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Old 04-09-2014, 07:28 AM   #1
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How level is level?

I've heard that it can be hard on the fridge if it is used when the trailer is not level. So what is level, or, I guess, what is not level? I have a level app, and raising the trailer one side an inch or two (athwartship) does not seem to make a lot of difference. As long as I'm not low on the head side (sleeping) it does not seem to be a big problem. (fore and aft I can set with my legs) Is leveling the trailer to the inch a little OCD, or is it something we all should be doing if we want our fridges to survive? Is the non-level fridge killing myth or fact?
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Old 04-09-2014, 07:46 AM   #2
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I can generally feel if the Oliver is not level. I do have levelers mounted inside the coach. I can tweak the outside jacks from the inside if needed. As far as the fridge goes, the more level it is, the better. Does it have to be perfect? No, but if you can tell the trailer is not level by the way it feels when you're inside, then it is too much out of level for the refrigerator to work properly.
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Old 04-09-2014, 07:51 AM   #3
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I would not rely on the app and just carry a regular small level and do side to side and front to rear. As Steve says, if you are comfortable inside then it is pretty much level.
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Old 04-09-2014, 08:34 AM   #4
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DOMETIC Refrigerator Leveling

If you have a DOMETIC refrigerator, the following is the company line on leveling.

FIRST: Determine if you have an Early or a Late design Refrigerator

Early Design: Has a Square edge cover around the boiler, that's the big vertical thing on the back of the refrigerator.

Late Design: Has a Round boiler cover

SECOND: Level as follows:

EARLY Design refrigerators are more sensitive to being level when operating and should be level within 1/2 a bubble width as measures on a Bulls Eye level placed on the freezer floor section. (Dometic used to supply a bulls-eye level with these refrigerators, they are available at any RV store and even Wal-Mart.

LATE Design refrigerators are less sensitive to being operated out of level and the rule basically sez to "Level the trailer until comfortable for it's occupants" (Dometic no longer provides levels with new refrigerators.

I "Super Level" my trailers refrigerator one time with a bulls eye level, then I attach outside levels, center front and directly over the axle center, indicating "0" tilt and use those for all future leveling. The 40+ y.o. Dometic in my Hunter still works great on both 120 VAC as well as LP.



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Old 04-09-2014, 09:17 AM   #5
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On the level is when the blood does not rush to your head.
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Old 04-09-2014, 09:51 AM   #6
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I like it with the passenger side of Scamp just a hair lower. That way the bathroom door will stay open when I am taking a shower.
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:11 PM   #7
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Wallo: Also, the air conditioner water runoff, runs off the back side of the camper.
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Old 04-09-2014, 01:46 PM   #8
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I like the round bubble levels.
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Old 04-09-2014, 01:58 PM   #9
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Yep, that's also called a "BullsEye" level.

BTW: I tried the square bubble type one time, didn't like them at all. LOL



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Old 04-09-2014, 02:14 PM   #10
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My old 3 way fridge in my Scamp seems to run more effectively when its level. It doesnt have a built in level so I just leave a Bulls Eye type level pictured above on the bottom of the fridge to confirm its level. If I put the level on the counter or the floor I often get a different reading though, which suggests the fridge although it looks to be to the eye it isn't actually level with either the counter or the floor.
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Old 04-09-2014, 03:35 PM   #11
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+1 on I level fridge. And fridge does not match the counter or other stuff exactly. But if the dishes don't slide off counter then it is level enough for my needs.

May stick a bulls eye in the fridge, I have a short 6" level I use now. Smaller is better (says the owner of a 13 ft.) :-)
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
......the square bubble.......
Now Bob, you know there ain't no such thing as a "square bubble"

But I did see a square punkin' once....
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:59 PM   #13
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Sure there are... take a look at 2:25 into this video and he will show you how to make your own.....



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Old 04-09-2014, 06:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Yep, that's also called a "BullsEye" level.

BTW: I tried the square bubble type one time, didn't like them at all. LOL
Yea "BullsEye". I couldn't for the life of me think of that name. LOL
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Old 04-09-2014, 06:18 PM   #15
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Square Bubble movie......Someone definitely has tooooooo much spare time !!!!
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Old 04-09-2014, 07:09 PM   #16
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I'm with Carol. I place a bullseye level on the floor of the refrigerator and level to that. Easy peasy with a BAL leveler! When the refrigerator is happy, I'm happy.
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Old 04-09-2014, 08:50 PM   #17
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Old 04-10-2014, 05:22 AM   #18
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Generally speaking, front to back level is more critical than side to side. Has to do with the slope of the coils that zig zag back and forth when you look at the back of the refrig.

Be sceptical of the factory installed bubbles as I believe they're installed with the frame level but the refrigs aren't always level with repect to the frame. A one-time check of a bubble level on the refrig floor vs. the trailer mounted levels can be helpful. And those bubble levels are pretty cheap. In fact, you don't need any kind of expensive level for trailer levelling purposes.
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Old 04-10-2014, 05:43 AM   #19
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Thanks, Steve, that's what I was looking for.
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Old 04-10-2014, 06:35 AM   #20
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According to Dometic Tech Support, in EARLY design Dometic units (the ones with the square edge boiler cover, BOTH directions are equally important when it come to leveling.

I was told, again by Dometic, that it has to do with residues in the cooling circuit being kept in suspension or they can build up at a "Drain" in the system and eventually obstruct flow, stopping the circuit.

Again, that was their laymen's explanation and it works for moi.

Best bet, as with most appliances, is to start by reading the manual. If you don't have one, about 99% of them can be found on-line for free.



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