Fiberglassing Floor - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 03-13-2015, 07:06 AM   #15
Senior Member
Name: Eddie
Trailer: Casita Indy.
Posts: 1,406
On your dance floor bracing, Scamp puts one piece of angle iron side to side in about the center of the floor area. This allows for a space for a grey water tank if you or a later owner decides to install one. On the taller 16'&19's some people make brackets to store their 12 gal. sewer totes behind the tank and center brace. Once a good floor is installed the frame is pretty solid. I do like the idea if adding outboard braces to help support the outer floor and shell.

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Old 03-13-2015, 01:03 PM   #16
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 43
Since we don't have tanks I plan to add additional angle iron under the dance floor and will resin coats both sides of the plywood. The piece of floor at the door has always been weak so when I replace the dance floor section I will use one piece of plywood for the dance floor and entry.

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Old 04-02-2015, 10:22 PM   #17
Junior Member
Name: Adam
Trailer: In the market
British Columbia
Posts: 6
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
You have to get the door and the shell aligned to the frame walkway ears first and glass that in first. (See botton note on blocking up the shell). Don't cut your wood floor until you do this. If you put the floor in first you will not be able to align the door later.
I always leave the bottom tabbing on the shell when cutting the old floor out. I cut the top tabbing off flush with the shell. I make a rough template and use cardboard tabs and hot glue to make a final template for your floor. After cutting the wood I coat the bottom of the floor with resin and let it dry.
Just prior installing the floor put resin on the lower tab upper surface, then put adhesive sealant on the top metal edges surrounding the drop floor area. Then coat the wood edge that mates with the tabbing with resin then drop the floor in place. I then go under the trailer and screw the tabbing tight to the wood with #6 or #8 X 1/2" long self tapping PK screws (duct screws) anywhere there are gaps between the wood and tabbing. On top then brush resin in around the edge of the wood. Once it sets up you can tab the top to the shell. The first trailers I used 2" or 3" seam glass cloth for tabbing. I later switched to cutting strips of matting to form the tabbing it conforms better to the curves.
Other notes:
If you cut off the lower tabbing they make gel resin for upside down work. (good luck with that).
You do not want the shell to touch the frame if you can prevent it. I cut 2x4's slightly longer than the distance from the frame to the bottom of the belly band and force them in place to slightly lift the shell.
I paint the top of the wood floor after it is installed. I have used epoxy garage floor paint or poarch paint.
When glassing the floor & bottom tab make sure the garage floor under the trailer is covered with thick plastic.

Good Luck Eddie
no need to reply to this as I'm just making it so its easy for me to find again. Thanks for the info I have to delve into this myself and this is good to know.
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:36 PM   #18
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Name: Adam
Trailer: In the market
British Columbia
Posts: 6
edit : was a duplicate post by mistake

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