Electrical Surge Protectors

[GeorgeR]

I called both RV Power surge vendors and neither of them has UL 1449 listed mobile or hardwired products. They are UL listed for generic electronic/electrical device.
In this case I decided to save some money and go with Intermatic IG1240RC3 which is listed for ANSI/UL 1449 3rd edition for indoor/ outdoor (NEMA 3R) installation. For single phase both lines, black wires can be connected. I guess any time RV or M is associated with a product prices go up.

Talking with TRC or Progressive Ind. had limited technical substance but lot of fear of fried equipment. Talking with Intermatic was purely technical.
IG1240RC3
Amazon.com: Intermatic IG1240RC3 Whole Home Type-2 Surge Protection Device: Home Improvement

In case of low voltage or reverse polarity I already have TRC Power Monitor with multiple alarms. So if someone is in the trailer we are protected.
Amazon.com: Surge Guard LCD Digital Line Monitor - AECM20020: Automotive

George.

[cpaharley2008]

"In case of low voltage or reverse polarity I already have TRC Power Monitor with multiple alarms. So if someone is in the trailer we are protected."
But you may have to leave the a/c on in your trailer while away from your unit in which case your alarms will be to no avail. That is why I got the unit because I have pets. If you do not have the pet need then your route was more economical.

[GeorgeR]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

"In case of low voltage or reverse polarity I already have TRC Power Monitor with multiple alarms. So if someone is in the trailer we are protected."
But you may have to leave the a/c on in your trailer while away from your unit in which case your alarms will be to no avail. That is why I got the unit because I have pets. If you do not have the pet need then your route was more economical.

You are correct, but, for us the likelihood of running AC while being absent is very, very low which combined with possible brownout during this rare time would make this possible event statistically insignificant. I think that probability of frying electronic devices with voltage spikes is much higher and I trust ANSI/UL 1449 rating more than the one from “fearful folks”.

Your situation with pets is definitely different.

George.

[GeorgeR]

A friend of mine recommended Leviton product so I called them up and they recommended http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/Produ...minisite=10251 available at Home Depot for $50. Their claim to fame is use of a smaller stack of 40mm versus a larger stack of 20mm MOV devices, used by most of their competitors, which have better electrical performance.

I probably spent a total of an hour researching this purchase and knocked the price down from $250 to $50.

George.

[GeorgeR]

I just picked up Leviton from Home Depot and it has # of Joules on the box. Apparently this metric is no longer use by UL to gauge SPDs but just for reference to RV devices it is good for comparison. Total dissipation of unwanted energy of surges is measured in Joules.

Progressive EMS-HW30C – 1790 Joules - $250
TRC Surge Guard 34520 – 1050 Joules -$240
Leviton 51110-1 3400 Joules – $50
If low voltage disconnect is your priority than TRC or Progressive is a good choice. If priority is protection from voltage surges than Leviton is an unquestionable winner.

George.

[Sandy Christie]

George just a couple of questions from one who is electrically challenged. Where would this unit be put in the trailer electrical system? Between the plug and the panel? On the panel? I looked at the instruction sheet and they show 2 blacks, one white and one green going out. I think the trailer only has 1 black, 1white and 1 green. What happens to the extra black?

Any help would be appreciated but please keep it simple. Thanks

Sandy C

[Dennis Clinton]

Sandy: the unit is made for a 240v system. All you need to do is tie the two black wires together. I installed a similar unit in my home in the mountains several years ago(lots of lightning spikes) and have not had a problem since.

[GeorgeR]

Originally Posted by Sandy Christie

George just a couple of questions from one who is electrically challenged. Where would this unit be put in the trailer electrical system? Between the plug and the panel? On the panel? I looked at the instruction sheet and they show 2 blacks, one white and one green going out. I think the trailer only has 1 black, 1white and 1 green. What happens to the extra black?

Any help would be appreciated but please keep it simple. Thanks

Sandy C

The Leviton 51110-001 has 4 wires which need to be connected in parallel to shore power cable. The connection place could be at the main panel in the trailer.

1 - Leviton black wire – line >>>>> shore power black wire - line
2 - Leviton black wire – line >>>>> shore power black wire - line
3 - Leviton white wire – neutral >>>>> shore power white wire - neutral
4 - Leviton green wire – ground >>>>> shore power green or copper wire – ground

The Leviton SPD should be as close to the power line as possible and wires should be straight. You are dealing with safety so a local electrician help would be advised.

Good luck.

George.

[Bob Miller]

The best protections against RV power problems is an outlet checker (Home Depot <$7) and verifying that you have good connection. In more years of RV'ing than I care to remember, the most common problem I have encountered when hooking up is loose 15 amp outlets, some where the plug won't even stay in place. To counter that I carry a 15 to 30 amp adapter and always use the 30 amp outlet when it is available. The 20 amp breaker in my Intellipower panel still protects my rig. BTW: If you still have a molded plug on your power cable, if it even gets warm during use, it's time to change to a new "dead front" plug. Molded plugs are notorious for developing loose internal connections over time. Loose connections inside = heat and spikes.

[GeorgeR]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

The best protections against RV power problems is an outlet checker (Home Depot <$7) and verifying that you have good connection. In more years of RV'ing than I care to remember, the most common problem I have encountered when hooking up is loose 15 amp outlets, some where the plug won't even stay in place. To counter that I carry a 15 to 30 amp adapter and always use the 30 amp outlet when it is available. The 20 amp breaker in my Intellipower panel still protects my rig. BTW: If you still have a molded plug on your power cable, if it even gets warm during use, it's time to change to a new "dead front" plug. Molded plugs are notorious for developing loose internal connections over time. Loose connections inside = heat and spikes.

I agree that checking what is within you control with outlet checker, loose wiring or bad extension cords is prudent. SPD helps with issues which are outside your control for example your neighbors have something wrong with their wiring sending spikes around or overall health of the campground power.
George.