Getting repairs done - advice & comments welcome - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-13-2010, 07:44 PM   #1
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Getting repairs done - advice & comments welcome

I'm here in mid-Minnesota for 2 weeks, and thought I'd take advantage of being near the Scamp factory to get some minor work done.
Am planning to have them:
1)remove and replace roof vent, to deal with leak
2) rehang door, for better fit (can see daylight around the edges, but closes fine, stays closed, locks fine).
3) replace window cranking mechanism - gears stripped.

They've told me they can do all of this in one day; with costs of under $200, unless entire window has to be replaced.

Any advice you'd provide would be welcome - any questions I should ask, boundaries I should set?? (e.g. butyl tape, etc. etc.)

Thanks very much for any advice or comments.
KarenH
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:03 PM   #2
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Sounds like a fair deal to me. Just know, you may have problems with the window. You should probably know what needs to be done, from what I understand fixing the stripped gears in jalousie windows is no big deal... but I don't have any first hand knowledge of that.
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:33 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Sounds like a fair deal to me. Just know, you may have problems with the window. You should probably know what needs to be done, from what I understand fixing the stripped gears in jalousie windows is no big deal... but I don't have any first hand knowledge of that.
Hi Donna - thanks for your quick reply - could you clarify your third sentence "you should probably know what needs to be done"???
sorry for being dense.
Regarding the window, I don't know what needs to be done - I know the gear is stripped, and it looks as though the gear mechanism can only be replaced by taking out the entire window. That seems silly to me, but I'm not a window-designer!
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:37 PM   #4
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Let me see if I can find a jalousie window thread. Give me sometime, the search engine in this new softwear is whanky.

What I think may happen is you'll get to Scamp and they won't have the parts needed to fix the window, so they'll try to sell you a new window. The old jalousies are neat! Maybe Raya can help with repair advice...
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:00 PM   #5
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That sounds like a fantastic deal to me. And the best part is that you know you will be dealing with pros, who have done this type of work many times, and most importantly they are used to this type of trailer.

My last trip to the repair shop had a work order for: reconnect brake wires on one side, replace welded on coupler with new, replace manual jack stand with new. They reconnected the brake wires, decided cutting off the old coupler was too much work so they cleaned and oiled it and the old jack stand.
Now make sure you're sitting down.... my bill came to $300+ shop supplies +tax!
The trailer's first, and hopefully last time to the repair shop. I paid, just to bring my baby back home, and it will never see the inside of that shop again. Robbery!

Yes, you have a great deal there. Even with my bad experience, if I were looking to have done the work you listed, this is a fair price and I would do it without hesitation.
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:36 PM   #6
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A couple of things I would check:

1) I believe they recommend silicone sealant in their manual, so I would make sure they are not going to use that. Also, when I asked about their putty tape (was going to buy some) they said it was not butyl. I would want butyl.

2) There are operators sold for our older windows, but I would -- as Donna suggests -- make sure they have them in stock. Vintage Trailer Supply carries them. Officially, I believe you have to disassemble the window (even beyond removing it) to replace the operator; however, I have seen two different methods online for ways to do it without doing that. One involved making a tiny cut in the metal that would be covered up on reassembly; the other involved taking out the rod. As in the vent, I would want to be sure they are not using silicone or non-butyl tape.

I would be a little worried about them saying they could replace the window if they need to. The new windows are radius-cornered, and aren't yours square-cornered? They don't even make the square-cornered ones anymore, so unless Scamp has some in "old stock," they would have to fiberglass in the openings, and re-paint or re-gelcoat the trailer (plus I imagine you would want both windows to match if this is a dinette window).

3) I would want to be sure that re-hanging the door was the best fix. There are a number of reasons for doors not fitting just right, and many of them would not be solved by re-hanging. I might be a bit more comfortable if they had said they would take a look at it, determine the cause and fix, and then fix it.

Personally, I can't imagine how they could do all that work for $200. If labor is even $60 per hour (which seems low), that is only a shade over 2 hours' work (considering that you would also be paying for parts -- butyl tape/sealant, and window operators). How could a vent even be removed, cleaned up, and re-sealed/re-installed in that amount of time?

Raya
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:45 PM   #7
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Thanks Raya for your detailed comments. I've decided that if they don't have the operator for the window, I won't have the whole thing replaced with something that doesnt match. Regarding the door, they said maybe replacing the ?beading? (there isn't anythng there right now). And, regarding the vent, I called them today, and they want to use 'putty tape', and silicone. I said I'd prefer no silicone, and I went out and bought two tubes of butyl rubber sealant - no butyl tape available. Hopefully they'll have some butyl tape, but if not, wouldn't the sealant serve the purpose? And, what do they seal the new rivets with? Thx
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:06 PM   #8
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Hi Karen,

Butyl caulk works well; it's just messier than butyl tape. But I would not use putty tape, as it is much more "brittle" and less long lasting than the "stretchy" butyl.

I believe they use rivets with plastic caps, and then seal them with silicone. The rivets themselves are similar, and the caps are an addition. Personally, I would not have them put the caps on, because you would have a mish-mash of rivet styles (and you cannot add caps to the existing rivets). I also would not allow any silicone on my trailer. Polyurethane caulk would work well. The butyl caulk might work too; I would have to check on that.

Raya
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Old 09-18-2010, 10:09 AM   #9
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Trailer: 1975 Boler 1300 TV 2009 Mazda Tribute, 4 cyl, 5 spd trans.
Posts: 77
Repairs - update

Thanks to all who commented on my request - here's an update.

Regarding my repair work, I went into the factory, and they did what I asked :
they did use the butyl tape I had located; reversed the vent (I had known it had been installed backward); used butyl caulk around the edge of it (what a messy material to work with); inserted a missing screw in the window mechanism (but gear is still stripped and I'll deal with that next spring); installed weatherstripping around the door frame. Total cost, $150.

BUT, interior leak still exists - maybe it wasn't coming from the vent?

AND now, the door leaks - driving back from the factory in a rain storm drenched inside the door; door is nearly impossible to close (weather stripping too thick?); and 2 windows leak which didn't before.

I can't blame the factory; they did what I asked, and even let me watch so I could learn; but, I continue to be frustrated by my lack of ability to do these things myself!!

I'm off now to buy some non-silicone caulk for the windows; will trim the weatherstripping a bit and see if that helps (rain expected tomorrow). That's what I can manage here on the road.

If those don't work, I may just bungee a blue tarp over the whole Boler, and call it good enough!

(Am on my way to the Albuquerque Baloon Fiesta - do you think a Boler with a blue tarp cover would stand out at all


Quote:
Originally Posted by Raya L. View Post
Hi Karen,

Butyl caulk works well; it's just messier than butyl tape. But I would not use putty tape, as it is much more "brittle" and less long lasting than the "stretchy" butyl.

I believe they use rivets with plastic caps, and then seal them with silicone. The rivets themselves are similar, and the caps are an addition. Personally, I would not have them put the caps on, because you would have a mish-mash of rivet styles (and you cannot add caps to the existing rivets). I also would not allow any silicone on my trailer. Polyurethane caulk would work well. The butyl caulk might work too; I would have to check on that.

Raya
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Old 09-18-2010, 12:16 PM   #10
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Karen,

Augh! Leaks can be very frustrating, especially when you are on the road.

I would suggest not caulking around the outside of things now though. You will only have to remove it to re-bed the windows properly, and so you'll be making more work for yourself (the sealant that is doing the work will be under the window flanges).

But, I can recommend something that is easy and works well (not a bad combo, eh?):

3M 225 Weather Resistant Masking Tape

This looks a bit like duct tape, as it is silvery, but noooOOOOOooo, it is not the same at all. This is a tape that is meant to survive outside for a month or so with no problems. It is tearable by hand and easy to apply. Regular masking tape - and even the blue or green tape - would be *concrete* by that time, and you would be chipping it off bit by painful bit Not that I've ever had to do that before

I used some 3M 225 on my window flanges last year, when I knew I would not be able to get to them to caulk them. Yes, I said last year ! And I live in an area of hot, beating sun. I finally went to work on the windows about a month ago, figuring that even with the "weather resistant" tape I would having an epic battle to remove it. Nope. Came right off, and a quick swipe of 3M adhesive remover took care of the little bit of residue. That is after having kept my windows bone dry for over a year!

So, I would suggest the 3M 225 in a 2" width. The silver will blend in with your windows, so you won't look like a total jalopy

To make prep easy, since you are on the road, you can just go into any drug store or big store with a pharmacy type area, and pick up a box of alcohol wipes in individual packets (like tiny flat ketchup packets). Just rip one open, clean off an area, and quickly wipe it dry with a clean paper towel (you are wiping off any contaminants, so don't use that bit of towel again). Then put the tape on. Easy peasy, and you are good to go until you get time to take the windows out and re-seal them properly.

As I alluded to above, sealant on the outside of a window or vent is not really doing much to speak of. It's more of a band-aid. Well, no, because band-aids do what they are meant to do Let's just say that the real, working sealant should all be under the flange.

Raya
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:38 AM   #11
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Trailer: 1975 Boler 1300 TV 2009 Mazda Tribute, 4 cyl, 5 spd trans.
Posts: 77
repairs - update

Thanks Raya, I'll buy some 3M tape today, and apply it this aft.
I sure appreciate your quick replies, and the clarity and detail of your comments. What a woman!

Karen

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raya L. View Post
Karen,

Augh! Leaks can be very frustrating, especially when you are on the road.

I would suggest not caulking around the outside of things now though. You will only have to remove it to re-bed the windows properly, and so you'll be making more work for yourself (the sealant that is doing the work will be under the window flanges).

But, I can recommend something that is easy and works well (not a bad combo, eh?):

3M 225 Weather Resistant Masking Tape

This looks a bit like duct tape, as it is silvery, but noooOOOOOooo, it is not the same at all. This is a tape that is meant to survive outside for a month or so with no problems. It is tearable by hand and easy to apply. Regular masking tape - and even the blue or green tape - would be *concrete* by that time, and you would be chipping it off bit by painful bit Not that I've ever had to do that before

I used some 3M 225 on my window flanges last year, when I knew I would not be able to get to them to caulk them. Yes, I said last year ! And I live in an area of hot, beating sun. I finally went to work on the windows about a month ago, figuring that even with the "weather resistant" tape I would having an epic battle to remove it. Nope. Came right off, and a quick swipe of 3M adhesive remover took care of the little bit of residue. That is after having kept my windows bone dry for over a year!

So, I would suggest the 3M 225 in a 2" width. The silver will blend in with your windows, so you won't look like a total jalopy

To make prep easy, since you are on the road, you can just go into any drug store or big store with a pharmacy type area, and pick up a box of alcohol wipes in individual packets (like tiny flat ketchup packets). Just rip one open, clean off an area, and quickly wipe it dry with a clean paper towel (you are wiping off any contaminants, so don't use that bit of towel again). Then put the tape on. Easy peasy, and you are good to go until you get time to take the windows out and re-seal them properly.

As I alluded to above, sealant on the outside of a window or vent is not really doing much to speak of. It's more of a band-aid. Well, no, because band-aids do what they are meant to do Let's just say that the real, working sealant should all be under the flange.

Raya
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