Is it safe to go inside while it is on jacks?

[amy in maine]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

My cribbing consists of 3- treated 6x6’s 16” long stacked up and tied together with a treated 2x6 and 3” screws . I place one set of blocks on each side of the axle then I tie the two sets of blocks together with a treated 2x6 and 3” deck screws . I also extend my 4 stabilizers
The trailer is extremely stable
My driveway is gravel ,sloped and rather uneven so jack stands did not give me the stability that I desired but if you park your trailer on concrete , jack stands should work.

My driveway isn't concrete it's asphalt...I'll try out the jacks when it gets here and see how stable it'll be, if not I think I should go get those blocks, I don't want to be worrying all winter thinking, it's going to collapse or squashed

Or maybe just get this?

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-...%2Bstands&th=1

[Tom 72]

The original topic was about stabilizing the trailer to use while parked.

Amy, your jackstands should do fine if you place them under the frame, and not axle. Depending on placement you start with the hitch and two tires, - 3 points. Add the jacks, and you have 5 points, plus any stabilizers you deploy.

While raising the axle off season sounds noble there are plenty who haven't done it. Like Jon said, the sky didn't fall. Even a small lift may help. If you drop the trailer nose, then place the jack stands, you can probably use the hitch jack to accomplish a lift, saving you from turning threads on the stands. Then drop stabilizers.

If you decide you want ears or tabs on the top of the stands, a welder can probably create and add them. Obviously you don't want to spend much.

PS, those two ton jacks [mentioned just above] would work for stabilizing or for an axle lift. They have sort a a ratcheting mechanism for adjusting height. Very convenient.

[amy in maine]

Originally Posted by Tom 72

The original topic was about stabilizing the trailer to use while parked.

Amy, your jackstands should do fine if you place them under the frame, and not axle. Depending on placement you start with the hitch and two tires, - 3 points. Add the jacks, and you have 5 points, plus any stabilizers you deploy.

While raising the axle off season sounds noble there are plenty who haven't done it. Like Jon said, the sky didn't fall. Even a small lift may help. If you drop the trailer nose, then place the jack stands, you can probably use the hitch jack to accomplish a lift, saving you from turning threads on the stands. Then drop stabilizers.

If you decide you want ears or tabs on the top of the stands, a welder can probably create and add them. Obviously you don't want to spend much.

PS, those two ton jacks [just above] would work for stabilizing and for an axle lift. They have sort a a ratcheting mechanism for adjusting height. Very convenient.

Well....it's only $15 should I get the ones with the lip? The 3ton one is only $23

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-...%2Bstands&th=1

But boy it weighs 3 times the amount than the aluminums

Yeah I think I'll get these instead that way it can be dual purpose both the scamp and the TV!

[Tom 72]

Likely overkill, but if I was going to crawl under them...

But leave them at home and improvise, safely on the road.

[Glenn Baglo]

Don't drop the trailer on your head while going through these contortions to get the wheels off the ground.
I would not support the trailer at the axle. I would use stands at the frame near the wheels ( truth be told, I won't do it at all ). This is the advice from Escape for changing a tire.
I put a bend in the solid axle of my tent trailer trying to jack it up at the axle. Don't do it.

[Jon in AZ]

Those little aluminum "jacks" are really meant to stabilize a tent trailer or small travel trailer at the corners with the tires on the ground. They are not designed to safely support a vehicle off the ground.

IF you choose to store your trailer raised, you need something sturdier to support the weight of the trailer near (not on) the axle. Automotive jack stands are designed to support a vehicle on a level surface while you work under it. I bought a light duty set of two with a floor jack for less than $40 at Walmart. Perfect for the Scamp, which I store on a level concrete pad. I also used them for my utility trailer when I repainted it a few years back.

And if you don't, that's good, too. I suspect a lot depends on how frequently you use your trailer. With wheels on the ground, those lightweight aluminum stabilizing jacks will be fine to take the wiggle out so you can use the trailer safely in storage.

If you want to prolong the life of your tires, you can also remove the wheels, reduce pressure to 15 psi, and store them in a climate controlled indoor space. I drew the line there. Wheels stay on the trailer. [emoji6]

[amy in maine]

Thank you everyone!

Harbor Freight was doing a 4th of July sale so I went before the fireworks and was able to get the 3 ton jack for the price of the 2 ton one!

It feels great to get that off my list, I'm all set and ready for winter now

Happy 4th of July!!

[k corbin]

the best solution to the issue of taking the weight off the axles for long term storage. Use it instead of storing it for a long term. They you don't have to worry. But is not using it for the winter actually the same as long term storage. If you use it spring thru fall I would not call that long term storage.


So as to betting that only 10% of people put their trailers up on jacks. The reasons is because it does not need that except for long term storage and perhaps only 10% are doing long term.

[Borrego Dave]

Amy, others have hinted a bit in responses to your questions but it seems that you haven't picked up on them. So I'll be the bad guy . Your trailer is fairly new, you've got another 10-15 years to go before the axle MAY need to be replaced. I've never taken the weight off the axles on any RV I've had in over 30 years. Some did sit for 6 months or so with no problems and made no difference with the later performance or sale of it. It's summer/camping time. Find & fix whatever is causing your allergies, which seems to be the biggest concern, then camp with it for a season or two to decide what really works for you by hands on use and then make the changes. Seems you're putting the cart before the horse. You may find that the roof air and LP you want to remove are things that make a trip a plus over a bust. If this was your 5th or 6th RV I wouldn't say a thing.....
BTW, the best thing you can do for storage is cover your tires from UV . Depending on the snow load you may get, putting an internal 2x4 brace from floor to ceiling would be a good idea. OK, let the beating begin .

[WilliamP]

Great story, well told. Finishing with the 3 questions really is brilliant story-telling! And just so you know, now I will never be lazy again about my back-end when parked. Thank-you.

Originally Posted by Rzrbrn

Neighbor lives down the holler about 300 yards away. Heard me yelling, saw the trailer, called my wife who was in Granny's house. He pulled me back up the hill with his tractor.

The neighbor and I are good friends, but I have to ask: Did he have to call my wife? Why couldn't he just come up and pull me out? Did she have to call the fire department?

[amy in maine]

Originally Posted by Borrego Dave

Amy, others have hinted a bit in responses to your questions but it seems that you haven't picked up on them. So I'll be the bad guy . Your trailer is fairly new, you've got another 10-15 years to go before the axle MAY need to be replaced. I've never taken the weight off the axles on any RV I've had in over 30 years. Some did sit for 6 months or so with no problems and made no difference with the later performance or sale of it. It's summer/camping time. Find & fix whatever is causing your allergies, which seems to be the biggest concern, then camp with it for a season or two to decide what really works for you by hands on use and then make the changes. Seems you're putting the cart before the horse. You may find that the roof air and LP you want to remove are things that make a trip a plus over a bust. If this was your 5th or 6th RV I wouldn't say a thing.....
BTW, the best thing you can do for storage is cover your tires from UV . Depending on the snow load you may get, putting an internal 2x4 brace from floor to ceiling would be a good idea. OK, let the beating begin .

Awwww, such a kind way to put it!

I’m not really worried about the long time thing rather that there will be snow piled up and 1000-1500lbs of weigh would be on top pushing it down full force on just those 2 tires/axels.

IF I take the AC out and able to get it into the garage I may not even have thought of doing it in the first place but because it’s going to be sitting outside all winter long out in the below freezing temperature with snow piled up I just thought she(Scamp) would appreciate it more.
My skills are limited so I can't build a brace, it'd probably collapse and hurt her even more than helping her from the snow!

BUT yes I get it now! “Girl worry about more important stuff this aint it, aint nobody got time to lift axels!” is what you’re all trying to say!

Thank you all very much, I’m familiar with campers as a kid we had a camper and I’ve been van dwelling in my 20’s but we had those huge campers and my dad did EVERYTHING. As a kid I felt really really bad for my dad having to flush out the poops and pees that WE did, fixing and tinkering with it on weekends, washing and cleaning, hooking everything up and down etc etc the list goes on and on. I would always tell him I wanted to help but he would ALWAYS give me a big smile and tell me we’re on vacation! Go and have fun, I got this kiddo go and swim! That is why I don’t have a black tank and a much much smaller camper because I want to spend less time doing all that. I’m a single mom so I don’t have another adult to share these chores with and I didn’t want my kids to feel bad for me, I just want to enjoy the precious time we have left
But yes, this is my very first camper and I have so many ??????'s but thanks to this community I’m learning every time I read all your posts! VERY grateful I’m living in the interweb years or I’d never probably even thought of buying one!

[Jon in AZ]

You should never let 1500 pounds of snow accumulate. Plan to brush it off periodically during/after storms. You will also want to brace the ceiling from inside for those times when you are unable to get to it in time.

More than one molded trailer has experienced a complete shell failure from snow load.

[amy in maine]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

You should never let 1500 pounds of snow accumulate. Plan to brush it off periodically during/after storms. You will also want to brace the ceiling from inside for those times when you are unable to get to it in time.

More than one molded trailer has experienced a complete shell failure from snow load.

Yes, totally, but I'm 5'2 I can't get to the top without a ladder.
I'll have to experiment if shaking the cover or pulling it will take the snow off or buy a step ladder etc.

But there's days where it wont stop snowing for days and even if you do it during, it just keeps piling up. But great idea on the brace "inside". Thank you!

[stevebaz]

I think you were set-up for a life insurance scam. She knew you would have taken the opportunity to take a nap in that trailer.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by amy in maine

Yes, totally, but I'm 5'2 I can't get to the top without a ladder.
I'll have to experiment if shaking the cover or pulling it will take the snow off or buy a step ladder etc.

But there's days where it wont stop snowing for days and even if you do it during, it just keeps piling up. But great idea on the brace "inside". Thank you!

A broom is the usual way. Soft bristles, of course. On the admittedly rare occasions when we have any kind of significant snowfall in our part of AZ, I try not to let it get over 6", as ours tends to be heavy, wet snow. A foot or two of dry powder would be less of a problem.

With the broom I try to push off the top layer without actually contacting the shell itself to avoid damage. Since you have a cover, that's less of an issue.

[Alex Adams]

Originally Posted by amy in maine

Yes, totally, but I'm 5'2 I can't get to the top without a ladder.
I'll have to experiment if shaking the cover or pulling it will take the snow off or buy a step ladder etc.

Get a roof rake. That should solve your problem. Make sure it is the kind with the rubber edge and not plastic so you don't scratch or tear a hole in your cover.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

A broom is the usual way. Soft bristles, of course. On the admittedly rare occasions when we have any kind of significant snowfall in our part of AZ, I try not to let it get over 6", as ours tends to be heavy, wet snow. A foot or two of dry powder would be less of a problem.

With the broom I try to push off the top layer without actually contacting the shell itself to avoid damage. Since you have a cover, that's less of an issue.

I just use a push broom and a 6 ft ladder to remove the snow off my trailer . My trailer is covered

[amy in maine]

Ok, I'll look into the roof rake/brooms. Thank you!!

[Scamper881]

Any and all units that have torsion bar suspension should be suspended if they are going to sit for a long while. You want the tires to be off the ground. If you fail to do this, over time the torsion bars will compress permanently, and then you functionally have no suspension (no "bounce" so to speak) except for the flexing of your tire walls. (Think of this as being like replacing struts and leaf springs with solid steal bars.) This can lead to tire failure, not to mention that it severely vibrates everything inside the unit, and potentially could result in structural failure where the axle assembly attaches to the unit.

[Glenn Baglo]

You forgot to mention that it will likely take 30 to 40 years for the torsion rubber to compress permanently.