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04-21-2011, 05:14 PM
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#61
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Junior Member
Name: Joe
Trailer: Scamp 16 - floor plan #4
Minnesota
Posts: 27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
Twist ties on the curtain rods will solve that on going problem - good or bad axel. :-)
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Good idea, thank you!
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04-28-2011, 07:49 PM
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#63
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Member
Name: Rick
Trailer: 1981 Scamp "Huevo Ranchero"
Virginia
Posts: 39
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04-28-2011, 07:52 PM
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#64
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Indiana
Posts: 1,557
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That's a good price, has anybody measured the frame width yet?
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04-28-2011, 08:12 PM
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#66
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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I'd be nervous about that 2000 lb weight rating, given the way we all pack our trailers to the gunnels-
Does it come any beefier?
Francesca
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04-28-2011, 08:19 PM
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#67
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Indiana
Posts: 1,557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles
I'd be nervous about that 2000 lb weight rating, given the way we all pack our trailers to the gunnels-
Does it come any beefier?
Francesca
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Yes, check out the site way down at the bottom of the page I saw heavier ones .
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04-28-2011, 08:25 PM
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#68
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Member
Name: Rick
Trailer: 1981 Scamp "Huevo Ranchero"
Virginia
Posts: 39
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But if you bump up the rating too much it will ride like a solid axle (suspension too stiff). According to one website I saw, the standard axle Scamp is using right now is a 2200-pounder.
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04-28-2011, 08:37 PM
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#69
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Senior Member
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,669
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Is that true for the 13 and the 16 footer?
Joe's got a 16- doesn't that weigh almost 1800 lbs before options?
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04-30-2011, 04:36 PM
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#70
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Member
Name: Rick
Trailer: 1981 Scamp "Huevo Ranchero"
Virginia
Posts: 39
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Axle data for Scamp 13
FWIW, here's the data I've gathered after calling the Scamp factory and Northern Tool
1981 Scamp 13
Measured frame width: 48 inches
Scamp trailers: 1-800-346-4962
Replacement axle offered w/4-lug hub no brakes
$310
$100 shipping
Dexter
2200lb
b/w brackets 45 3/4 inches
outside to outside 49 3/4 inches
22.5 degree down angle
hub face-to-hub face: 63"
Dexter part number: 9TF22
*********************
Northern Tool: 1-800-221-0516 (Molly)
Local Northern Tool: (757) 825-3210
hub face-to-hub face" 62"
50 frame width
45 degree down angle
2000 lb capacity
66 3/4 overall
Part#: 129285
Price:229.99
Hub assembly: 4 lug w/brakes
1 inch bearings
1250lb capability per hub
Part#: 57204
Price: 29.99 each
Upshot is I can get an axle with brakes, free shipping for $300 from Northern Tool (shipped to a local store for my pickup). From Scamp, I get a no-brake axle delivered to my door for an additional $100. A local iron works I called says all torsion axles are made in one or two places and he hasn't seen any quality differences to speak of.
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04-30-2011, 04:40 PM
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#71
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Indiana
Posts: 1,557
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But in English, will it work? I see some minor length differences, a half inch or so on my Boler would just about rub the outside wheel well.
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04-30-2011, 06:55 PM
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#72
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piscator
But if you bump up the rating too much it will ride like a solid axle (suspension too stiff). According to one website I saw, the standard axle Scamp is using right now is a 2200-pounder.
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I've talked to the Dexter Engineers about this topic. Essentially, we do not run empty like a box trailer ... then fully loaded. We've carry a variable 4-500 LB load ... head for the top end of wieght or preferrably middle and we should ride the sweet end of the spectrum.
That is we are loading the trailer at the specs the axle is designed for. According to the engineer I spoke with, overrating your axle a few hundred pounds will not make a great difference in ride, yet may may give you a few extra years to ride within specs.
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04-30-2011, 07:01 PM
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#73
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg H
But in English, will it work? I see some minor length differences, a half inch or so on my Boler would just about rub the outside wheel well.
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Greg,
You have a boler American, the streetside wheelwell is inset (or outset depending on your point of view?) by about an inch to allow for the furnace. Check my axle swap post to understand what I'm talking about. Not everybody with a regular "boler" will see this.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post168305
Let me know if you need clarification.
Roy
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04-30-2011, 07:12 PM
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#74
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Indiana
Posts: 1,557
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But I don't and never had the furnace. Maybe they were all built to hold a furnace, I don't know but I guess I should do some measuring.
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05-04-2011, 10:29 AM
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#75
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Senior Member
Name: Rod
Trailer: 2014 GWV Trillium Sidekick 1500
British Columbia
Posts: 195
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Bent Axel?
Hello,
I hope my question here is not going to hijack this thread, I just wasn't sure if it warranted a whole new thread, so here it is:
While inspecting the underside of my Trillium 1300 I noticed a very slight vertical bend in the metal bar that runs across the underside of the trailer between the two wheel mounts/axels. The bend is on the door side of the trailer. I examined it for an impact mark to see if it was bent due to hitting something, but from what I could see there was no scratches or dents in the metal and not even in the paint (the trailer sat indoor on blocks for about 25 years and had about 95% tread on the original tires). My questions are:
1. Is this normal?
2. If it is not normal what are the chances that it is causing the wheels to not be rotating "true"? I just towed the trailer for about 5,000 KMs to California and back and it doesn't seem to be wobbling or bouncing. Is there a test I can do?
The way the bar/axel has the bend I would expect it to cause the tire on that side to wear un-evenly due to the change in the pressure being appied between the gropund and tire, but this doesn't seem to be the case so I am hoping that it is normal or an adjustment made at the factory. Should i take this to an axel shop for inspection? I can post a photo if it helps the experts understand what it looks like. Thanks!
~Rod
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05-05-2011, 05:11 AM
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#76
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2007 19 ft Escape 5.0 / 2002 GMC (1973 Boler project)
Posts: 4,148
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Hi: Rodre... That bend, if it's the axle tube, is normal!!! That's what keeps the tires tracking true. It sets the camber of the tires otherwise they wouldn't wear evenly!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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05-05-2011, 09:57 AM
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#77
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Senior Member
Name: Rod
Trailer: 2014 GWV Trillium Sidekick 1500
British Columbia
Posts: 195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alf S.
Hi: Rodre... That bend, if it's the axle tube, is normal!!! That's what keeps the tires tracking true. It sets the camber of the tires otherwise they wouldn't wear evenly!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Is the bend normally not centered? The bend in mine is way on the door side of the trailer.
~Rodre
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05-05-2011, 12:04 PM
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#78
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Indiana
Posts: 1,557
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Mine is in the center.
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05-05-2011, 12:06 PM
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#79
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Senior Member
Name: Rod
Trailer: 2014 GWV Trillium Sidekick 1500
British Columbia
Posts: 195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg H
Mine is in the center.
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Hi Greg,
Are you rolling a Boler or a Trillium? Can any late 70's Trillium owners state the postion of the factory bend in their axel? Cheers!
~Rodre
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05-05-2011, 12:10 PM
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#80
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Indiana
Posts: 1,557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodre
Hi Greg,
Are you rolling a Boler or a Trillium? Can any late 70's Trillium owners state the postion of the factory bend in their axel? Cheers!
~Rodre
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Hey Rod, I wasn't paying attention, I have a Boler American.
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