How to secure Burro hitch to ball? - Fiberglass RV
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Old 07-02-2017, 06:33 PM   #1
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Name: Bruce
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Alaska
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How to secure Burro hitch to ball?

I'm not comfortable hauling my Burro w/o some kind of pin or something to secure the hitch cap. I have no idea how to do it, as this style is new to me. Maybe you're not supposed to secure it? I'll replace it with a conventional hitch if necessary. Please and thanks...
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Old 07-02-2017, 06:41 PM   #2
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Looks like a common "yoke style" receiver hitch. There's no need to replace it if it latches well. The pin is just to keep the latch from being lifted. They've been doing it that way for a long time, regardless of the slight differences in receiver design.

Also, if it doesn't latch well, there are two fixes that don't require replacing the entire receiver:

1- adjust it. There's usually an adjustable bolt underneath to change the tension.

2- repair it. There are many 2" yoke type receiver repair kits available.
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Old 07-02-2017, 06:54 PM   #3
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Thanks Robert,
Good info. I might tighten the tension a tad. I believe you're also saying there is no reason or way to pin the latch.
I can now rest assured!
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Old 07-02-2017, 11:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biasdr View Post
Thanks Robert,
Good info. I might tighten the tension a tad. I believe you're also saying there is no reason or way to pin the latch.
I can now rest assured!
A minor correction. It's not called a receiver, that's the part where the stinger attaches to the tow vehicle. Don't know why I called it that..lol. It's called a coupler. And, the more I look at the design (mine is a yoke style Atwood coupler), there is no bolt underneath to adjust it. The yoke style doesn't use one.

As long as the latch is secure and can't open on it's own, your coupler is probably fine. If you want to get down on the ground and inspect it, or use a small mirror, you will see how the little jaw operates when it's open or closed.

The one thing you have to make sure of is that the ball is properly seated in the coupler. With the yoke style coupler, that's easy - the latch will fully close.
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Old 07-02-2017, 11:25 PM   #5
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Robert, thanks for the update. I do see the jaw now and can verify the coupler won't latch until the ball is proper seated. Once seated I can't physically pull it back. I'm confident using it now. Again, thanks for the information.
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Old 07-03-2017, 12:06 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biasdr View Post
Robert, thanks for the update. I do see the jaw now and can verify the coupler won't latch until the ball is proper seated. Once seated I can't physically pull it back. I'm confident using it now. Again, thanks for the information.
You're welcome. Happy camping.
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Old 07-03-2017, 07:06 AM   #7
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I think we have the same coupler type. This is an Atwood coupler.
Newer models of this coupler have a hole where you can insert a pin or lock, just like most regular couplers, to prevent the lever from lifting and releasing the ball.
Old models like ours don't have that.
When I bought my trailer, the previous owner showed me how he locked it. There is a hole on the side of the coupler, curb side, just behind the U-shaped part that slides forward and down to lock the ball. He inserted a lock pin in that hole, which prevents the U-shaped part (I don't know the name of that thing!) from sliding back.
I thought that was a bit of a redneck solution, but searching the web I found that this hole wasn't drilled by some previous owner, they were made like that. This hole is there from the factory, it's purpose is to lock the coupler, and it works just fine.

Here's a newer Atwood coupler, where you can insert a pin and lock it just like any coupler:


I couldn't find any pictures online for the old models, but here's mine. You can see the hole I'm talking about:

[/URL][/IMG]

You can see that when the coupler is unlocked, the hole is covered by the locking mechanism.

[/URL][/IMG]

When there is a pin or padlock in that hole, there is no way for the coupler to unlatch:

[/URL][/IMG]
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Old 07-03-2017, 07:42 AM   #8
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that "U" shaped clip can be gotten at any farm supply store or maybe a Big Box store.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...0?cm_vc=-10005

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Old 07-03-2017, 09:18 AM   #9
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Very cool! Already have one of those "U" pins and put it in the hole. Rev 'em up- I'm ready to go! Thanks!
Hey, just thought a long padlock might take care of hitch and chains... I'll check it after the rain stops.
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:23 AM   #10
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Burro Hitch

As you, I was worried about my hitch when I first picked up my 83 burro, because I had never seen one like that before. I have learned to trust it. To secure the top latch I got a piece of metal (about 2-3X the thickness of a wire coat hanger) and bent it into a "C" so the top of the wire bends into the hole in the latch and the bottom bends under the hitch -- this keeps the latch from ever popping up (assuming it ever would) - and it's easy to assemble and disassemble.
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Old 07-03-2017, 10:42 AM   #11
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If you look at Carl's pictures of the older lock you will see LOCK factory stamped above the hole. In Va. you are required to have a external pin or locking device on your coupler. I was worried I was going to have to replace a coupler on an older Scamp but I found the lock hole on the side of the coupler.
Your state regulations may vary.
Eddie
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Old 07-03-2017, 11:18 AM   #12
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We travel a lot and stop for breakfast, lunch, and dinner while on the road. I have less concern about the latch coming open then I do about forgetting to latch or somebody playing silly games and unlatching while I'm parked. Therefore a padlock through any locking hole will 1) help to insure I've latched the coupler 2) at least slow down somebody that would want to play games 3) it makes it easy to check before leaving after any stop.
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Old 07-03-2017, 11:32 AM   #13
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Padlock it is. I tell ya, this forum is a gift. Anyone have ideas about my trailer plug? I'm on my 3rd day trying to figure it out. "Trailer/Truck" under Problem Solving sub forum. Again, many thanks, guys!!
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Old 07-03-2017, 02:04 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
you will see LOCK factory stamped above the hole.
Wow I didn't even know that!
I figured may be you saw this before on someone else's coupler, not mine, as mine had been repainted so many times over the years that it must have 1/4 inch of paint on it! But no, to my surprise, the LOCK stamped on mine is clearly visible on my photo!

That's good!!
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Old 07-05-2017, 09:37 AM   #15
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Thanks guys this was very helpful!
I will be using a lock from now on.
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Old 11-27-2019, 01:55 PM   #16
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Name: Larry
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Thanks for the info and photos.
I too wondered how to lock the hitch and was planning on all kinds of holes and locks.
The “lock” word was very hard to see on the curb side, but it is there!
Now I have a padlock thru it parked or towing.
Thanks to all of you.
LG- Burroman
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Old 10-06-2021, 09:59 PM   #17
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Thank you!

I’ve had my 74 hunter for 2 years and was always worried about being able to lock it. Driving down the road or when leaving it parked at a hotel overnight. Your explanation of how to lock it has just resolved an issue I’ve had for so long. I’ve seen the hole there so many times, but never knew the solution was right in front of me. So glad these forums exists and everyone can help each other out with their knowledge and recommendations.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl V View Post
I think we have the same coupler type. This is an Atwood coupler.
Newer models of this coupler have a hole where you can insert a pin or lock, just like most regular couplers, to prevent the lever from lifting and releasing the ball.
Old models like ours don't have that.
When I bought my trailer, the previous owner showed me how he locked it. There is a hole on the side of the coupler, curb side, just behind the U-shaped part that slides forward and down to lock the ball. He inserted a lock pin in that hole, which prevents the U-shaped part (I don't know the name of that thing!) from sliding back.
I thought that was a bit of a redneck solution, but searching the web I found that this hole wasn't drilled by some previous owner, they were made like that. This hole is there from the factory, it's purpose is to lock the coupler, and it works just fine.

Here's a newer Atwood coupler, where you can insert a pin and lock it just like any coupler:


I couldn't find any pictures online for the old models, but here's mine. You can see the hole I'm talking about:

[/URL][/IMG]

You can see that when the coupler is unlocked, the hole is covered by the locking mechanism.

[/URL][/IMG]

When there is a pin or padlock in that hole, there is no way for the coupler to unlatch:

[/URL][/IMG]
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Old 10-07-2021, 02:11 PM   #18
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After I connect my trailer to the ball I “always” crank down the rolling / flat foot ( depending on my trailer)
If my tow vehicle raises a bit then I know it is secured

https://shop.harborfreight.com/media...9/69780_W3.jpg
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Old 10-07-2021, 04:01 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biasdr View Post
Padlock it is. I tell ya, this forum is a gift. Anyone have ideas about my trailer plug? I'm on my 3rd day trying to figure it out. "Trailer/Truck" under Problem Solving sub forum. Again, many thanks, guys!!
Couldn't find your question about trailer plug under problem solving - ask again here or pm me.
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