Escape Trailer and Honda EU2000i Generator Test - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-07-2006, 06:51 PM   #1
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I finally had time to play with my Honda EU2000i generator and Escape trailer. The Honda EU2000i proved to be a good match for the Escape.

I have the optional air conditioner and fantastic fan. I installed a 950 watt microwave (with turntable) on top of the wardrobe. I chose a 950 watt microwave as the weight of the more powerful units seemed to be excessive for the associated increase in wattage.

The trailer battery was not fully charged. I did not run the refrigerator as I would use propane while dry camping, not the generator. I left the generator in economy mode for most of the tests.

All tests were run with all internal and external lights on, the battery charging, the fantastic fan set to high and the cook top exhaust fan on. To get the trailer nice and warm so the AC would cycle, I turned on the furnace. It was mighty warm inside the trailer, the kids were confused or perhaps dazed by the heat. To keep my beer from suffering, I quickly downed it. Then the fun began.

With the furnace blasting merrily along, turning on the AC resulted in the generator going off-line. Having the furnace and AC on simultaneously is not a rational combination, but hey, it was fun to see which was more powerful. Heat beat cool.

With the furnace off and AC on, the generator will operate at a speed higher than economy but less than maximum. The AC can be cycled off and on with a corresponding decrease and increase in generator speed.

With the AC on, the microwave can be used at the highest power setting. The microwave and AC were cycled off and on in every possible combination. I turned the generator economy mode off for these tests to cut down on generator speed transients.

All in all I am pleased with the Honda generator. It will power my Escape under all normal operating conditions.
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Old 06-07-2006, 07:34 PM   #2
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[b]To keep my beer from suffering, I quickly downed it. Then the fun began.

With the furnace blasting merrily along, turning on the AC resulted in the generator going off-line. Having the furnace and AC on simultaneously is not a rational combination, but hey, it was fun to see which was more powerful. Heat beat cool.
All in the name of science!
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Old 06-08-2006, 12:09 AM   #3
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For those interested in powering the a/c in a rig other than Escape, it would help if you posted the Brand and Model of your a/c.
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Old 06-12-2006, 06:18 PM   #4
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Was this test at sea level? My 2k Honda does great in the driveway, but at campsites over 5k, it will just run the micro. At 7k not even the micro, just the tv vcr.
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:15 PM   #5
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Good question. The test was at approximately 4,200 feet. The generator has not been modified for high altitude operations.
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Old 06-12-2006, 08:20 PM   #6
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Thanks Thane, this was interesting to read since I have that generator on my wish list.
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Old 10-19-2006, 07:17 AM   #7
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Thanks Thane, this was interesting to read since I have that generator on my wish list.
i have a u-haul that am making over that i have installed a frige, a/c, microwave , tv (small) , skillett and a ceramic heater.
that being said i just picked up a honda 2500w from a pawn shop for 300 and got it home plugged in the a/c 490w the frige 161w and the tv wattage unk(got it for 16 from same pawn shop) and it never skipped a beat .
today plan on pluggin every thing in within rated limits and push it to the limmit.....
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Old 10-19-2006, 09:47 PM   #8
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I am very pleased with Honda E2000. For the Bigfoot it is all we need , the only down side is its loss of power at higher altitudes.But it runs the TV and dvd so Iam happy.Besides who needs a/c at 7500 ft.
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Old 10-23-2006, 07:43 AM   #9
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I am very pleased with Honda E2000. For the Bigfoot it is all we need , the only down side is its loss of power at higher altitudes.But it runs the TV and dvd so Iam happy.Besides who needs a/c at 7500 ft.
Heheh, David i do , at 14 ft above sea level and in TEXAS ,i'd say yep I shore do!
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Old 10-23-2006, 08:47 AM   #10
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I found with my Honda outboard engine that it ran better at higher altitude on higher octane gas. Just my two cents worth
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Old 10-23-2006, 11:49 PM   #11
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That's strange because it shouldn't have made a difference (except $) -- Higher octane is required to keep the fuel-air mixture from pre-igniting when compressed too high (in engines with high compression ratios) -- At altitude, the air is at lower pressure to begin with, so less compression happens, requiring less octane -- That's w'hy fuel sold at higher altitudes is normally one or two octane points lower than that sold at lower altitudes (also why you should get some 'normal' gas in your tank when you come down off the mountain, esp in summer).

Regarding LP heaters/furnaces, if one is going to be using one routinely at altitude, it may be worth changing out the jet -- Sea level jets will tend to allow a too rich mixture at altitude, resulting in more fuel burnt -- Same may be true for gasoline motors that don't have altitude compensation in their fuel systems.

Note octane numbers on this pump at altitude in Wyoming:
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OCTANE_1.JPG  
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Old 10-24-2006, 05:33 PM   #12
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I was adviced by the Honda dealer in Bend Oregon to run higher octane, it also seems to help the chain saw an weed wacker. We fished with our 4 stroke Honda Outboard at about 5,000 feet it ran better on higher octane
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Old 10-25-2006, 01:20 AM   #13
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I've noticed on several web sites for the Honda EU series that higher octane fuel is recommended, but the owner's manual for the 2000 states 86 octane or higher.

Generally, when a need for better fuel is suspected, it is recommended to try different brands of fuel in the same octane grade before switching to higher octanes.

I once had a quiet disagreement with the service manager of a Saturn dealership -- I came in to have my computer reset (changed transmission fluid/filter) and he noticed that my knock sensor had been tripped several times -- He recommended I switch to high octane fuel -- I advised him that I had replaced the idler puller (at about 60Kmiles), and that according to my after-market service manual (the kind that adds in some field experience, unlike most factory service manuals), a failing idler pulley would activate the knock sensor (close proximity, I guess) -- However, I was having some uphill acceleration problems, so I went to a premium station and put in a tank of premium fuel -- Problem was still with me. Reminded myself that fuel is often blamed for ignition problems, so I'd check out the wires -- Sure enuf, I had put the wrong set of wires on there -- Put the right ones on and the problem went away -- Went back to using El Cheapo gas and the problem stayed away -- One moral of this story is that "premium" refers to your wallet, not to horsepower -- Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer choice!
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