Help with silicone removal

[Tom & Keith]

So are Casita's copycats, or were they a septic company too?

I never thought to ask how to remove silicone when I had to replace the Stove exhaust vent. But I didn't plan on breaking it the day I needed to know either.

I had to use an exacto knife to cut through the Caulk/Silicone that was used to seal around it in the 1st place, after I had drilled out the rivets.

I used Goo-Gone, and a plastic putty knife. The Goo Gone didn't hurt the Gel Coat, but I don't think it did a lot to help remove the silicone. That was more elbow grease with the putty knife than anything.

I had bought an extra stove exhaust vent, and 2 holding tank vents when I was ordering something else online, and the shipping was free once I got to a certain amount. I knew the Stove vent was going to need to be replaced, I just hadn't planned on smashing it with the ladder.

I'll keep an eye on this thread to see what ends up working best. I still haven't replaced the 2 vents on the top yet, and I know there will be lots to remove from them.

Tom

[Pete Dumbleton]

Benny, I dunno who first mentioned it -- I've never tried it myself -- I have used swimming pool acid to remove rust stains from fiberglass boats (with plenty of running water) because it goes right down into the gelcoat and gets the absorbed rust.

[Donna D.]

So are Casita's copycats, or were they a septic company too?

Tom, there are a bunch of copycats of the original Boler. Basically, Boler's started the egg revolution...but then sold the rights to produce the Boler to several US manufacturers and sold molds to even other manufacturers to produce an egg under their own name. There's been estimated to be between 6 and 12 different brand names used on Boler look-a-like's. Some manufactures only produced a couple of trailers before going out of business. Scamp started manufacturing under the name of "Acorn," and only produced a couple of trailers before the name change to Scamp. Scamp was and is a family owned business. But as with some families there was a disagreement and a few of that family split off and started Casita in Texas.

So, you see one way or another all the egg owners are related, either through molds, history or the family connection

Anyone else have more information?

[George Cathcart]

Try some "Re-Mov".

It's a new product designed specifically to remove old silicone. It should now, or soon, be available at any Sherwin-Williams paint store nationally or they can order it for you.

We happened to be one of the early users and testers as the product was developed---we used it to remove gross silicone caulk on fiberglass and tile shower and tub surrounds on our apartment projects. It worked quite well---better than any other method we had ever used---but still requires some elbow grease. The liquid seems to attack the contact area. You have to work it in some, particularly on old silicone. Then the silcone pretty well peals off in most cases.

That said, I've not yet had to remove any caulk on the Casita, but won't hesitate to use it.

http://www.re-mov.com/index.php?option=com...ge&Itemid=1

Note on the manufacturer's website, they offer a total refund if you're dissatisfied---just contact them and tell them why it might not have worked for your application.

[Morgan]

George Cathcart,

Haven't seen you around for some time. Welcome back.

[John Perry]

Yes please, let us know. Silicone removal is the bane of all fiberglassTT owners.

Guess you know you should try it in an inconspicious spot in case it damages the gel coat

I appreciate all of the suggestions. The only thing that the guaranteed silicone remover has worked on is gum on the carpet of my Burro.
When you take an 8 year old camping I guess dirty carpet is to be expected.

Thanks again for all of your suggestions,
John Perry

[Roger H]

I suggested, pre-hack, that since curing silicone out-gasses acetic acid, that acetic acid may be the way to remove it. None of the research I've been able to do on line suggests that to be accurate in any way though. In thinking this through, whatever concoction you used would have to be applied and be in contact with the cured silicone for some time to penetrate and dissolve it as cured silicone is, by design, non-porous and impenetrable.

Here's an interesting product from Australia... it says it may have a strong heat reaction with bases, so it's undoubtedly acidic in nature. It is also apparently a gel and needs to be left on the surface for a lengthy period of time for it to work. Sounds like nasty stuff!

Selley's Silicone Remover

Roger

[Roy in TO]

So are Casita's copycats, or were they a septic company too?

Tom

I think they were copycats of sorts. I started a thread on boler history hoping other's here could fill in some of the blanks. I've found more info on the Boler but have yet to post it.

If I understand it correctly, Boler was the start. Franchised to Elanor International to produce the Boler American in 71 which was not around for long. Mold sold to what we now know as Scamp originally produced as an Acorn. 1st Casita's were made in Backus, MN in 1981 and a division happened. Can't confirm why, rumours of a family thing or differences in opinion over plywood vs. FG floor. Somewhere in all of that the Evelands fit in. Oddly enought the Canadian Bolers seem to have FG floor pans like the Casita's

The info is out there, nobody seems to have compiled it all into one document. Would you care to research the Casita end of things Tom?

Roy

[Catherine H.]

Or, you can save your money and use your hair dryer.

I like this idea of a hair dryer. Look how it comes right off. Is that for real? Has that NOT worked for anyone? I'd far rather use the dryer, if it's as easy as it looks in Myron's pic.
Catherine

[Sonny]

I`ve used scrapers and various chemicals, but the plastic scraper works best according to the posts and then clean the area with vinegar a few times.....apparently silicone has acetic acid in it and vinegar is about 7% acetic acid and this is supposed to work......I`m one of the few people on this site that uses silicone among other caulks on my fiberglass trailers and have success with it....you can`t just gloop it on all over.....also used to use it a lot at work as an adhesive/sealant on glass and acrylic and Lexan plastics...and it worked very well......I don`t know about now, but at one time fish aquariums used to be glued together with silicone and also as gaskets in auto and diesel engines and on aluminum crankcases of 2 stroke/cycle engines in snowmobiles and I guess motorcycles also.......both tubs in our home are sealed with silicone without a problem......I believe that the problems associated with silicone use are improper surface preparation and application......anyway...off on a tangent here!....Benny

Here is my two cents...

I just read this post after not being on here for a while. I agree with Benny! RTV, or silicone sealer as it is more widely known, is a very good sealer if used properly. Just the fact that it is so difficult to remove, testifies that it has great adhesion to surfaces. The problem is when the surface is not cleaned properly before applying the sealer. Also, silicone can be a real mess if great care is not used in applying it.

The other thing is that a thin layer of silicone will tear if there is too much movement between two parts. This can be overcome by using a heavier bead of sealant.

This stuff is really good if used in the right application. It has low strength in thin cross section, but good adhesion, and great weather resistance.

To remove silicone sealant from plastic or Lexan, try Release made by Boatlife. It is an old product of their's that was made to remove adhesives and sealant on boats. Wait till you spray it on old bumper stickers, even your sticking printer. Works like a charm. I found it on their web site.

Try also make a product especially to seal windshields. Works great and won't yellow.

Happy Camping