Cost of axle

[Lizbeth]

Dexter "Complete Service Manual" page 68;
http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/1080235/f/...anual_3-11.pdf

Dexter Torflex Application .pdf;
http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/Trail...tion_12-10.pdf

[Greg H]

There may be no service to the axle itself, but the bearings need to be maintained and maybe even the seals on the hub if they exist.

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Greg H

There may be no service to the axle itself, but the bearings need to be maintained and maybe even the seals on the hub if they exist.

My ignorance is showing...
We are talking wheel bearings, right?
I hope there aren't any others.
I've got Bearing Buddies on mine- I keep them well topped up with grease.
And I do mean I do it.
My husband is of the " if-a-little-is-good-a-lot-must-be-much-gooder " persuasion.
He hasn't been permitted near the trailer with a grease gun since he gave the ol' gun a few extra pumps and blew the seals, filling the brakes with grease.
If anyone wants to know how to replace the entire brake assembly, feel free to ask. I'll have him write an essay on the subject when (IF) he gets out of the doghouse.

Francesca

[Greg H]

Yes I'm talking wheel bearings.

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Lizbeth

Dexter "Complete Service Manual" page 68;
http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/1080235/f/...anual_3-11.pdf

Dexter Torflex Application .pdf;
http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/Trail...tion_12-10.pdf

Thanks, Lizbeth!
Maybe this'll help me understand how the whole thing works...

Onward Through the Fog

Francesca

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Bruce H

Reference my above post, here is the official response copied and pasted from the e-mail I received from Dexter:

"There is no set time limit on the axle. As long as the axle has not been
overloaded and has been maintained it should last the life of the trailer.
Inside tire wear would be an indicator that the axle might need replaced."

Thanks, Bruce

I'll be watching tire wear

I thought it might be useful to add this response to yours. It's also from Dexter, and is in answer to a question on another site about how, if at all, one can replace the spindles without a whole-axle job. I found the description of the differences in torsion-type suspensions helpful, since part of my confusion has been that other t.b.s. systems have replaceable components. But apparently not the Dexter!

Here's the quote, as lifted (swiped?) from the site-that-shall-remain-nameless:

"Quote:
Originally Posted by ******* View Post

AXLES - Can I buy just a spindle?"

Q:
"I don't see a way to replace these spindles, but it was dark, cold and windy so I probably missed something. Axle is a Dexter torsion axle either 6 or 7k pound capacity. Can these be replaced without buying a whole new axle?"

A: (from Dexter)
"It is against our policy to sell loose spindles for axles. The installation, alignment, and welding of the spindles is the most critical operation in the manufacture of axles. It requires sophisticated alignment fixtures and precision welding to insure the proper attachment. The only recourse is to obtain a new axle beam. On a sprung type axle, this is the tube, spindle, and spring seat. On a Torflex axle, this is the tube, inner bar, rubber suspension, spindle, and bracket assembly.
In my experience, if a Torflex axle is bent, it's more than likely not the spindle. It's the parts and peices in the axle housing."

Dang! "No user-seviceable parts inside"!

Francesca

[Greg H]

Well they are in the axle business, not the axle parts business that way they can sell you a whole new axle.

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Greg H

Well they are in the axle business, not the axle parts business that way they can sell you a whole new axle.

Boyoboy you said a mouthful that time, all right.

Here's a torsion axle you CAN service and repair. Flexiride®

A bit from their website:
"UCF Flexiride Advantages:
Durability: The cartridge construction offers superior resistance to abrasive road elements, increasing the life and durability of the axle.
Smooth ride and longer life: The high quality rubber guarantees a smoother ride and longer life.
Safer and stronger: The specially engineered one piece forged spindle arm creates a system which is safer and stronger than any welded unit.
Adjustable: The splined spindle arm is adjustable for a range of starting angles to suit special applications.
Easy replacement:Unlike welded systems the Flexiride® spindle arm can be removed easily for repair or replacement.
Quick installation: The axle assembly requires only four bolts to mount reducing installation time.
Delivery: Built-to-suit axle system reduces lead times and inventory.
Warranty: UCF offers a five year warranty on Flexiride® components.
Independent wheel action: Soft, quiet, practically shock-free ride."

It's probably more expensive initially, but I'm going this route if I ever need a replacement. If they can fit one to the trailer, that is. If I can avoid it I won't own something that can't be serviced and/or repaired.
Per their five year warranty: did I read in here someplace that Dexter's new-axle warranty is only a year?

If anybody out there owns the Flexiride axle, I'd sure like to hear how it's performing.

Francesca

[Greg H]

Now that sounds like the right axle to use, where did you find that? and how come nobody else has mentioned them?

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Greg H

Now that sounds like the right axle to use, where did you find that? and how come nobody else has mentioned them?

I was Googling around, trying to figure out if the factory installed axle on my 77 Trillium is the same sorry throwaway Dexter is selling now. I came across a forum (don't ask me which one) where somebody was trying to figure out how-or if- THEIR Dexter could be repaired. The Flexiride came up in the responses.
That baby's got Francesca's New Axle written all over it!

Francesca

[Greg H]

I don't want to replace my axle, but I'm pretty sure it's the original '72 axle it rides low (which I think is cool) and there's no life left in it. Now it's good to see that we have an option.

[Francesca Knowles]

Truth be told, I'm not sure I even need a replacement. It doesn't bottom out- I think- and tire wear looks even. It's more that it seems sort of flabby- lots of wiggles if somebody's walking around, and possibly a greater tendency to sway than should be there.
Even worse, though: we've had to give up on carrying actual graham crackers for the s'mores in favor of the chewier cookies. This due to the fact that the graham crackers leave home as crackers and arrive in camp as crumbs, apparently because of a "shocking" ride enroute.
Now THERE'S a crisis worth spending our hard-earned money on .

Francesca

[LukeP]

I've tried to find somebody local that can install Flexride, and to no avail so far. Everything about them seems impressive. From what I've found for online quotes, they're a bit more than a comparable Dexter, but not outrageous. It was recommended that I look at them by another forum member, for my Boler American (which need a slightly different size than the Boler Canadians)

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by LukeP

I've tried to find somebody local that can install Flexride, and to no avail so far. Everything about them seems impressive. From what I've found for online quotes, they're a bit more than a comparable Dexter, but not outrageous. It was recommended that I look at them by another forum member, for my Boler American (which need a slightly different size than the Boler Canadians)

KEEP US POSTED!!!
PLEASE!!!


Francesca

[Joe in MN]

Just a note about Scamp suspension - when replacing wheels on my new-to-me-last-fall 1988, the tires came off the ground almost the very moment that I touched the jack handle, so I'm assuming there's practically no spring left in the rubber suspension. This may be as good a way as any to assess the amount of life left in the suspension? Jack it up and see how long the tire stays on the ground as the frame rises?

Took her out a number of times last year and she pulled just fine, although things did get shaken up a bit in there en route if I didn't stow everything 100%. (Curtains and curtain rods all over the place, the odd cabinet door with a loose latch flying open, etc.)

I think there may be a trip in my near future to the Scamp factory in Backus, MN for a new axle (and brakes and hubs while I'm at it, I get the impression that pretty much everything on the trailer is original apart from what I've replaced myself.) Fortunately Backus is right between me and a whole bunch of northern MN camping. Anybody have any experience with having the Scamp folks installing axles?

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Joe in MN

Just a note about Scamp suspension - when replacing wheels on my new-to-me-last-fall 1988, the tires came off the ground almost the very moment that I touched the jack handle, so I'm assuming there's practically no spring left in the rubber suspension. This may be as good a way as any to assess the amount of life left in the suspension? Jack it up and see how long the tire stays on the ground as the frame rises?

I wondered about that, too, only- I had it figured the other way around???? I'm left handed, so I get things backwards a LOT- I thought the tires staying on the ground longer would be the bad sign- like things were too flabby or something. You've got the jack under the axle, right? What if I jacked the whole hind end up, both wheels off the ground? Anything I could look for there?

Thanks!

Francesca

[Joe in MN]

Well, this is what I'm thinking, but I could easily be wrong - if the rubber is still springy, the weight of the trailer would be compressing the suspension somewhat all the time while sitting, and when the trailer was jacked up, the tires would stay on the ground for a bit until that "static compression" was taken out by jacking.

Think of it in reverse - if the trailer was suspended in the air and you gently set it down, the tires should rise up into the wheel wells a bit as the suspension compresses. This isn't happening in my case when I reverse the process, tires come off the ground IMMEDIATELY. There may in fact be some spring left between the resting position and the going-over-a-bump position (which is where you really want it), but I think my scenario means not a lot of springiness left anywhere.

I jack at the frame just ahead of the axle, which I believe is where Scamp recommends jacking. ($30 bottle jack from Northern Tool plus a Sears jack stand and chocks for safety - works really well for me so far.) I doubt that jacking up both wheels would tell you anything that one at a time wouldn't tell you, and it might stress the frame more - from what I've read, you have to watch how you jack Scamps up, as you can put stress in places where the frame isn't happy about it. On the frame, right next to the axle, preferably in front of it, and one side at a time is the best way, I think.

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Joe in MN

Well, this is what I'm thinking, but I could easily be wrong - if the rubber is still springy, the weight of the trailer would be compressing the suspension somewhat all the time while sitting, and when the trailer was jacked up, the tires would stay on the ground for a bit until that "static compression" was taken out by jacking.

Think of it in reverse - if the trailer was suspended in the air and you gently set it down, the tires should rise up into the wheel wells a bit as the suspension compresses. This isn't happening in my case when I reverse the process, tires come off the ground IMMEDIATELY. There may in fact be some spring left between the resting position and the going-over-a-bump position (which is where you really want it), but I think my scenario means not a lot of springiness left anywhere.

I jack at the frame just ahead of the axle, which I believe is where Scamp recommends jacking. ($30 bottle jack from Northern Tool plus a Sears jack stand and chocks for safety - works really well for me so far.) I doubt that jacking up both wheels would tell you anything that one at a time wouldn't tell you, and it might stress the frame more - from what I've read, you have to watch how you jack Scamps up, as you can put stress in places where the frame isn't happy about it. On the frame, right next to the axle, preferably in front of it, and one side at a time is the best way, I think.

Well, it sounds like my suspension is in better shape than I thought- I've been thinking that it's a little TOO springy.
Of course, mine's a Trillium- they could be a bit different I suppose, though they have (I think) the same axles.
Do you know anything about the Flexiride axle we were talking about earlier in this thread? I'd like to hear from somebody who's used one...

Francesca

[Carol H]

Joe great observation re the jacking up. Twist ties on the curtain rods will solve that on going problem - good or bad axel. :-)

[Joe in MN]

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

Do you know anything about the Flexiride axle we were talking about earlier in this thread? I'd like to hear from somebody who's used one...

Francesca

Not a thing, sorry, I'm still trying to figure out the one that came with my trailer. Switching axles is something that I have no clue about, so my own personal plan will be to take the easy way out and just let the Scamp people worry about all that at replacement time. I'd be afraid of running into compatibility issues. (This is coming from the guy who, although not technically challenged, can't come out of Northern Tool with two tires the same size, but that's another story.) That Flexiride does sound like a cool axle, though.