Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
Over on the Airstream forums they routinely replace rivets with new ones, albeit bigger ones perhaps but no new holes are drilled. If you drilled the rivet out and used the existing hole with another rivet? I did not think that rivets expanded out but just at each end or head, so the hole diameter should be the same you may need a washer on the inside head if it compressed the wood. I thought the new fan came with screws to screw into the roof? Maybe you could use bolts that the trim will cover inside?
Many moon ago we purchased a used Argosy trailer by Airstream. Had no experience with Rivits until then. With that type of trailer I learned pretty fast. We've had aluminum boats requiring repairs and additions and I've built stuff using rivits. They work great when used properly.
Realizing that you know about rivits, so this info is just for anyone that may not know how a "POP" rivit works.
A rivit is essentually 2 parts. A hollow tube with a flat head on one end, and a solid shaft with a ball on one end. The solid shaft goes through the hollow tube with the ball at the far end. The rivit tool pushes against the head and draws the shaft and ball through the tube which expands it.
Then the ball reaches the back side of the material the rivit is in, and the tool keeps pulling. The shaft eventually "POPS" off the ball. Leaving the rivit head on one side and the shaft that was expanded by the ball on the other. When done properly it makes a tight connection that isn't likely to work loose like a screw might.
Of course the traditional method of a good rivit job is for the hole to be just big enough for the hollow rivit body body to slip through. The rivit needs to be long enough to slip through both pieces of material with a little sticking through for the ball to expand. . The rivit tool pulls the shaft with the built on ball through the hollow tube, expanding the tube on the back side until it is too large to slip through the material and tight against it. The shaft breaks off leaving the ball inside the hollow tube and against the back side of the job. If the material is soft, tiny washers can be used for the ball to push against.
To remove a rivit. The head can be drilled until it breaks loose from the hollow tube. Then the rivit can be pushed through and it falls out the back side. Leaving the hole ready for another rivit if desired.
Pictures 1-4 of the link FanTastic Vent - How To Install
shows the wood box built to accept the vent/fan on a conventional trailer. After removing all the trim and stuff inside the trailer I see wood. Can't see much as the Rat Fur is covering it. Apparently that box on the Casitas is glued to the underside of the fiberglass "roof", and serves the same function of strength and necessary thickness
as on a conventional trailer.
It "Appears" that Casita
chose to drill holes through the FG and into the wood. Inserted rivits and expanded the ball/tube into the wood, rather than going all the way through and tightening from the back side. If that is the case, then removing the rivit heads will leave the tubes in the wood with nowhere to push them to because the ball is larger than the hole. They likely won't pull out because the ball has created a cavern bigger than the hole and it won't pull through. Even being lucky enough to drill exactly in the middle of the shaft, as the bit bites, it will likely cause the shaft to spin in place rather than just going away. But, most likely, the drill bit would slip off the tube and drill beside it. Creating a hole that is not in alignment with the holes in the outer fan flange.
Choice are limited, but the most likely would be to drill new holes for everything and use screws. Of course that would leave 16 rivit holes and 16 screw heads to seal.
If real lucky the wood frame would have a grove cut full lungth. A piece of metal glued on top of the wood and the metal glued to the roof. Hole drilled from the top just deep enough to penetrate through the metal, ahd the rivit could be removed in the traditional manor. Just got a feeling, that ain't going to happen.
So trying desperately to figure exactly where the water is seeping in and it not be necessary to remove the whole thing. . I did find something interesting. It looks as though the dome has been replaced. Something may have gone wrong there. Also found that the excessive silicone is all the way up to the dome hinge and touching it in several places. Don't know if that could cause water to stand there long enough to "wick" through the hinge. I'm cutting the excess away as a first measure. Then I'm going to build a dam around the front of the fan and fill it with water to try and establish if the water is in fact seeping under the front sealers. If not, It is going to rain on it for a while from the water hose.
Hopefully with me inside and someone else "raining" I can spot the leak.
Got to find out what chemical will remove silicone residue and investigate the Dicor and Eternabond products. Wishful thinking?