FRAME

[JIMZ]

Hello all, I was looking at my boler today and I started thinking of replacing the frame how hard is it to remove the body from the frame. Or does anyboy know a good place to get a new frame welded up! i live in calgary. thx in advance!

[Roy Massen]

I had mine re-made last fall. I re-used the axel, rear bumper, hitch, jack and floor supports from the original. Had a local welder make the new one out of heavier steel (materials and labor $1,200) and then had it powdercoated for another $400.

Separating the body from the frame took a morning (6 bolts and a few rivets) but was not that hard. Finally found the last connection under the fridge :-)

[JIMZ]

That trailer frame looks sweeeetlooks like they did a awsome job. I think I ask to many questions, but the bolts did you cut them off & the rivets where were the rivets! I also herd today that the fabricator has to have a trailer licence for safety reasons is that true.

[Dan Meyer]

Hello Jimz

Why do you think your trailer needs a new frame? Does your existing frame have holes in it? If it is only rusty, can you poke holes in it when moderate force is applied with a screwdriver? If not, I suggest that your frame is fine as-is and whatever problems exist are simply cosmetic.

-- Dan Meyer

[JIMZ]

I have this thing about go big or go home! even if its only 13'

[Kurt & Ann K.]

JimZ,
If you are truly contemplating a new frame, consider some possible improvements. Would you benefit by raising the height? Reduces possibility of dragging the rear bumper and also gives extra clearance in case you would like to increase wheel and tire size (larger diameter reduces the number of wheel revolutions per mile which decreases wear on the axle bearings). If you pay particular attention to balance, the frame length can be extended either or both front and rear.
A certified welder (similar to your trailer licensed fabricator) makes sense when realizing the possible things which might go wrong.
Enjoy contemplating the actual need and possible improvements
Have an inspired Christmas,
Kurt & Ann K.

[JIMZ]

Well I went out today and un bolted the body. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be, so I should have it out tomorrow. Then I will see wat I want, all those points are very helpfull I didn't think of the tire size thats a good idea but I don't want it to tall, the front sure would be nice to make it a little longer like about 8'' to 10'' or so for the propane and battery.Thanks any more tips are always welcome.

[Curtis F.]

Well, like Kurt said, while you are making a new one, make some improvements. I just added a 30"X60" platform in front of the shell of my Trillium. I've added a Hitch Haul carrier on the back. Also replaced the 2000 lb axel with a 3500 lb axel. Raised the trailer 3" by adding a 3"X2" square stock on to the the existing 2"X2" square stock that is between the axel and the trailer frame.

If I was making a new frame, I add a large platform in front and behind the trailer shell. I'd probably put a storage box on the rear. I am going to use the front platform to carry a wheel Pride Hurricane battery powered scooter. Might upgrade my rear to a larger storage box of some type.

Roy, I think you got a very good deal. It cost me more than that to have my tongue extended and the trailer raised 3". Of course 2 pieces, 30"X60", of Alluminum diamond plate were $250.00 of my cost.

It's easier and cheaper to build it from scratch than it is to change it once it's built.

Curtis

[Kurt & Ann K.]

Other points to keep in mind... adding to the length of your trailer can have repercussions.
In my case, my 17' TT, is now technically a 19' model since the DMV measurements are from the tip of the tongue to the very back of the trailer. DMV charges can be affected in some states. Ferry charges will be affected if your TT is placed in another length classification. As I mentioned before, balance is critical as is tongue weight on your tug. Watch the total weight if you are approaching a terminal amount.
Fortunately, I had not chosen our tug until most of the mods affecting weight had been accomplished. Our initial choice would simply not have been sufficient. We've made the personalized changes in preparation for some long duration trips.
In 2006, we hope to spend several months on the road. God willing and the finances stretch adequately for fuel. We'll just have to "play it by ear" as time progresses.
Your uses may be different so tailoring the TT's mods to fit, should require serious contemplation.
Work with your "significant other" when selecting mods, if they will be included in your RV's use!
Happy camping----
Kurt & Ann K.

[JIMZ]

I have pulled the frame from under the trailer and I am glad that i did there are a couple of good cracks over ther axle. I also have choosen not to lengthen the frame, but only to rebuild a new one using heavier steel, I don't want to carry a bunch of stuff that I really don't need with me away. As far as the tow vehicle we have a H2 sut & a chevy avalanche but I would still like to keep it light if I can, theres going to be a lot going on in the inside when I'm done I'm changing the floor plan totally.thanks again!

[Loren G. Hedahl]

That's unusual to find cracks in the frame over the axle area. The weak point it at the front where the frame bends to form the "V" for the towing coupler. I actually had a Compact Jr. that sagged almost to the ground. Luckily it was in Laredo, Tx and we were able to find a good and inexpensive welding shop to make the repairs. The welder spoke only Spanish but there was no problem communicating.

In any case it is always better to avoid any chance of breakdown on the road.

[JIMZ]

Ya, it was all cracked in the front also, I thought it was weird to have cracks over the axle too! But Im just glad i pulled it and found the cracks, my new frame is being fabed as we speak.

[Roy in TO]

Ya, it was all cracked in the front also, I thought it was weird to have cracks over the axle too! But Im just glad i pulled it and found the cracks, my new frame is being fabed as we speak.

I stumbled across a thread on Boler ama today that had a link to some good pictures of frame cracks and replacement.
77 pictures

I'm finding it interesting that there were many variations on the frame over the years.

Roy

[james kent]

I stumbled across a thread on Boler ama today that had a link to some good pictures of frame cracks and replacement.
77 pictures

I'm finding it interesting that there were many variations on the frame over the years.

Roy

Glad you found these. Mabee these pictures should be put into a folder as a tutorial for use to identify Boler frame problems

[Don Meyer]

Glad you found these. Mabee these pictures should be put into a folder as a tutorial for use to identify Boler frame problems

There is rarely a need for a new frame. I am a certified welder & a frame can be repaired a lot cheaper than making a new one. I think you could have more problems w/a new non factory fabricated frame than repairing your current one.

Don Meyer, PhD-Mech Engr

[colin k]

The frame on my 73 was cracked or broken above the axle. It was previously repaired before i bought it. The frame was also cracked in front of the wheels where they all crack but i reinforced that area. The frame is still strong and i have no worries about it.

[Benny K]

Hi Don, you`re just the person I`d like to toss a question at.....what do you think about welding in a flange for a brake backing plate on a torsion rubber axle after the axle is already built? ......perhaps you read a previous post on brake axles so you`d know what I`m asking about.......Benny

[Don Meyer]

Hi Don, you`re just the person I`d like to toss a question at.....what do you think about welding in a flange for a brake backing plate on a torsion rubber axle after the axle is already built? ......perhaps you read a previous post on brake axles so you`d know what I`m asking about.......Benny

This would be hard to do because the packing plate has to be perpendicular to the spindle
& fixturing would be required to accomplish this.

Why not just buy a new axle. I am doing this with my 1977 13' Scamp because the axle has no more spring to it & I want to install it w/trailing arms vs. the current leading arms. With leading arms the brakes will not work as well.

Don

[Roy in TO]

I want to install it w/trailing arms vs. the current leading arms. With leading arms the brakes will not work as well.

Don

Why don't e-brakes work as well on leading arm axles?

Roy

[Suz]

.... With leading arms the brakes will not work as well.

Don

Hummm. Interesting. I haven't hear that before. Theoretically, I can see the point, but that's what I have on mine and they are terrific. Perhaps if I had a small tow vehicle or ever get a trailer with trailing arms, I might be able tell the difference. I wonder, since our trailers are so light weight if the difference is really discernable?