Fridge options

[Wade W.]

I'm new here,
I recently purchased a Burro 13 (Our first camper)) which has had the original Dometic replaced with an AC only "dorm room" type fridge. I'm considering my options between Ice Box, new propane/120ac fridge, or just better securing and trimming out around the existing unit. I believe that I will spend enough time in areas where AC power is not available to make the propane fridge seem like the better option (but costly) although an ice box poses the issue of where to optain block ice when on the road. I've considered the idea of just using coolers in the tow vehicle and converting the fridge area to storage shelves..then again when power is available the existing unit works quite nicely. I've read the Dometic installation instructions which indicate the need to seal off the rear of the fridge from the rest of the camper interior and currently that area is not exactly a sealed compartment. So...any advice from the experienced? Thank you.

[Frederick L. Simson]

I recently purchased a Burro 13 (Our first camper)) which has had the original Dometic replaced with an AC only "dorm room" type fridge. I'm considering my options...

This is a very common "Fix" when people are confronted with the sticker shock of gas/electric absorption units. Are the vents to the outside still in place within the refridgerator space of the kitchen cabinet? Since the Burro kitchen unit is a molded-in part of the interior, I would think that sealing the fridge from the interior would be less of a hassle than in other trailers...

If you use "Blue Ice" packs, your Dorm Fridge might be used as a "Hybrid" Ice Box. Just one alternative.

In my case, when my 31 year old absorption refridgerator fails, I'm going to pay the price to have it replaced with a new 3-way unit.

[peterh]

We have no real use for 12v cooling in our fridge. We've found that plugging in the night before to get everything nice and cold, then packing our cold storage stuff inside with plastic bins of ice keeps our fridge nice and cold until we're at our destination. When we set-up we plug in or switch the propane on, and we're happy campers.

[Roy Massen]

I wanted to go electric / solar and not have a propane fridge. So purchased one of the small low energy use Tundra 12 volt refrigerators (uses about 4.5 amps when it runs which I figure comes to about 50 amps hrs a day. Had to cut the opening a little taller but if fit where the old one was. I had enough room to keep the drawer above it. Started with a 75 watt solar panel but found it didn't keep things going more that a couple of days without drawing the batteries down. I added a 120 watt panel to my system and with the total of 195 watts of solar panels I have enough power to run the fridge, lights and computer without running down the batteries.

I have a small microwave that runs off of 120 volts and an inverter but so far have only used it when on shore power.

[pjanits]

I replaced the fridge in our 13' Burro with an air conditioner and additional pan storage above it, We picked up a Coleman 12v cooler in 2004 , and are still using it, and I figure with the 17 Burro we now have I will transport stuff in the cooler and transfer over to the built in fridge. Minor adjustments along the way but all bases should be covered. Of course we will run the fridge on A/c before traveling to get it cold, but the 12 vdc part uses 8 amps and the cooler we have doesn't even come close to that. I'm not sure I want to run on propane while traveling but may give it a shot to see how works.

[Joe Z]

Like PeterH posted above I never once used the DC Part of the fridge...... cool it off on ac current the night before then switch over to gas for a very economical fridge...even while traveling.... wonder if the ac/propane only fridge is much cheaper than the three way?

[Wade W.]

[quote]I wanted to go electric / solar and not have a propane fridge. So purchased one of the small low energy use Tundra 12 volt refrigerators (uses about 4.5 amps when it runs which I figure comes to about 50 amps hrs a day. Had to cut the opening a little taller but if fit where the old one was. I had enough room to keep the drawer above it. Started with a 75 watt solar panel but found it didn't keep things going more that a couple of days without drawing the batteries down. I added a 120 watt panel to my system and with the total of 195 watts of solar panels I have enough power to run the fridge, lights and computer without running down the batteries.

I have a small microwave that runs off of 120 volts and an inverter but so far have only used it when on shore power.


Attachment 22710


Thanks for the info and link...that's an option that I had not thought about but will consider as I look into solar and my required load.

[Wade W.]

We have no real use for 12v cooling in our fridge. We've found that plugging in the night before to get everything nice and cold, then packing our cold storage stuff inside with plastic bins of ice keeps our fridge nice and cold until we're at our destination. When we set-up we plug in or switch the propane on, and we're happy campers.

Nice work on your modifications...thanks for posting the link Peter

[Wade W.]

This is a very common "Fix" when people are confronted with the sticker shock of gas/electric absorption units. Are the vents to the outside still in place within the refridgerator space of the kitchen cabinet? Since the Burro kitchen unit is a molded-in part of the interior, I would think that sealing the fridge from the interior would be less of a hassle than in other trailers...

If you use "Blue Ice" packs, your Dorm Fridge might be used as a "Hybrid" Ice Box. Just one alternative.

In my case, when my 31 year old absorption refridgerator fails, I'm going to pay the price to have it replaced with a new 3-way unit.

Yes both the exterior upper and lower vents are still in place for proper air flow...the interior of the dorm fridge is so small that it would be unusable if blue ice packs were used. Two soda cans and a pack of bacon and you're done. You are correct about the compartment sealing issue being easier than other models but it still requires some type of box insert. Since the outside vents are still in place that makes it less work though.

[Wade W.]

I replaced the fridge in our 13' Burro with an air conditioner and additional pan storage above it, We picked up a Coleman 12v cooler in 2004 , and are still using it, and I figure with the 17 Burro we now have I will transport stuff in the cooler and transfer over to the built in fridge. Minor adjustments along the way but all bases should be covered. Of course we will run the fridge on A/c before traveling to get it cold, but the 12 vdc part uses 8 amps and the cooler we have doesn't even come close to that. I'm not sure I want to run on propane while traveling but may give it a shot to see how works.

Running on propane while traveling opens up issues for gas stops and tunnels, you definitely don't want an open flame pilot anywhere near a gas pump
Cabela's has a great sale on Extreme coolers this week so I will definitely add that to the tow vehicle.

[Raya]

Actually, having seen the kitchen cabinet on a U-haul (which I think is the same as a Burro), I don't think there would be much difference in sealing off the fridge on that than on a Boler/clone that is not "double hulled." That's because the kitchen unit on the U-haul/Burro is still "open" in that it is open to the rest of the kitchen unit (and, in fact, probably even more open to the rest of the camper behind the rest of the "double hull." The lower kitchen unit on my Boler is essentially sealed to the outside walls all around itself, but I could still easily get combustion byproducts into the camper through the stove openings, the lower cupboard doors, the drawer, etc.

On my boler there is an aluminum (or maybe it's galvanized metal - in any case it's like HVAC ductwork metal) enclosure that runs around the sides of the fridge and seals it off from the rest of the kitchen cabinet. I don't think it's hermetically sealed, but it is probably more than adequate. You could probably accomplish the same thing with plywood and duct tape, although it wouldn't be elegant. You could use metal ductwork like in the Boler, or fiberglass tabbed to the hull, or etc.

A cooler is darned simple though, if you have access to ice blocks, or can make them. And you can move it outside if you cook out there, and take it back into your house to load up, empty, or clean; so they do have advantages.

Raya