the marker and then apply #3.

[rabbit]

Yes, it works fine over "rattle can" touchup and fortunately masked the contrast of an ill-chosen white of very bluish cast on my Burro in progress.

Parenthetically, for those contemplating purist gel coat repairs, I have this advice. Be wary about Evercoat gel coat sold at marine stores. It cooks off damn skippy catalyzed to Evercoat's schedule and does same with MEKperoxide reduced to a quarter of the recommended amount. I threw away nearly thirty bucks on a pint of their gel coat and a bottle of PVA mold release to allow curing. You can speculate that I may have screwed up (and that's quite possible) but I had five yrs. of spraying gel coat in molds and hand layup back in the day (mid-70s) so I have just a wisp of experience and judgment of the stuff in question. This is the long way around to explain the spray paint over a bad patch of delaminated gel coat filled and faired in with body filler.

jack

[KeithA]

I picked up a gallon of the Zep at Home Depot this past weekend and started on my 85 Bigfoot. Have only finished a bit fo the back (haven't got to the ugly parts like the front or the roof yet) but it seems to work well. Light scrub with scotchbrite and Spray Nine, rinse, let it dry and apply and it it really shines after 3 or 4 coats. I found the floor sealer dries really quick (in our arid climate) so I'm apply to apply multiple coats in fairly quick succession. I'll post some pics as I make some progress.

[Gary in SoCal]

Hello! First time poster here at Fiberglassrv.com, and even though I own a class C motorhome rather than a fiberglass trailer, I wanted to share with you all my experience with Red Max Pro, as well as ask a few questions.

My motorhome was extremely weathered even when I bought it nearly 10 years ago. I had tried every type of wax, polish, gelcoat restorer, oxidation remover that I could find. Most did nothing other than lighten my wallet and give me a sore back & arms. A few gave so-so results that lasted a few weeks at best.

Then I heard about Red Max Pro through a thread on RV.net, and they had a link to this thread. Well, I was excited, to say the least. After 1 full day doing the prep (scrubbing the MH with Bar Keepers Friend, followed by a wash using TSP), I applied 4 coats of Red Max Pro (RMP) and WOW!!!! It has now been 3 months, in the hot SoCal summer sun, with a few thundershowers thrown in. It still looks fantastic. Here are some before (on the left) and after (on the right) pics. BTW, my painted metal cab was also in very bad shape, so it got the RMP treatment as well. Came out great! The whole coach shines like new, and it actually brought back the color that was so washed-out before.









Thanks to you all here at fiberglassrv.com, there was alot of info and discussion on Red Max Pro that helped convince me to take the plunge. Again, thank you.

So here are my questions. What have you all been using to wash your trailers now, that doesn't harm the Red Max? Have any of you noticed any yellowing, or any other "downside" to Red Max Pro?

[Randy Bishop]

Originally Posted by Gary in SoCal

Hello! First time poster here at Fiberglassrv.com, and even though I own a class C motorhome rather than a fiberglass trailer, I wanted to share with you all my experience with Red Max Pro, as well as ask a few questions.
Then I heard about Red Max Pro through a thread on RV.net, and they had a link to this thread. Well, I was excited, to say the least. After 1 full day doing the prep (scrubbing the MH with Bar Keepers Friend, followed by a wash using TSP), I applied 4 coats of Red Max Pro (RMP) and WOW!!!!

So here are my questions. What have you all been using to wash your trailers now, that doesn't harm the Red Max? Have any of you noticed any yellowing, or any other "downside" to Red Max Pro?

I wash mine at the neighborhood carwash with no harm to the REDMAX just make sure you "ONLY" use the wash and rinse cycle and "NOT" the tire cleaner or presoak soap..On one of mine I used the tire cleaner soap cycle and it just about stripped the whole thing, after it dried and I saw how bad it had stripped the finish off I went back soaked it again this time scrubber it a little in the hard to get places, then rinsed it and the remainder of the finish came off ..The next day reapplied 4 coats and looks as good as before..Don't know if the pre-soak soap will do the same I just didn't want to take any chances from now on..You will see later on that when it gets dirty the REDMAX makes washing you camper a dream most dirt will just wash off with plain water with very little scrubbing at all..HOPE THIS HELPS RANDY

[Gary in SoCal]

Randy, thanks for the reply. I, too, had heard somewhere about the "tire cleaner" at car washes being a no-no. I've also heard that Windex with ammonia is bad; makes sense since ammonia is used to strip floors.

I've only washed mine twice since I applied the Red Max, both times with water only (first time just hosed off) since I was scared to use any soap for fear that it might dull the Red Max. But after 3 months, I'm very happy; it's already outlasted anything I had previously tried. A number of people have now reported that most normal carwash soaps are safe to use on the RMP.

One final question for you. You've now had the Red Max Pro on for nearly a year. How has it held up? Any downside?

[Randy Bishop]

I haven't had one problem with it and 3 of mine have been through several snows this past winter which is VERY unusual for this part of the country, several days with the temperature's well over the mid 90's setting on a concrete slab baking and the humity around 98% with "NO" problems what so ever..I have heard that someone in Florida had a yellowing issue but he's the only one that has mention that and I know there are several people using the product now. I've been waiting to hear any problems people may have had but so far no one has spoke up with any issues..If there "were" any problems I really think this thread would have been bombarded with "ANY" dissatisfaction results they would have had..That's the great thing about this place if it works people post it if it "DON'T" work they post that also..there are very few shy people on here......

[Gary in SoCal]

Yes, in fact, it's earlier in this thread that the person from Florida claimed the problem with yellowing (rvrideout, on 4-29-11, page 14). What I found interesting about that was the fact that she joined this site 2 days prior to posting, posted just that one time, and then never posted again, in this thread nor any other. Kinda curious?

I know that before I took the plunge and used Red Max on my RV, I read everything that Google could find on it. We all know that complaints about products and businesses run rampant online; if there was any real negatives to using Red Max Pro on RVs, there would be plenty of online complaints. I was impressed with the fact that the only negative I found in all my research was that one post by rvrideout. Not only that, I actually found one very similar claim about "Poly-Glow" on a different site. I also found a claim by someone in the floor finishing business who stated that there is competition in that field and that yellowing is a thing of the past with today's floor finish products.

In any case, I'm a current believer in the stuff. I'll continue to watch for any negative results, but really don't expect any. With all of the research I did on it, reading how others have applied it, and also what I learned from my own application, I put together a kind-of step by step tutorial on the process that a number of users on the RV.net site have complimented me on. If you think it would be welcome, I can post it here as well, though I don't want to overstep my "place" here.

[Randy Bishop]

Originally Posted by Gary in SoCal

Yes, in fact, it's earlier in this thread that the person from Florida claimed the problem with yellowing (rvrideout, on 4-29-11, page 14). What I found interesting about that was the fact that she joined this site 2 days prior to posting, posted just that one time, and then never posted again, in this thread nor any other. Kinda curious?

I know that before I took the plunge and used Red Max on my RV, I read everything that Google could find on it. We all know that complaints about products and businesses run rampant online; if there was any real negatives to using Red Max Pro on RVs, there would be plenty of online complaints. I was impressed with the fact that the only negative I found in all my research was that one post by rvrideout. Not only that, I actually found one very similar claim about "Poly-Glow" on a different site. I also found a claim by someone in the floor finishing business who stated that there is competition in that field and that yellowing is a thing of the past with today's floor finish products.

In any case, I'm a current believer in the stuff. I'll continue to watch for any negative results, but really don't expect any. With all of the research I did on it, reading how others have applied it, and also what I learned from my own application, I put together a kind-of step by step tutorial on the process that a number of users on the RV.net site have complimented me on. If you think it would be welcome, I can post it here as well, though I don't want to overstep my "place" here.

I believe it would be added bonus mayself and if any of the mod's think it shouldn't be here they will deal with it in their own way..So I say post it I would love to see how you did yours, I've done 5 so far and working on another one that even though I'm going to have to paint it because it was previously painted I'm going to still coat it with the REDMAX because it helps sooooo much when it comes to washing it...

[Gary in SoCal]

Restoring the finish of an older RV using Red Max Pro:

Materials:
-Red Max Pro (Step 3) Low Maintenance Floor Finish (available at Lowes)
-Bar Keeper’s Friend (powdered)
-TSP (powdered)
-3M scrubbies (white)
-White Microfiber rags
-Latex gloves

Preparing the surface is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be sealed under the Red Max Pro acrylic coating. Start by washing your RV as you normally would, making sure to include the roof, rinsing well from the top down.

Now, you want to remove any and all stains, soiling, oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface of the RV. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into water and then sprinkle Bar Keeper’s Friend on it. Scrub the surface of the RV, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as you go. I used a "flow-thru" brush with a hose to rinse the BKF thoroughly as I went.

The next step is to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining wax on the surface, since wax can cause the Red Max to peel. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and wash the entire RV. You can use a carwash brush, a sponge, a pressure washer…anything you would normally use. Rinse well, and let it dry completely. You should be left with a clean and smooth (although dull) surface. Congrats, the prep-work is now complete!


Now for the easy part. Pour some Red Max Pro (RMP) into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag to about hand-sized, dip into the RMP (trust me, use gloves!), and squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the RV with the wet rag. Don’t try to over-apply; just wet the surface (imagine wiping a layer of dust off with a wet rag). It really doesn’t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in circles; RMP is very thin/watery and you are just trying to “wet” the surface. Work your way all the way around the RV. RMP will dry quickly; before you’ve gone all the way around, it will be dry and you can immediately start on the next coat.

That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, shiny in some places, dull in others…don’t panic. Each additional coat will even it out and start to build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 (or 5) will be the icing on the cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasn’t shined in years, it will be a deeper color as well. Even old. faded, cracked graphics will have a new lease on life! All for about $30 total!

Things (I learned) to keep in mind:

-Don’t use colored microfiber rags unless they have been laundered, as the color may bleed.

-Be careful around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the RMP is very watery and will have a tendency to gather and cause runs. Watch for runs and give them a quick wipe before they start to “set up”.

-Some older, deteriorated graphics may “bleed” color onto the rag. If you noticed any bleeding during the BKF or TSP stage, then do a quick single coat of RMP across the graphics first, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and apply the RMP as per the tutorial.

-After each coat, go around and open/operate all hatches, locks, catches, etc. The acrylic (RMP) coating can sort of “glue” them closed.

-You can also do the window frames and other painted metal areas; in fact, I did my entire Class C cab since, like the rest of my RV, it was also very faded and dull. Came out fantastic!


Part 2: Maintaining the Red Max Pro finish:

Now that your RV looks like it has a new, clear coated paint job, you’ll want to maintain that new finish as long as possible, right? Well, the good news is that it is extremely easy to do so.

Most commonly used car wash soaps will not harm the Red Max Pro finish, so you can wash your RV as you always have. In fact, you’ll probably find that it comes clean much easier than before, as dirt, bugs, and debris seems to “float” right off quite easily. You do want to avoid anything with Ammonia in it, such as some window cleaners, as ammonia will eat into the Red Max Pro (like floor stripper). Waxing is not needed, and in fact I recommend against it, as wax may interfere with “touch-up” coats of Red Max Pro down the road.

After 6 months to a year, if the finish starts to lose it’s shine, just give the RV a good wash job, let dry completely, and then give it a touch-up coat or two of RMP, wiping it on just as you did originally.

[Shelley]

Once again this forum has proven invaluable....