How to care for our new 1969 Boler - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 05-15-2010, 03:57 PM   #15
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Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,535
It should be a 1 7/8" ball, I'm sure you know that.

Park the trailer on a level surface and crank the tongue jack until the tongue is parallel with the ground (or level if the surface is level). Measure from the ground to the top of the hitch cup. That height must match the ball height on the tug.
...just an add on here, when I did our hitch, I took the trailer to an OBLIGING servie station that allowed me to momentarily use the level surface on his gas pump island, then disconnected the trailer from the tow, leveled and measured it. An extra ounce of prevension is OFTEN better than fussing n fuming about why 'something didn't turn out 100%' even though you followed some super great advice!! I guess some would call it over kill (overreacting) but being out that extra little bit (either way) could make your tow job more of a chore than it needs to be.... (just my 2 worth, Canadian)

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Old 05-16-2010, 10:30 PM   #16
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Trailer: Boler
Posts: 10
Thanks everyone for the tips!

We went out this weekend to Golden Ears as our test run. So glad we did it. Learned little things like - if we plug in the fridge the wrong way it blows hot air not cold.

The propane lines were checked and ok'd in 2008. I don't know how often they should be inspected. I think our hope is next year to have the money to rebuild the kitchen and move the fridge out of the closet and put it back under the stove. Storage space is a premium with 4. Also, is it worth it to put in insulation if it doesn't have any?

However, we have decided that we are going to look into getting the axle done especially after looking at how low are boler is compared to others. We are kicking ourselves that we didn't notice it but then as I said to my husband, I may have noticed that it was low but it wouldn't have meant anything ot me." I think also there might need to be a coat of paint thrown on the cupboard doors.

We are talking about the meet at the end of the month, we're definitely interested just don't know if we are free yet.

I do know that before we went we were feeling a little unsure of our purchase. Finding out about the axle and then a couple of other small things; it seemed like a lot of money compared to the when we upgraded our tent to accommodate our first child. However, after spending some quality time in the sunshine with the it and turning on the heater the second night (we kind of forgot that we had that option) I think that we are looking forward to a long and happy relationship.

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Old 05-19-2010, 04:15 PM   #17
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Name: Rick
Trailer: former Boler, now 1980 Trillium 4500
Posts: 368
Hi Gen,

When I bought my 74 Boler a couple of years ago, the original axle was similarly worn. However, the previous owner had inserted riser bars between the frame and the axle to raise the ride because he had a big truck with a high hitch. We have a lower tow vehicle, so I removed the risers. I had the original bolt-on axle then.

The point is that you can get 1 X 1 or 1 X 2 square steel tubes, maybe a foot long or less, from a place like Princess Auto very cheap. If you have a bolt-on axle, you can drill 2 holes in each one and get a longer bolt to go through them to raise up your axle a bit. This is a way to get the trailer to ride higher off the ground without spending the $400 or so for a new axle.

If you do this, make sure the new bolts are high strength like the old ones, available at a standard nut and bolt shop (the strength number is stamped on the top of the bolts). Also, you should be careful to align the axle when you put it back on so that the wheels line up straight. If they are off alignment, your trailer will try to drag itself off line as you drive. This can result in a fishtail while driving. Miniscule adjustments can fix it, as both I and a friend who did the same thing have found.

Last year I replaced our old axle with a new one, also a bolt-on. The "ride" on the new axle is not really that much better than the old one. I think because the trailer is so light, it still bounces around enough to rattle everything that is not secured, just like the old one did. If you buy a new axle solely to get a smoother ride, the result may not be totally satisfying. As an aside, my particular trailer seems quite a bit lighter than many fibreglass trailers, especially the newer ones with more and fancier (heavier) frame, furniture and accessories. Perhaps a new axle benefits a heavier trailer more than a light one?

Hope that helps,
Rick G

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Old 05-19-2010, 04:29 PM   #18
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Name: Ian or Vicki
Trailer: 17 ft Burro Widebody / 2007 Explorer Sport Trac
British Columbia
Posts: 449
A new axle is a safety issue, not cosmetic. If it needs one, get one. IMHO.

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