Double Axles - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-22-2003, 05:42 PM   #1
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Double Axles

I'm a trailer novice.

My soon to be delivered Fiber Stream has a double axle, four wheels. Is there anything I ought to know about this configuration? It just seems strange to me that a 16 foot trailer would be double axled. I guess I'm most concerned about maintenance and handling. I'm thinking double axled may be more stable to handle, less swayable, but maybe more expensive tire-wise.

Also what, if anything, should I do about the rust on the wheels?

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e2f2cdd04329Fiber Stream Door.jpg/>
<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e2f2c341acfeFiber stream Left Side.jpg/>
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Old 01-22-2003, 08:11 PM   #2
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Benita -- Double axle is generally considered to be better than single. But, before I get in trouble from all the single axle owners... double axles are not necessary in all cases, ie for lighter, smaller trailers -- the claim-to-fame of most eggs. But, double axle trailers track straighter, sway less, and pitch less on humpy roads. Tire wear is not a big deal -- each tire carries less weight, so it runs longer, but tire wear is accellerated when turning, as the rear axle tends to "scrub" a little. They also don't back around corners as nicely. They are less prone to the loading imbalances that can adversely affect handling.

As for the rust, how rusty are they? Cosmetic rust is no big deal - clean and paint them if you want. But, if there is pitting or heavy rust around the bead (where the tire meets the metal) or where the wheel center is welded to the rim, it can be serious, causing tire or rim failure. You'll probably be able to tell by looking, and trusting your own judgment, but if you aren't confident, take the trailer in to a reputable tire shop for evaluation.
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Old 01-22-2003, 08:40 PM   #3
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Good job

Paul, your the 36th viewer and the only one brave enough to answer. The only thing I know about them are if you blow a tire you got one to spare.. :nope no that's doolies. uuhh?? their heavier? Ok, I don't know nothing about 'um. but maybe they won't tip back if you forget to brace the backend? I better quit while I'm behind.:u
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Old 01-22-2003, 09:20 PM   #4
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FiberStream

Looks like you'll have your hands full detailing your FiberStream, As for the wheels and tires I'd replace them with new ones.

If the bolt circle is 4.5" with 5 lugs call Casita for tires and wheels already mounted and ask how much $, otherwise shop around.

I wonder if the FiberStream used the double axle to be able to use Passenger tires instead of trailer tires.

The trailer should tow straight as an arrow with double axels.

I spotted a FiberStream in No.East Cal. Thought it looked neet.<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3e2f5f719db1bFiber Stream 3.JPG/>
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Old 01-22-2003, 09:22 PM   #5
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Double Axle and WDH and Sway Bars

:wave Thanks Paul, Thanks Glen,

This news will influence my tow vehicle choice - somewhat. It seems that the double axle may mitigate the need for a sway bar or WDH. I know that's not an absolute but I'm thinking the four wheels may be a good thing, particularly if I wind up with a front wheel drive vehicle.
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Old 01-22-2003, 09:25 PM   #6
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Dual Axle Scamp

There is an article about installing dual axles on his 1993 Scamp fifth wheel in the Winter 2001 SOI News. The owner reports the rig handles better than it did with one axle.

-- Dan Meyer
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Old 01-22-2003, 09:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Orginally posted by Glen G
I wonder if the FiberStream used the double axle to be able to use Passenger tires instead of trailer tires.
The tires are definitely not auto tires - too tiny. The original spare is bolted to the tongue and there are other spares, some newer in the storage compartments of the camper.
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Old 01-22-2003, 09:36 PM   #8
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Hi Benita
I like double axils. I found from my experiance when I first was learning to haul a rv that it was ok. I had no problems. :)
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Old 01-22-2003, 10:52 PM   #9
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Oh by the way

When towing a double axle trailer it is very important that the trailer rides level. This will keep the load equal on both axles and tires.

So hitch height when loaded will need to be correct.

Of course with a 4000# max load trailer a class 3 receiver is necessary and the hitch height can easily be set up with the correct slide in ball mount. Done deal.

An other way to adjust the ball height is with air springs (load levelers,air bags,air shocks) installed on the tow vehicle.

The beauty of air springs is that you can adjust the ride height empty and loaded. Easy.

Another way is overload springs, but when empty the rear of the vehicle is jacked up and with the stiffer spring rate the ride suffers. Compromise.

And then there is the weight distributing hitch. A hassle to deal with.
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Old 01-23-2003, 02:05 AM   #10
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Oh My!

:omy A Class III hitch! The seller hauled it with a 2" ball on the bumper of his 4Runner. That's what he told me anyway. He also had a WDH that was not connected.

PS: I like the stripes on the California Fiber Stream.
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Old 01-23-2003, 08:52 AM   #11
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agree

I agree with that. a class III. your trailer could get heavy. Class II only goes to 3500. I wish Mine was a classIII just for peace of mind. even a 17 foot Casita suggests a Class III. When I think of all the really heavy stuff we pulled with our pickup with a ball on the bumper (-shiver-) when we got my Escape we looked at the pickup -up to 2000. it's a wonder we hadn't hurt ourselves or someone else.
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Old 01-23-2003, 09:10 AM   #12
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Double axles and receivers

Double axles - I'm really glad to hear some feedback on this, so thanks for asking, Benita. I only had gut feelings on this, and no facts, so I declined to post.

Although some consider it overkill on our fiberglass units, I always have thought that I would like it better. I know there would be the need for an extra spare (maybe not) but it would really be nice not to have to worry about over loading your axle or tires. Bigger tires are not always an option on some of our travel trailers.

Receivers: If you purchase a new tow vehicle you can have the dealer install it when you buy it. Or you can go to good ol' UHaul and have them install one for you.

Some of the bumpers will have a place for the ball. And they will state that they are Class III. If you are in doubt, put on a pair of old jeans one day and get down there and see how that bumper is attached to the vehicle. Then look at one that is added later; it will be attached to the frame. Ask yourself: which one would I be more secure with? Then you'll have your answer.
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Old 01-23-2003, 09:11 AM   #13
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The Fiber Stream

Just in case I have failed to mention it, I love the looks of your Fiber Stream.
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Old 01-23-2003, 09:42 AM   #14
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hitches

There's more than just weight capacity if you're choosing between class II and class III. We went with a class III hitch (to pull our little Boler - yeah yeah...)

There is more in the way of accessories -readily available- for class III hitches. You can get all the bike racks and carriers you want for class II, but they'll be special order items. Not good if you're in the middle of nowhere looking to replace a broken item. Same is true if you're looking to replace a hitch at 3:00AM.

Other thing to consider - if you ARE thinking of getting any additional hitch accessories (like bike carriers which allow you to tow a trailer behind too) - that excess tounge weight capacity will come in REALLY useful! Basically - you can get away with a lot more with the class III hitch. The class II will save you a little cash at the outset - but not much.

mkw
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