I started patching the hole with a layer of fiberglass patch from underneath. Using waxed paper as a separator, I prepped a few layers of fiberglass on a scrap of plywood then held the patch in place from the underside using some jacks. Once cured, I laid a few more layers of glass into the hole from the topside.
Some of the soft spots were a little more extensive than we expected. The floor was soft in the area marked in the first picture below. I tried using some of the “Git-Rot” liquid mixture for fixing wood rot as shown in the second picture below. The second picture also shows the results of the second stage of the fiberglass patch in the bottom right.
“Git”-Rot works great, but is very expensive, it would have cost me a couple of hundred dollars to fix the entire area. I used the jug I bought following the instructions allowing the liquid to flow down to the bottom of each hole. Once that had cured, I sanded off the remaining soft wood and used fiberglass strand body filler to completely fill up the depressions. After curing the floor was finished by sanding everything smooth and level.
We decided to use a vinyl strip flooring because got a great deal on this Karndean Van Gogh
product from a local source.
We needed a smooth surface to install on, so I decided to lay some thin painted MFP board down as a sub floor using PL400 sub floor adhesive since it is flexible and not affected by sub freezing temperatures. One 4X8 sheet of MFP was not enough to do both floor sections, so I decided to get 2 sheets so I could carry the smooth floor over into the storage sections, the rear looked so good I purchased a 3<sup>rd</sup> sheet to do the front under the bunk too. The stuff was relatively inexpensive looked nice and once it was caulked to the walls would make cleanup much easier.
Continued in Part 3