How much torque after wheel bearing repacking? - Fiberglass RV
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Old 07-23-2017, 12:45 PM   #1
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Exclamation How much torque after wheel bearing repacking?

Hello. My husband and I are going to make our first attempt at repacking the wheel bearings on the 2003 Scamp 13" we acquired last summer.

I came across this warning on an online tutorial:

"always consult your trailer’s service manual or contact the manufacturer to know how tightly you should torque your trailer wheels during re-installation"

I have not been able to locate this information. I don't even understand how you measure torque.

Please advise!

Jennifer in Denver
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Old 07-23-2017, 02:39 PM   #2
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I tighten them down to where I can barely turn the wheel by hand. Turn it a few turns then back off until the wheel turns freely with out any in and out movement. To loose they will wear tires uneven and may mess up the inner seal. If they are to tight they will heat up and fail.
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Old 07-23-2017, 02:54 PM   #3
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How much torque???

I strongly advise you go to your local libarary and check out a beginners automotive maintenance book.

I know you are not working on a automobile.

But, in the beginning of the book, it should provide reference information
on tightening of bolts, nuts, wheel bearings, etc..

It will show that "torque" is the rotational application of force when tightening a bolt or screw.

Here is where you should pay the most attention.

"""When you are applying force (torque) be aware "and beware" of the amount of torque you apply. A little bit of torque (called inch pounds) is a lot different than a whole bunch (called foot pounds. When you are tightening the lugs nuts to hold on your wheels, you will be using "foot pounds". Wheel bearing nuts will not be applied as tight as lug nuts on your wheels. Many instruction manuals may only say to tighten the wheel bearing nut to point where the bearing seat in the bearing races then back off the bearing nut to the next locking point on the castellated nut.

Also, use the proper grease(lubricant), wear some type of throw away gloves when applying the grease, and keep the grease away from all dirt.

But, really go to the local libarary, after all, YOUR tax dollars pay for it.
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Old 07-23-2017, 03:11 PM   #4
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An example of a torque wrench (to tighten to a given torque) is:

GearWrench 3/8 in. Drive Beam Torque Wrench-2956D - The Home Depot
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Old 07-23-2017, 03:31 PM   #5
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Best way to learn is to have an experienced person there to guide you. Do you know anyone that could teach you.
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Old 07-23-2017, 03:49 PM   #6
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There are lots of places where a torque wrench is needed. It is not necessary to use one for wheel bearings. Just clean the old grease out using a solvent. Canned brake cleaner works well. Wearing disposable gloves force the grease into the bearing by holding a blob of grease in the palm of your hand. Force the grease in by rolling the bearing into the blob . The key is keeping everything very clean. If the old bearings have pits or scratches on the rollers, replace them and the races. In any case replace the seals. Then reinstall and adjust using the procedure I posted above. I have packed wheel bearings for many years and have never had a failure. It is not rocket science. I hope this helps.
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Old 07-23-2017, 04:18 PM   #7
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I think you all mis-read the question. They are asking about the torque required to refit the wheels. Its the same torgue you would use after replacing a flat tire......
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Old 07-23-2017, 04:52 PM   #8
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As I recall, the only time you need a torque wrench for wheel bearings is when you have changed the bearings. The torque is to preload the bearing, which is to make sure that the bearing races are completely seated in the bore. After that just back off the nut until the wheel turns easily and install the cotter pin. This last action is the same, whether you are changing the bearing or just repacking.
In both tightening situations, it is a good practice to slowly turn the wheel in the same direction you are turning the nut.

I believe this information is trustworthy:



Don't worry about the dial indicator part. If you follow the procedure, that should be sufficient.

When I am adjusting the bearings, I first make sure that there is no friction between the brake shoes and the drums.

WidgetWizard: actually the question was about the torque for the bearings. However, Jennifer's quote did relate to torquing the wheel nuts.
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Old 07-23-2017, 05:15 PM   #9
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Two separate things being discussed.
Wheel bearing adjustment where torque is difficult to discuss and wheel lugs which are very different.
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Old 07-23-2017, 05:59 PM   #10
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Torque

Thanks all. I know what torque is. I think the quote I posted was referring to the torque needed to hold the hub in place. I/we watched some pretty good videos of the process and I think we figured it out. We used the method suggested here of tightening it all the way, then backing off until it spins freely for a few revolutions, but has no play/wiggle.

There are two things that still concern me though:

1) There was NO cottar pin stuck through either one.

2) Before the process the hubs were noiseless when they spun, after our cleaning and greasing of the correct parts, they make a gritty rubbing sound.

Ideas?
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Old 07-23-2017, 06:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jennifer in Denver View Post

1) There was NO cottar pin stuck through either one.

2) Before the process the hubs were noiseless when they spun, after our cleaning and greasing of the correct parts, they make a gritty rubbing sound.

Ideas?
That first one is scary. The second, assuming you have brakes, is that you have a brake shoe that is a bit off center. This is not uncommon, as the shoes to get bumped off center when you pull the drum to do the bearings. If that's the case, you can pull the drum and bump it back with the heel of your hand. Barring that, you can back the star wheel on the brake adjuster a turn or so.
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Old 07-23-2017, 06:31 PM   #12
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Some axles have a washer with a tab you bend to lock the nut. If it does not have that setup you will need a cotter pin. Does the spindle have cotter pin hole?
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Old 07-23-2017, 06:39 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by The Minimalist View Post
That first one is scary. The second, assuming you have brakes, is that you have a brake shoe that is a bit off center. This is not uncommon, as the shoes to get bumped off center when you pull the drum to do the bearings. If that's the case, you can pull the drum and bump it back with the heel of your hand. Barring that, you can back the star wheel on the brake adjuster a turn or so.
Yes, we have brakes, so I will check out the drum.

Thank you!
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Old 07-23-2017, 06:50 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by charlsara View Post
Some axles have a washer with a tab you bend to lock the nut. If it does not have that setup you will need a cotter pin. Does the spindle have cotter pin hole?
Hmm.

OK. After much searching I found this. This is what we've got in there. Does this mean I don't need a cotter pin?

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories.../RG05-100.html
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Old 07-23-2017, 07:22 PM   #15
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Right. You need to make sure the nuts and washers go back on in the order they came off. Bend the tabs on the tabbed washer to lock the nut. Your good to go[emoji106]
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Old 07-24-2017, 10:07 AM   #16
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Learning. Thanks for all the information.
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Old 07-24-2017, 02:11 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Jennifer in Denver View Post
Hmm.

OK. After much searching I found this. This is what we've got in there. Does this mean I don't need a cotter pin?

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories.../RG05-100.html
If that is what you are using, no bending is required. It just slips over the corners of the nut. But it is easy to check your installation. If you can unscrew the nut more than 1/12 turn with the retaining washer in place, you do not have it right.
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Old 07-24-2017, 02:32 PM   #18
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You have received great information on this site. The go to Library to read a manual is perfect and the tighten up tight, turn the wheel than back off until the wheel moves freely is what I do. Look up a Youtube tutorial on How To Pack the bearings and How to Tighten up the wheel will be most helpful. Me, I like to use the Lucas RED grease.
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Old 07-25-2017, 12:49 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
You have received great information on this site. The go to Library to read a manual is perfect and the tighten up tight, turn the wheel than back off until the wheel moves freely is what I do. Look up a Youtube tutorial on How To Pack the bearings and How to Tighten up the wheel will be most helpful. Me, I like to use the Lucas RED grease.
I agree! I took the whole assembly back off one wheel yesterday to try to figure out the dragging noise. I think it is the brakes rubbing very slightly. Tried to adjust the star wheel ( I think its called) with a small flathead screwdriver but couldn't get it. Will hit the AutoZone today to get the right tool.

This is fun!

Jennifer
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:52 PM   #20
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Jennifer,

It sounds like your scraping noise is the brakes. This is normal. However, don't try to adjust it out before you are sure the brake shoes are centered. Removing and re-installing the drum will knock the shoes off center every time. So, hook up your plug and apply the brakes while spinning the wheel. Spin the wheel in a forward direction and then apply the brakes a couple of times to stop them from turning. This will center the shoes and should stop the noise.

A little bit of brake shoe noise is normal and you can still feel if there is any play in the wheel bearings.

Follow Dexters procedure for adjusting the brakes. Or just adjust them tighter until you begin to notice a bit more drag and no more. Make sure both sides are the same. After your adjustment, try spinning them and stopping them with the brakes as above. If there is noticeable drag, back off the adjustment a click or two and re-center again to look for drag.

They don't have to be absolutely quiet from brake noise while spinning, but they should not have noticeable drag.

There should not be any play in the bearings. Play will develop over time with miles travelled, so you can push and pull on the top of the wheel occasionally, out on the road, to feel for it. They should go long enough to need re-packing before the play becomes excessive and they should all wear at about the same rate if done correctly. Too much play will lead to a dragging brake and indicates a failing bearing.

At every gas stop I touch each hub to look for uneven heat.
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