Converters - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-24-2003, 04:27 PM   #15
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Steve-I am glad to hear the actual fantastical fan readings. I guess that on low, even with the dropping resistor, it still uses less power than on high.

One ($$) solution is to get a dual marine voltage regulator with dual outputs, running one to the house battery and one to the truck battery; then the alternator/regulator isn't fooled by differring voltages of the dissimiliarly discharged batteries and you can get the full alternator output into the more depleted battery.

Pete and Rats
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Old 04-24-2003, 08:20 PM   #16
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charge dilema

Hi again Joe, I charge my rv battery directly off my truck along with my truck battery. After reading the posts lately, I happened to be at a Walmart asked the mechanical manager for his ideas and suggested that i should use an isolator in the system. He said that because of the heavier plates in the rv battery you should trickle charge it to full charge which is fine if I used it one day a week and spent the rest of the time charging it. So I am doing as you said and relying on my alternator to do the charging in about 8 hrs. whilst I drive. With a trickle system I would always have to be charging the battery and never having it full!!! I don`t know what is the worst of the two evils. I don`t know how the big boys trickle charge with a number of 6 v deep cycles in series parallel hook up.They must never have the time to get them to full charge...So I think this requires more research...or else just forget it and fast charge........Benny
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Old 04-24-2003, 10:33 PM   #17
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converter

Suz:

Check out:

http://www.progressivedyn.com/_frames/fram...converters.html

Good stuff! :)
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Old 04-28-2003, 07:54 AM   #18
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to Suz

Hi Suz- check your existing unit...I suspect it might be a magnetek 6300 series converter. If so, CW offers a (plug-in) 7345 electronic charging section upgrade from parallax power- parent company of magnetek. The unit is advertised as quieter, more efficient and offers 'cleaner' DC power for appliances. It is not cheap at $250 or so but probably easiercheaper than a complete converter swap. Perhaps our electrical engineers can weigh in on this.
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Old 04-28-2003, 08:36 AM   #19
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Converter

Thanks, Phil. I'll check into that. I hope to get to a CW in the next week or so...I'll talk to them about it. I'll also check with them on the recommendation about using a gel battery with it.

I'll go out and see what I've got now.....
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Old 04-28-2003, 10:52 AM   #20
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Magnatek?

Phil -I believe you are correct about which converter I have even though I do not see 'Magnatek' on it. The only thing I see is B-K industries and that is on the front of the panel where the circuit switches and fuses are located. The back is hard for me to get to at the moment.

It is a series 6300A, 32A (which explains the model being a 6332) with options CNH.

One thing this did help me with: a concern that I had about overcharging the battery when I left it plugged in during the summer months for Air Conditioner use. Loosely quoted it says that with the C option (when plugged into 110) it will charge the battery until it is full. Then it senses when it's full and switches to a maintenance mode until it senses that the power is low again and will switch back on.

I had read so much about overcharging and ruining batteries that I was concerned about it, so that makes me feel better.

I think I'm making progress here.

Thanks.
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