Exterior Maintenance Questions

[Jon in AZ]

Getting ready to do some exterior cosmetic maintenance on the Scamp.

Decals are cracked and fading, so I have new decals from Scamp- check. Gravel guard hardware is rusting and sagging, so I have a new set from Scamp- check. A few rivets need to be reset with new retaining washers- check. Have lots of snap caps, but no small ones- still looking there.

Putting together an Amazon order today.

Questions:

1. Is there anything I can do to the gravel guard hardware to prolong its life? Paint? Some kind of clear finish?

2. I'm ordering the 3M Stripe-Off Wheel. Do I go to work on the decals as-is, or should I do any chemical or mechanical prep before attacking with the wheel?

3. I am going to try a marine wax this time. I'd say my Scamp has moderate oxidation on top with light oxidation on the sides. I plan to use Bar Keepers Friend to do a thorough cleaning before applying the wax. I am looking for UV protection and durability more than a super-high gloss- not interested in the Zep or Poly-Glow approach. I've identified several products mentioned in old posts: Meguiar's M6332 Flagship Premium Marine Wax, 3M 09030 Marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax, or 3M 09062 Marine Liquid Wax. Any feedback on any of these products regarding ease of application or durability?

4. This will be my first riveting experience. I plan to start with the gravel guard hardware on the removable part as my training round. I have been reading all the recent threads related to riveting carefully. Any last-minute advice or cautions?

5. Seems like most people put a dab of sealant or butyl under the retaining ring when setting the rivet. What kind should I use?

6. I have read that the decals are best applied using soapy water so they can be adjusted. I'd love to have a bit more detail, as in step-by-step, on that.

Thanks, all!

[Dosrios]

You should be very happy with the initial shine and long term UV durability of Meguiar's Marine Flagship. Have always used it on my fiberglass boat and metal vehicles with great success. The more soapy water the better with decals, once you're happy with positioning, squeegee all the liquid and air bubbles to the edges.

[emij]

I can help with No. 6!

I used Dawn dish soap in a bucket of soapy water (the soapier the better, no exact amount).

Peel the decal from the paper (you can do it in sections by peeling part of it off if it's a long stripe) dunk into the soapy water.

I also took my other hand and put soapy water on the camper, where the decal was going.

Remove from soapy water, place into position on camper. Position and reposition until you have it where you want it. Then using a squeegee or credit card, smooth out the wrinkles.

If it's taking a bit to get it positioned correctly, add more soapy water to the decal and camper, using your hand to 'scoop' out the water onto the work surface. As long as you keep it wet and soapy, you can reposition forever.

I ordered a sort of felt covered squeegee from Amazon that was very gentle on the decals.

Once the water and soap dries, the decals will be glued on. I was nervous about doing ours, but my dad has done tons of body work and striping over the years and promised me this would work, and it did! I started small, with the little scamp trees decals

[emij]

Here is the squeegee:
https://smile.amazon.com/Vinyl-Plast...decal+squeegee

And we have used and really liked, this three step process for waxing. It removed all of the oxidation and really polished up our Scamp.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Jon in AZ]

Thanks, Ralph! Emily, I appreciate the details and links. I re-read your original post this morning when you did the same on your then-new Scamp. Looks like several votes for Meguiar's. Did you do any scraping before you used the eraser wheel on the old decals?

[40bpm]

I'm no expert but this past summer I compounded, polished and waxed my Bigfoot using Meguiar's Dual Action Drill attachment. It worked great for applying the products. No comparison between hand application and the drill attachment application - much much better using the drill attachment.

Here's link to it on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G350...drill+polisher

The car detailer's all say to use the least abrasive product that does the job. I wonder if the Bar Keeper's Friend might be more than is needed. Compounding with the drill attachment might be perfect. I was pleased with the outcome on the Bigfoot.

Let us know how your project goes!

[CampyTime]

I simply sanded my gravel shield hardware as best I could then painted with a small brush and silver or chrome rustoleum. I did but stainless steel little carabiners from home depot to replace the dog tie out clips! Every year I go around my trailer and do little sanding jobs like this and paint with a tip or small brush. I buy a rattle can and spray into a medicine cup

Sent from my VS985 4G using Fiberglass RV mobile app

[CampyTime]

Oops. Q Tip

Sent from my VS985 4G using Fiberglass RV mobile app

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by 40bpm

...car detailer's all say to use the least abrasive product that does the job. I wonder if the Bar Keeper's Friend might be more than is needed...

I have wondered that, too. I am leaning toward giving the 3-step Meguiar's a try and not using the BKF this time. I do have a power buffer.

Wendy, thanks for the tips. The current hardware is too far gone to be saved. The clips on the top of the guard wore grooves in the hooks on the trailer. As a result the whole thing sagged just enough that the clips on the bottom no longer latch. I have to wire it closed for travel. I'll paint the new before installation, then try to keep it up.

Thanks!

[Kevin A]

Removing old decals: two methods helped me get the 28 year old decals off our Bigfoot last week. I used a painter's heat gun on low setting with a plastic scraper and citrus-based paint remover gel. The heat method worked well if the decal still had some good vinyl left. Severely cracked areas came off easily with the stripper (2 coats) and scraper. Then it was all wiped up with acetone and finished with Barkeepers Friend.

[emij]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Thanks, Ralph! Emily, I appreciate the details and links. I re-read your original post this morning when you did the same on your then-new Scamp. Looks like several votes for Meguiar's. Did you do any scraping before you used the eraser wheel on the old decals?

I second what Kevin A did. We just used the Orange Goo remover and a plastic scraper. It was tedious and time consuming, but it got the job done. Then we wiped it all down with acetone and let that dry. We didn't have a stripper wheel or I may have tried that! On a few really stuck places, I used a straight razor blade, which worked incredibly well, but I was afraid of gouging the fiberglass, so only used it as a last resort.

[Jon in AZ]

I've done decals that way- removed graphics from a Nissan truck a while back. Very tedious and time consuming.

I learned about the 3M tool in your old thread, Emily (see post #10): 3M Stripe-Off Wheel. Several others have mentioned it since, and it seemed promising.

At $30, it's not cheap, so I was hoping someone that had actually used it could give some feedback on whether it works as claimed, and whether any prep work is needed. I was hoping to avoid chemicals, except a little for the final clean-up.

[Island Claire]

Welcome Jon,
The last time I was riveting, I used Sikaflex 291 under the rivets. I also bought and used some neoprene washers to use with the rivets.

[DeanCHS1980]

Hi Jon,

Interesting thread. As you may remember, this is our first year with our new to us Casita. The top half of the Casita has taken a beating from the sun this summer. The "shine" on the top half is disappearing. It is splotchy (spots of shiny and spots of dull). I just attended a rally and another Casita owner indicated that our Casita had been treated with Polyglow. I am fine with the shine, but it is wearing off, particularly on the top half driver's side (faces the sun). I assume I will need to treat the entire top half by removing the remaining Polyglow and then polishing and waxing once stripped. I, too, was wondering about Meguiar's 3 step system even thought I don't really have any oxidation issues.

I will monitor your thread to see I can learn a bit.

Thx,

Dean

[gordon2]

I also bought some of the 3M 09030 Marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax but I have not used it yet. I have used the Meguiar's M6332 Flagship Premium Marine Wax which removes some light oxidation and staining. My plan is to use it again (and every six months) and then top coat with the 3M 09030. I think the exact products you need to use and the order of use is dependent on the amount of gel-coat restoration needed but all the listed products have good reputations.

But as for the decals, I really don't want to deal with cracked and faded decals in a few years so I wonder if you have considered removing the old ones and not putting news ones on? I also wonder if I should remove mine now, since the camper is a year old, to avoid the shadowing that will only get worse as time goes by (if the decals are removed later).

[Jon in AZ]

Gordon, mine is definitely further along the oxidation path than yours, especially on top, after 8 years in high-altitude AZ sun. I thought about leaving off the decals, but decided to keep the large "Scamp" name at the back corners. I'm switching to gold, both to match my TV and because gold lasts longer in the sun. I'm leaving off the stripes and the decal on the gravel guard- it's going to collect stickers from our journeys.

I'm still vacillating between Meguiar's and the 3M paste wax (you're no help there ). I've always considered paste wax more durable but have no real evidence to support that. I appreciate your input.

[Ken Max]

One pretty good cleaner for gelcoat is Lime Away - mildly acid with good cleaning characteristics .. Scrub the thing 2x and rinse very very well .. Yes Bartenders Friend for " trouble spots ." - but only Trouble Spots.

Then consult Consumer Reports About Car Wax / Polish .... I have been using NU FINISH for yonks on both my fiberglass boats , Scamp and vehicles. Works for me at a reasonable price.

( I am frequently amused with the praises of Cabana Wax as an ingredient - Cabana Wax is derived from the Cabana Palm and has the interesting of melting at body temperature ... We have eaten lots of it as the coating of M & M's - which melt in your mouth instead of ...... ! Ya Pays your $$ and takes your pick ! )

Remove the Decals with a wheel - about 10 bucks on ebay - very easy and clean . If replacing the Decals - and having them made - consider using the 3M reflective decal material - it is of heaver weight - lasts a lot longer - and finding ones home in a campground is a reflective experience .
All the Best

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

...
I'm still vacillating between Meguiar's and the 3M paste wax (you're no help there ). I've always considered paste wax more durable but have no real evidence to support that. I appreciate your input.

As I understand it... the Meguiar's M6332 Flagship Premium Marine Wax has a mild abrasive so its good for light oxidation and staining. I do not think that the 3M 09030 Marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax has any abrasive quality to speak of and so it would only be appropriate for a new or newly restored gel-coat.

I guess if I were in your shoes, I would try the Meguiar's M6332 on a small section and see if I were happy with the results. If the gel-coat is too far gone to look good after using it, then a more aggressive polishing would be called for (such as the three step products). I am no expert on this at all however so seek out advice of others, maybe the local boat shops. The only thing I know for sure is that you want to use the least abrasive product that restores the gel-coat's appearance but does not remove any more than needed.

PS.. you were no help with the decals issue
I still don't know if I should leave them on or not. But I do know that I will not be adding any!

[Cathi]

3M has a Marine Restore product that some people have liked. Sounds as if you need that.

The wheel gets good reviews. Our graphics were not old and I was able to just put hot water on a cloth and remove them.

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Getting ready to do some exterior cosmetic maintenance on the Scamp.

Decals are cracked and fading, so I have new decals from Scamp- check. Gravel guard hardware is rusting and sagging, so I have a new set from Scamp- check. A few rivets need to be reset with new retaining washers- check. Have lots of snap caps, but no small ones- still looking there.

Putting together an Amazon order today.

Questions:

1. Is there anything I can do to the gravel guard hardware to prolong its life? Paint? Some kind of clear finish?

2. I'm ordering the 3M Stripe-Off Wheel. Do I go to work on the decals as-is, or should I do any chemical or mechanical prep before attacking with the wheel?

3. I am going to try a marine wax this time. I'd say my Scamp has moderate oxidation on top with light oxidation on the sides. I plan to use Bar Keepers Friend to do a thorough cleaning before applying the wax. I am looking for UV protection and durability more than a super-high gloss- not interested in the Zep or Poly-Glow approach. I've identified several products mentioned in old posts: Meguiar's M6332 Flagship Premium Marine Wax, 3M 09030 Marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax, or 3M 09062 Marine Liquid Wax. Any feedback on any of these products regarding ease of application or durability?

4. This will be my first riveting experience. I plan to start with the gravel guard hardware on the removable part as my training round. I have been reading all the recent threads related to riveting carefully. Any last-minute advice or cautions?

5. Seems like most people put a dab of sealant or butyl under the retaining ring when setting the rivet. What kind should I use?

6. I have read that the decals are best applied using soapy water so they can be adjusted. I'd love to have a bit more detail, as in step-by-step, on that.

Thanks, all!

[Becca50]

Hi there-
My first post!
I removed old Scamp decals with a small travel hair dryer and a plastic scraper. Really easy and no chemicals! I was prepared to spend all day on this, and it only took me about an hour to remove all the decals except on the front window cover (5th wheel). Give it a try before busting out the big guns!
Yours,
Becca