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11-14-2017, 01:10 PM
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#1
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Member
Name: BJ
Trailer: 2019 Escape 21' Formerly 2015 Escape 19'
Wisconsin
Posts: 51
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HELP changing anode in water heater
Escape 19: we are trying to change out the anode in the hot water heater and my husband is having trouble seating it so the screw threads do not cross. Any tricks? The weight of the anode portion pulls the alignment out so it is difficult to get properly seated.
Suggestions requested
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11-14-2017, 01:49 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: Escape 21 & Jeep GC 5.7 (Previous 2012 Casita FD17 & 2010 Audi Q5)
Puget Sound, WA
Posts: 1,775
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...patience and care, maybe a socket that will hold the "nut" tighter and allow a better "grip" and provide leverage with a short extension...
...perhaps wrapping the "nut" with blue tape or saran wrap to tighten the grip of the existing socket...
...more patience and care...
You'll get there!
__________________
~ “It’s absurd to divide people into good and bad. People are either charming or tedious.” Oscar Wilde ~
~ “What the human being is best at doing is interpreting all new information so that their prior conclusions remain intact.” Warren Buffett ~
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11-14-2017, 01:51 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 2016 Escape 19
Tennessee
Posts: 264
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That is definitely the worst part of emptying the water heater. You just have to be patient. I know it's difficult to do, but you have to put downward pressure on the head of the anode while pushing it in, to try and get things aligned. It probably took me an hour to get it right the first time, but it gets easier every time I do it now
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11-14-2017, 02:57 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Jim
Trailer: 2015 Casita 17SD
Florida
Posts: 176
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Stuff some foam or something in the socket that will put pressure on the bolt so that the threads stay lined up.
Or you could turn the trailer on its side and use the power of gravity.
__________________
"...I keep blowin' down the road."
2015 Casita 17' Spirit Deluxe
2002 Toyota Tundra V8
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11-14-2017, 03:22 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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May I ask what brand water heater this is???
Quote:
Originally Posted by bjsmitty
Escape 19: we are trying to change out the anode in the hot water heater and my husband is having trouble seating it so the screw threads do not cross. Any tricks? The weight of the anode portion pulls the alignment out so it is difficult to get properly seated.
Suggestions requested
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11-14-2017, 03:54 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Name: A
Trailer: Escape
California
Posts: 18
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Takes a little pratice, but not too bad. I use 2 hands, left index finger in front of the hole to help support. The important thing is to raise the anode so it's pointing up, so use your left index finger as a teeter-totter to help your right hand push down (lifting the anode end) as it turns the threads. Make sure there's no debris in the threads either. Good luck!
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11-15-2017, 07:40 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 2016 Escape 19
Tennessee
Posts: 264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T.
May I ask what brand water heater this is???
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I'm thinking it's an Atwood brand, but since I'm stuck at work, can't go look
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11-15-2017, 08:26 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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If it's an Atwood, they're aluminum and do NOT need an "anode" rod. They just need "flushing" periodically. I've ran my for 7 yrs now with no anode rod. The "steel" tanks are the ones that need it. (Suburban)
Quote:
Originally Posted by GregandTeresa
I'm thinking it's an Atwood brand, but since I'm stuck at work, can't go look
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11-15-2017, 11:29 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 1,279
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Get a 6 point 1-1/16 socket. Stuff it with paper to leave just enough depth to take the hex head of the anode. If it's not a snug fit wrap a layer of tape on it.
DO NOT use "lots of teflon tape" as another writer said.
But, make sure all old teflon is removed and the threads are clean. Wrap only two layers of teflon, starting one thread in from the end, and in the same direction you turn to tighten.
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11-15-2017, 11:32 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Walter
Trailer: 2017 Escape 17B
SW Virginia
Posts: 2,255
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It's important to use a six cornered socket to hold it tight. I do have to fiddle a bit to get it lined up but always manage after a few tries.
It would be a Suburban heater. The Atwoods are aluminum and don't use an Anode.
Oops, I see Darral already reported that, so I'm just verifying.
I wish all manufacturers would use the Atwood so we could dispense with anodes. The only FB manufacturer I know that does is Bigfoot. If I ever have to replace mine I'd get an Atwood.
Good luck.
Walt
__________________
Past owner of 1995 13' Casita, 1994 16' Casita, 2012 Parkliner, 2002 17' Bigfoot.
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11-15-2017, 11:39 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft Plan B
Posts: 2,388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjsmitty
Escape 19: we are trying to change out the anode in the hot water heater and my husband is having trouble seating it so the screw threads do not cross. Any tricks? The weight of the anode portion pulls the alignment out so it is difficult to get properly seated.
Suggestions requested
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Since i keep a roll of quarters in the truck, I stack enough in the socket so that the anode bolt head just fits in the deep socket. That lets you put direct pressure on the bolt, making it easier to align & start the threads. Others have suggested washers, but the quarters fit & I have them handy...
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11-15-2017, 11:44 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Lee
Trailer: Casita
Texas
Posts: 493
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I hope he is starting by screwing it in by hand. That way you won't cross thread it and once you have turned it a couple of times you can then put a socket on it. If you start out by putting a socket on it you take a chance of cross threading it. I have been wrenching on things my whole life and have never cross threaded anything when starting it by hand. I have cross threaded a few things when starting out with a wrench or socket.
__________________
Lee
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11-15-2017, 11:46 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,707
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Years ago, my father taught me anything metal to metal that's threaded you start by using your fingers, not a tool. An anode is just weird. It's long so actually wants to tip down while you're trying to get the threads started and holding your mouth just right too
IF you can get your hand in there and slightly tip the rod up... just a tad, you may find it easier to get it started. If the threads are clean, and everything is lined up just right it actually goes in pretty easy. Next time, muscle memory will help. And remember, the rod only needs to be tight enough to NOT leak. You don't need to use a torque wrench.
On edit: Lee I just read your post. We both must have been typing at the same time! I wonder if whomever taught you and my Dad were twins separated at birth!
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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11-15-2017, 11:55 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Robert
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Past Tents" 2018 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB SuperCrew
Arkansas
Posts: 1,298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
And remember, the rod only needs to be tight enough to NOT leak. You don't need to use a torque wrench.
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Yes, but a torque wrench will help prevent overtightening as well, as long as you set it to around 8 ft-lbs. Here's an instruction sheet from Camco:
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
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11-15-2017, 12:09 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Lee
Trailer: Casita
Texas
Posts: 493
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Donna D. Maybe. I have always enjoyed working with my hands and I know I have saved a fortune by doing my own maintenance. I have changed out my anode a few times and have noticed that the weight of the anode rod makes it a little difficult to get started where the threads properly engage. I just push down a little on the end of the anode when screwing it in to compensate and it has worked every time for me. I don't use a torque wrench even though I have one, I just have a feel for how snug it should be and that works for me.
__________________
Lee
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12-09-2017, 09:39 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Bob Ruggles
Trailer: 2015 Escape
Michigan
Posts: 1,537
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I had all kinds of problems getting it back in until I sat on a stool to thread it in. Seems that the lower approach made it easier to align the rod with the threads.
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12-09-2017, 09:43 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Lee
Trailer: Casita
Texas
Posts: 493
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I call them milk buckets and at my age it isn't a luxury but a necessity.
__________________
Lee
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12-11-2017, 01:12 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Anne
Trailer: 2014 Parkliner 2016 Honda Pilot
North Carolina
Posts: 197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeBreez
Stuff some foam or something in the socket that will put pressure on the bolt so that the threads stay lined up.
Or you could turn the trailer on its side and use the power of gravity.
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I had the same problem as the OP. Just could NOT get the darn thing lined up. Given the lack of space to turn it on its side <_<, I put a piece of gravel in the socket and I could hold the rod in the correct position. Worked like a charm. A big thank you!!! (Should have saved the magic rock!)
-- Anne
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05-02-2018, 05:52 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
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Just wanted to thank everyone that contributed to this thread.
I tried and tried and couldn't seat the anode. I wrapped electrical tape around the nut and filled the socket with quarters. Screwed in 1st try.
I'm sure most of you already know this, but the water tank can be pressurized even when the heater element is not on. Drain your system before removing the anode. (Fortunately my experience was with cold water!)
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05-02-2018, 05:56 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Bob Ruggles
Trailer: 2015 Escape
Michigan
Posts: 1,537
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I had a terrible time getting it started. When I sat down on a stool it went very easily.
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