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Old 04-21-2011, 05:14 PM   #61
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Name: Joe
Trailer: Scamp 16 - floor plan #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Twist ties on the curtain rods will solve that on going problem - good or bad axel. :-)
Good idea, thank you!
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:47 PM   #62
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Trailer: 1981 Scamp "Huevo Ranchero"
Virginia
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Check out these "replacement units" from Northern Tool. I have a Northern Tool local to me--I think I'll check them out.

Reliable Rubber Torsion Axle Suspension Units | Rubber Torsion Axle Suspension Units | Northern Tool + Equipment
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:49 PM   #63
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Getting closer:

Reliable Rubber Torsion Axle for Snowmobile Trailer — 2000-Lb. Capacity, 45° Below Start Angle | Axle Kits | Northern Tool + Equipment
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:52 PM   #64
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That's a good price, has anybody measured the frame width yet?
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:57 PM   #65
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Virginia
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Okay--Here's their brake kit that can be added to any of their torsion axles. They've got axles in 20, 30, and 45-degree drops, plus a variety of frame widths. Anybody know the frame width of the Scamp? I'm not close to the trailer at the moment.

Reliable Electric Brakes — 7in., Pair | Drum Brakes | Northern Tool + Equipment
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:12 PM   #66
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I'd be nervous about that 2000 lb weight rating, given the way we all pack our trailers to the gunnels-
Does it come any beefier?

Francesca
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:19 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
I'd be nervous about that 2000 lb weight rating, given the way we all pack our trailers to the gunnels-
Does it come any beefier?

Francesca
Yes, check out the site way down at the bottom of the page I saw heavier ones.
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:25 PM   #68
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Virginia
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But if you bump up the rating too much it will ride like a solid axle (suspension too stiff). According to one website I saw, the standard axle Scamp is using right now is a 2200-pounder.
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:37 PM   #69
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Is that true for the 13 and the 16 footer?
Joe's got a 16- doesn't that weigh almost 1800 lbs before options?
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:36 PM   #70
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Trailer: 1981 Scamp "Huevo Ranchero"
Virginia
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Axle data for Scamp 13

FWIW, here's the data I've gathered after calling the Scamp factory and Northern Tool

1981 Scamp 13
Measured frame width: 48 inches
Scamp trailers: 1-800-346-4962
Replacement axle offered w/4-lug hub no brakes
$310
$100 shipping
Dexter
2200lb
b/w brackets 45 3/4 inches
outside to outside 49 3/4 inches
22.5 degree down angle
hub face-to-hub face: 63"
Dexter part number: 9TF22
*********************
Northern Tool: 1-800-221-0516 (Molly)
Local Northern Tool: (757) 825-3210
hub face-to-hub face" 62"
50 frame width
45 degree down angle
2000 lb capacity
66 3/4 overall
Part#: 129285
Price:229.99
Hub assembly: 4 lug w/brakes
1 inch bearings
1250lb capability per hub
Part#: 57204
Price: 29.99 each

Upshot is I can get an axle with brakes, free shipping for $300 from Northern Tool (shipped to a local store for my pickup). From Scamp, I get a no-brake axle delivered to my door for an additional $100. A local iron works I called says all torsion axles are made in one or two places and he hasn't seen any quality differences to speak of.
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:40 PM   #71
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But in English, will it work? I see some minor length differences, a half inch or so on my Boler would just about rub the outside wheel well.
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Old 04-30-2011, 06:55 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piscator View Post
But if you bump up the rating too much it will ride like a solid axle (suspension too stiff). According to one website I saw, the standard axle Scamp is using right now is a 2200-pounder.
I've talked to the Dexter Engineers about this topic. Essentially, we do not run empty like a box trailer ... then fully loaded. We've carry a variable 4-500 LB load ... head for the top end of wieght or preferrably middle and we should ride the sweet end of the spectrum.

That is we are loading the trailer at the specs the axle is designed for. According to the engineer I spoke with, overrating your axle a few hundred pounds will not make a great difference in ride, yet may may give you a few extra years to ride within specs.
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Old 04-30-2011, 07:01 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by Greg H View Post
But in English, will it work? I see some minor length differences, a half inch or so on my Boler would just about rub the outside wheel well.
Greg,
You have a boler American, the streetside wheelwell is inset (or outset depending on your point of view?) by about an inch to allow for the furnace. Check my axle swap post to understand what I'm talking about. Not everybody with a regular "boler" will see this.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post168305

Let me know if you need clarification.

Roy
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Old 04-30-2011, 07:12 PM   #74
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But I don't and never had the furnace. Maybe they were all built to hold a furnace, I don't know but I guess I should do some measuring.
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:29 AM   #75
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British Columbia
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Bent Axel?

Hello,

I hope my question here is not going to hijack this thread, I just wasn't sure if it warranted a whole new thread, so here it is:

While inspecting the underside of my Trillium 1300 I noticed a very slight vertical bend in the metal bar that runs across the underside of the trailer between the two wheel mounts/axels. The bend is on the door side of the trailer. I examined it for an impact mark to see if it was bent due to hitting something, but from what I could see there was no scratches or dents in the metal and not even in the paint (the trailer sat indoor on blocks for about 25 years and had about 95% tread on the original tires). My questions are:

1. Is this normal?

2. If it is not normal what are the chances that it is causing the wheels to not be rotating "true"? I just towed the trailer for about 5,000 KMs to California and back and it doesn't seem to be wobbling or bouncing. Is there a test I can do?

The way the bar/axel has the bend I would expect it to cause the tire on that side to wear un-evenly due to the change in the pressure being appied between the gropund and tire, but this doesn't seem to be the case so I am hoping that it is normal or an adjustment made at the factory. Should i take this to an axel shop for inspection? I can post a photo if it helps the experts understand what it looks like. Thanks!

~Rod
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Old 05-05-2011, 05:11 AM   #76
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Hi: Rodre... That bend, if it's the axle tube, is normal!!! That's what keeps the tires tracking true. It sets the camber of the tires otherwise they wouldn't wear evenly!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:57 AM   #77
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Hi: Rodre... That bend, if it's the axle tube, is normal!!! That's what keeps the tires tracking true. It sets the camber of the tires otherwise they wouldn't wear evenly!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
Is the bend normally not centered? The bend in mine is way on the door side of the trailer.

~Rodre
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:04 PM   #78
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Mine is in the center.
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:06 PM   #79
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Mine is in the center.
Hi Greg,

Are you rolling a Boler or a Trillium? Can any late 70's Trillium owners state the postion of the factory bend in their axel? Cheers!

~Rodre
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:10 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodre View Post
Hi Greg,

Are you rolling a Boler or a Trillium? Can any late 70's Trillium owners state the postion of the factory bend in their axel? Cheers!

~Rodre
Hey Rod, I wasn't paying attention, I have a Boler American.
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