Delivery in 1 week - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-28-2015, 02:18 PM   #15
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Name: Carl
Trailer: 2014 16 scamp side dinette/Rav4 V6 Tow pkg.
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
An ordinary twenty amp outlet will do just fine,if your cord reaches it and you use a common adapter. If you need more reach then be sure and get an extension cord with 12GA wire and insulation designed for outdoor use. You could even buy a 30A extension cord which would be best, but they are a bit pricey and you will still want the adapters for times when needed.
My experience is that most prudent small travel trailer owners carry an ordinary extension cord as described above.
Campgrounds usually only have 30A or 50A prices. The 30A pole will usually have 20A outlets as well to accommodate those with that cord.

Your Casita has breakers onboard to protect the wiring.
I haven't used surge protectors in my Travel Trailer and have not suffered any loss in my decades of travel.

You can buy a simple device to check the shore power before plugging in if you like although most people don't find it necessary.

You don't mention if your trailer will have A/C or a microwave or other high draw devices. Mine does have A/C, Microwave, icemaker, water pumps , etc.








I use a 25` 30amp ext. cord +120 adapter to plug into my garage outlet using only the lights and small things. I only leave it plugged in during nice days while i am parked in my driveway. You can use a 15amp ext. but the price for those are close to the 25`30 amp anyway so just spring for the 25` $50 cord anyway, I used rewards and got it for $30 on amazon.com. Carl
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Old 06-28-2015, 02:35 PM   #16
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Name: Floyd
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
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Originally Posted by Carl Pa View Post
I use a 25` 30amp ext. cord +120 adapter to plug into my garage outlet using only the lights and small things. I only leave it plugged in during nice days while i am parked in my driveway. You can use a 15amp ext. but the price for those are close to the 25`30 amp anyway so just spring for the 25` $50 cord anyway, I used rewards and got it for $30 on amazon.com. Carl
I have a 30A outlet in my shop and every cord imaginable. Sometimes I use the outlet.
Everything on my Scamp is a "small thing"
I have a friend who says every day above ground is a "nice day"
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Old 06-28-2015, 04:25 PM   #17
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Name: Cathy
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Wal-Mart carries the 30 AMP 25' extension cord online and I bet some stores do. I paid $35.87 and didn't have to pay shipping since I had other items totaling what it takes to get free shipping ($50 or more).
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Old 06-28-2015, 04:36 PM   #18
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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Originally Posted by whoot View Post
...
So I should plug the Casita in to the Killawatt, and plug the Killawatt in to the house's power, using a 15amp cord if the house has a 15 amp electrical, with everything turned off - then turn on each thing except the A/C and Microwave?....
Now back to our regularly scheduled program…

You have the basic idea.

You can use the Kill-A-Watt inline with the main power cord on the trailer. Just be careful to keep it under the 15 amp rating. Start with everything off, lights, fans, AC, fridge (even if it is on propane if it has electric controls) – all breakers off. First run only the converter.. see how much it draws running with no load.

You can get a good idea of how much amperage things in an RV use from a few internet sites, including RV Converters and Amp Draw - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

You can also check the label on things like the microwave oven, or check manufactures web sites and owners manuals.

For common appliances with a standard 120 vac plug, if it has a plug in a cabinet or somewhere accessible, I might just plug it into the Kill-A-Watt, which in turn is plugged into the house, and measure current that way. One nice thing about the Kill-A-Watt is that it measures total power usage over time. So if you have something that runs intermittently, you can find out the total (kilowatts) in an hour for example.
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Old 06-28-2015, 05:55 PM   #19
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Trailer: Escape 19' sold, 21' August 2015
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In 1 week, my Casita (17ft SD) will be delivered to a friend's house. It will stay in their driveway for about 2 weeks while I figure out how everything works. Is it possible to run a power cord from their house out to the Casita to provide some electrical power?

I have also read about some electrical surge-protectors of various types, and I have no idea which to get. Some are $50, some are $350. When I get to a campground and plug in to their 30 amp service, I want to know the Casita will not get fried. Is it safest to just get the most expensive one?

I have A-Z User Manual from LoveMyCasita, so I am trying to use that until I get the actual user manual.
You do not say if you have A/C but even without it, I take it you have paid for a new trailer and you want a surge protector. I will second the Progressive HW (hard-wired) 30 amp EMS with remote monitor, which does more than surge protection. It will protect your items from too little power, which often happens in campgrounds where everyone is running the A/C, and too much power up to a limit, and other electrical mishaps. There are some cases where people have lost all of their electrical items due to storm damage or ruined appliances due to the power situation. An RV shop may charge you $50-100 to put in an EMS.
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Old 06-28-2015, 10:16 PM   #20
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Name: Darral
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I've ran my Scamp on 15A circuits MANY times and ran the A/C with no problem. If you dont overload the circuit, it's no different that 20A. My Coleman pulls 7A MAX on high. I've ran 12v lights with it. I have used the cheapo 15A adapters but I also bought one that lights up I like better.

Not sure why everyone is condemning 15A. If I was running the heat strip, then it would be a no-no. But again, if you want to run on the 15A to stay cool, it will be fine.

I've never ran a surge protector. It's like insurance, it only takes one time. I guess I'm playing roulette but I've had people tell me not to worry about. One thing to keep in mind, they WILL NOT help during "brown outs"....unless they're protected with battery power or something.
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Old 06-29-2015, 06:36 AM   #21
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
.... If you dont overload the circuit, it's no different that 20A. My Coleman pulls 7A MAX on high. ...
Not sure why everyone is condemning 15A. If I was running the heat strip, then it would be a no-no. But again, if you want to run on the 15A to stay cool, it will be fine. ...

[re: surge suppressors]
One thing to keep in mind, they WILL NOT help during "brown outs"....unless they're protected with battery power or something.
If your Coleman AV only draws 7 amps then maybe the manufacturer says it can run on a 15 amp circuit.. there are of course many window unit ACs that do just that.

All I was pointing out is that the manufactures of many RV AC units specify a 20 amp circuit and they must have a reason for that.

Of course running something on a 20 amp circuit is not the same as running it on a 15 amp one. One allows more power draw than the other, both constant and short term. It is the short term surge that is the concern when running a AC unit.

The Dometic AC unit on my 8 foot pop-up had a draw of 13.5 amp when running on high, so you would think it would be fine to run on a 15 amp circuit. But when it starts up, the inrush current can be as much as 70 amps! See the "locked compressor" numbers on page four here.

So, on a 20 amp circuit you have more power available for this short term surge / inrush current requirement, and therefore it's safer to run the AC that way if that is what the manufacturer says you should do.

Thats the simple explanation. Google "inrush current" to learn more.

Also while it is true that simple surge suppressors will not help with brown outs, the one I linked to does.. to quote from the manufacturer, "High low voltage protection: Whenever source power falls below 104 Volts, or rise (sic) above 132 volts the EMS automatically shut down power to the RV"

You get what you pay for (sometimes).
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:17 AM   #22
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
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Gordon, the numbers I posted (7A) are real-life numbers on my Coleman Polar Cub 9K Btu. I actually checked it myself plugged into my ac at home. AGAIN, (and you read this on another thread), Coleman DOES recommend 20A on my unit. BUT, the heating unit pulls 13+A and I wouldnt feel good running it on 15A. But think back! Scamp WIRED my A/C unit with 15A wire/breaker!! In 5 yrs, I've never had it to throw a breaker but aain, I DID contact Kent @ Scamp about it. He didnt seem concerned. But I told him if I EVER bought another Scamp, that he would put what's required in there or I wouldnt sign the bill.

I looked at the Progressive Industries EMS you listed. I wish there were some reviews on it somewhere. I like the sound of what it does. While I've never used one, I still dont think they're a bad idea. Just more insurance in my book.

To be honest, I was going to buy one of the nicer ones at Camping World and one of their techs just flat talked me out of it!
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:51 AM   #23
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
Gordon, the numbers I posted (7A) are real-life numbers on my Coleman Polar Cub 9K Btu. I actually checked it myself plugged into my ac at home. .... In 5 yrs, I've never had it to throw a breaker but aain,

I DID contact Kent @ Scamp about it. He didnt seem concerned. But I told him if I EVER bought another Scamp, that he would put what's required in there or I wouldnt sign the bill.
All good points, but I still wonder if the AC is getting enough surge (inrush) current on a 15 amp circuit as opposed to a 20 amp.. breakers tripping or not is not the entire story, for example there is circuit resistance too.. well this is the epitome of YMMV.

Maybe Kent is not too concerned because Coleman, etc, honor their warrantees without checking the install. If they did deny a claim because of a bad install, I wonder if Scamp would cover it.. (I would guess not).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
I looked at the Progressive Industries EMS you listed. I wish there were some reviews on it somewhere. I like the sound of what it does. While I've never used one, I still dont think they're a bad idea. Just more insurance in my book.

To be honest, I was going to buy one of the nicer ones at Camping World and one of their techs just flat talked me out of it!
Wow they talked you out of buying something? Amazing.. well they are insurance, of course, no more.. they wont make your AC colder or your rig more energy efficient.
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:08 PM   #24
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Name: William
Trailer: Casita SD17
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Yesterday was 1 B.C., and tomorrow will be 1 A.D. That would be, Before Casita, and After Delivery.

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Old 07-02-2015, 06:10 PM   #25
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Beautiful! May you have many good times with it.
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:47 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by OneOleMan View Post
Wow! I didn't realize they could be that expensive. Maybe you could go for a cheaper one first then take the Casita to a reputable RV dealer to have a permanent one installed, (that would be my preference). There should be no need to unplug your trailer, it draws very little power and with a surge protector you should be able to leave it plugged in 24/7.

You get what you pay for Pat. The cheap ones often give you nothing more than a false sense of security, because they don't actually clamp the surge properly. The one I linked (there are many other quality ones as well) will react in less than a nanosecond. Adequate to protect the trailer.


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Old 08-11-2015, 04:02 PM   #27
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I feel the same way. We have to wait until the first week of October. It's unbearable!
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Old 08-11-2015, 04:03 PM   #28
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No like button, but I like it!
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