How to renovate an old Scamp - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-24-2006, 05:59 PM   #15
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What i did first off was glue the wood on the fiberglass with construction adhesive and held it in place with hot glue. So i would apply adhesive all over then in a few locations(really fast) used the hot glue gun. The hot glue holds everything in place until the construction adhesive hardens.
I got tired of doing this as you have to be really fast and you dont have the time to set something exactly where you want it.
So. Scrapping that idea. I drilled 3/16 holes in the fiberglass about every 5 inches or so. Held my panel up with clamps. Stuck my hand inside with a pencil and traced all the little holes. Pulled off the panel. Drilled all the holes in the panel with drill press. Used construction adhesive again and held the panel in place with clamps. Screwed it in place with 3/4 x #8 wood screws. Worked great. BTW. I did all this with fiberglass cabinets in place. No need to remove them. I can take some pictures if ya like and post them. After all front panels were done i started on the counter top.
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Old 03-24-2006, 06:37 PM   #16
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Used construction adhesive again and held the panel in place with clamps. Screwed it in place with 3/4 x #8 wood screws. Worked great. BTW. I did all this with fiberglass cabinets in place. No need to remove them. I can take some pictures if ya like and post them. After all front panels were done i started on the counter top.
Were the panels very thick? How much weight did you add to the camper. I'm interested in seeing what you've done.
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Old 03-24-2006, 07:19 PM   #17
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I faced everything in solid cherry hardwood. As in cherry hardwood flooring. I had some left over from a previous job so i decided to use it. I cut off all the tongues and grooves and remachined everything. So you could use any plywood or whatever you want. Its just a matter of how you want it to look. The first few pics are the old boler with the 1970s hospital look. Not my cup of tea. The boler came with no fridge, stove, furnace.All the doors are solid cherry with birch plywood incerts. BTW. Birch is an excellent cherry look alike you just have to stain it and it looks exactly like cherry but 1/8th the cost.
The cherry panel by the door is birch as well. Everything else is solid cherry.Weight. I would say 50 lbs.

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Old 03-24-2006, 08:36 PM   #18
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I faced everything in solid cherry hardwood. The first few pics are the old boler with the 1970s hospital look. Not my cup of tea. BTW. Birch is an excellent cherry look alike you just have to stain it and it looks exactly like cherry but 1/8th the cost.
The cherry panel by the door is birch as well. Everything else is solid cherry.Weight. I would say 50 lbs.
Thanks for the tips. It wouldn't kill me to live in something that looked like that. Another idea I'm kicking around incorporates the 1940s New England farmhouse look. Quaint and simple but not arts & craftsy. Again, thin wood with the illusion of depth. Wonder if I should cover the new insulation on the walls with vineer. But now we're talking $$$.

I'll take pictures of what I'm doing and post.

P.S. Is there a couch opposite your galley?
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Old 03-25-2006, 07:19 AM   #19
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Excellent Job Colin
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Old 03-25-2006, 09:14 AM   #20
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Theres a bed/table to the left of galley. A couch/bunk to the right.

Thanks Joe. Once i get the cushions reupholstered and the curtains hung it should look alot less stark.
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Old 03-25-2006, 05:19 PM   #21
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Great job Colin , and thanks for sharing the mounting technique and wood selection tips.
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Old 03-25-2006, 06:00 PM   #22
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I faced everything in solid cherry hardwood....


WOW!
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Old 03-25-2006, 07:54 PM   #23
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I faced everything in solid cherry hardwood....
WOW!
It sounds over the top. But it really isnt. Story is....I did a hardwood floor(spec home) for a guy here and the flooring he bought was a great deal. The reason it was a great deal is because the flooring was garbage. For 1 thing the wood is metric which means its 5/8 thick instead of 3/4. So i had to install a 1/8 subfloor to bring the hardwood to the same level as the tile.(extra day labour cost$$$) 2) The wood looks very impressive just looking at it but when you go to install it. The wood is so brittle and soft every nail you put in the tongue, chips the surface of the flooring.(Extra few hours labour patching floor$$$) So anyways after patching all the chips in his brand new floor and explaining and showing him how crappy the wood was. I decided to buy 3 cases off the guy which would work fine for making cabinets. $90 for 3 cases.
The hardwood is actually perfect for cabinets as it machines really nice because its so soft. Its a little more work but the end product looks great. Should hold up fine for cabinets but i wouldnt want to walk on it which was its intended purpose.
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Old 03-28-2006, 04:38 PM   #24
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Hello Colin,

I am quite impressed and inspired by how great the cabinets look. I am now planning to do the same to my soon to be scamp. Do you see any reason that I couldn't use Hardwood faced ply for the face and Just fabricate the doors out of solid Hardwood? Just trying to make my job easier and less spendy.
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Old 03-28-2006, 07:17 PM   #25
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Sure. I was originally going to use plywood but this hardwood showed up so i used it instead. You have to be more carefull with ply due to the veneer being so thin it chips easily. Also with solid you can ogie all the edges so its a nice finish . Have fun.

BTW. If you look closely at the pic . I made an oven valance out of hardwood . After i finished the top and bottom cabinet i felt it needed a valance.
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Old 03-31-2006, 10:42 AM   #26
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Contact the Scamp company. They make a deluxe model that is all wood interior. I had one and it was great. They give you the option so that you can get a different floor plan. A standard Scamp has all fiberglass interior but the Deluxe is wood interior. With Casita both the standard and deluxe are fiberglass.
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