Leak

[Kip in Ga.]

A couple of days after getting our 03 Casita 17' SD home it started raining moderately. I was in and out of the trailer and had a cube heater running.

I noticed a drop of water come from the front / curb side edge of the Fantastic fan trim. This is the corner closest to the door.

The trim I'm speaking of is roughly 1.5" wide that goes around the entire fan and pushes against the ceiling.

I put my finger between that trim and the ceiling and several drop of water ran out and dripped onto the floor. I removed all I could with a paper towel and it returned within a couple of hours.

The next day was sunny as was the one after that. No water was present above the trim. On the 2nd day I went to the roof with silicone in hand. Someone before me had obviously experienced the same problem and there was what looked like an entire ( squeeze ) tube of silicone on the front edge of the exterior mounting plate.

There are no rivits exposed and the smoke cover was closed tight and had no cracks as I could see.

Has anyone experienced this problem? Any Ideas?

One thought is that with the earlier rain and me going in and out and the Cube running, there was excess moisture in the trailer and the trim may have been pushing against the ceiling enough to get cold and form condensation. ? ?

Another is that the smoke cover itself may have formed condensation and eventually had water run down it's insides. But I can't see where it would have allowed any water inside, as it doesn't touch the vertical flange it seals against, except where it should!

Has anyone experienced this problem? Any Ideas?

Thanks,
Kip

Thanks,
Kip

[Ray N]

Uh-oh you used silicone - stand by to be chastised.

[cpaharley2008]

I think since you were in and out that should eliminate the condensation theory. I had posted this scenario earlier because on my egg the prior owner or installer used silicone on the fantastic install. I asked if I should remove and install properly and the consensus was if it does not leak, wait. In your case it would appear you have a leak. I think that you should remove all the silicone and reinstall the vent properly using the putty sealer. Take plenty of pictures for the rest of us as I'm sure there are others with the same issue.

[Ed Harris]

I have had a similar problem with my 17SD fantastic fan leaking around the edges. Like yours the previous owner seemed to think that Quantity of Silicone would make up for Quality of preparation and application.
It took me some time to remove and clean the offending Silicone mess and I finished just in time for it to start raining non-stop for weeks it seemed.
So I covered the egg with a blue tarp and pondered.

I did not have time to remove and replace it as suggested here and sought the advice of a dealer here whose service people I have come to trust.

I got a tube of Dicor Lap Sealant-Self Leveling and waited for 1 dry day.
I was warned that this stuff is so runny at first it would be a little freaky to apply and the warning was exactly as advertised.
This stuff went down fast and I was sort of scared it would start running off the roof of the trailer!
It doesn't though and once in the air it starts to level out and firm up.....some.

I waited till the next day and went topside and I now had a perfect looking gasket completely sealing the edge and screw heads and it looks very impressive.

The important part of course is that I have had no leaks at all since,not a drop!
It also remains flexible and is U.V. stabilized too.
I am told that if problems arise a light re-application will take care of it without the need to undo or overdo anything?

I was of course reluctant to try this and even more reluctant to say here that I had tried this but I could not be happier with the performance of this product so far.
They also make a Non-Leveling version for sidewalls and windows.

Dicor is made as a Roof sealant and seems to do what it claims.
Just my experience.

Ed

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Ed Harris

I have had a similar problem with my 17SD fantastic fan leaking around the edges. Like yours the previous owner seemed to think that Quantity of Silicone would make up for Quality of preparation and application.
It took me some time to remove and clean the offending Silicone mess and I finished just in time for it to start raining non-stop for weeks it seemed.
So I covered the egg with a blue tarp and pondered.

I did not have time to remove and replace it as suggested here and sought the advice of a dealer here whose service people I have come to trust.

I got a tube of Dicor Lap Sealant-Self Leveling and waited for 1 dry day.
I was warned that this stuff is so runny at first it would be a little freaky to apply and the warning was exactly as advertised.
This stuff went down fast and I was sort of scared it would start running off the roof of the trailer!
It doesn't though and once in the air it starts to level out and firm up.....some.

I waited till the next day and went topside and I now had a perfect looking gasket completely sealing the edge and screw heads and it looks very impressive.

The important part of course is that I have had no leaks at all since,not a drop!
It also remains flexible and is U.V. stabilized too.
I am told that if problems arise a light re-application will take care of it without the need to undo or overdo anything?

I was of course reluctant to try this and even more reluctant to say here that I had tried this but I could not be happier with the performance of this product so far.
They also make a Non-Leveling version for sidewalls and windows.

Dicor is made as a Roof sealant and seems to do what it claims.
Just my experience.

Ed

So, did you lift up and put the stuff underneath the fan or just around the edges and screw holes? Not sure where you exactly installed the Dicor caulk
and do you have any pictures? Thanks

[Ed Harris]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

So, did you lift up and put the stuff underneath the fan or just around the edges and screw holes? Not sure where you exactly installed the Dicor caulk
and do you have any pictures? Thanks

No,I didn't have the time to lift it up or I would have just "bedded" it with butyl rubber or putty tape and then sealed around that.

I did spend some time removing the Silicone though which was neither working at all nor easy to remove?
I use a Multi-Master tool with scraper blade and this works faster and better than anything I have ever tried to remove Silicone.
Then I used some kind of Silicone residue cleaning gunk too before letting it dry and then hitting it with the Dicor.

Sorry no pics but it works and that is what matters to me.

Ed

[Greg H]

Take it out clean everything and start all over.

[Doug P.]

I agree with Greg, remove the entire vent, clean everything off, wipe with acetone reinstall with butyl tape (not putty) cap the edges and any visible screw heads with a none harding sealer. This will take care of your leak.

[Kip in Ga.]

Looked again and 3 sides of the top of the fan installation, that I can see, appear to have been done professionally. Cant tell about the 4th side as there is silicone on it.

The 3 sides have some kind of sealer tape/gasket applied on top. It is perfectly smooth and overlaps onto the top. Appears to be a silicone type material, somewhat transparrent and will dent when a fingernail is pressed into it. Is that "factory"?

Where is Dicor Lap Sealant-Self Leveling purchased? Since it seems to be "runny", could a dam of some kind be built to contain the "run" until it begins to set up?

Where is butyl tape/putty purchased, and where is it used and how is it applied.

Are the 2 above products purchased in a tube, a can, or a calk gun type container?

I have very limited experience with fiberglass, but there seems to be an underlying problem with silicone. What is the problem with it?

Any additional ideas, and/or suggeations are most appreciated.

Thanks,
Kip

[Joe Z]

Originally Posted by Kip in Ga.

Where is butyl tape/putty purchased, and where is it used and how is it applied.


Thanks,
Kip

I had a hard time finding Butyl Tape and then one day while walking thru a larger RV Store it was right there on the shelf..... A roll of white 3/4" butyl tape. Use this under whatever you want to seal and re-tighten the screws on that object and then trim with a platic type item to the edge..... this stuff is not meant to be pressed on to the outside of say a Window... It has to go underneath and then tightened evenly til it squishes out. I really like this stuff.
Go to any RV Store that repairs RV's and i am sure they would have it...... they use it when installing windows
Joe

[Donna D.]

There are many ways to do just about anything and they're all temporary. They can be temporary for... 20 years, or temporary for 20 weeks. Sometimes the easiest is the most time consuming in the long run if you have to redo, redo, redo.

[cpaharley2008]

here is a link for the tape and you can google "Dicor" if this place doesn't have it.
https://www.makariosrv.com/search.ph...+tape&x=25&y=7

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Kip in Ga.

Looked again and 3 sides of the top of the fan installation, that I can see, appear to have been done professionally. Cant tell about the 4th side as there is silicone on it.

The 3 sides have some kind of sealer tape/gasket applied on top. It is perfectly smooth and overlaps onto the top. Appears to be a silicone type material, somewhat transparrent and will dent when a fingernail is pressed into it. Is that "factory"?

Where is Dicor Lap Sealant-Self Leveling purchased? Since it seems to be "runny", could a dam of some kind be built to contain the "run" until it begins to set up?

Where is butyl tape/putty purchased, and where is it used and how is it applied.

Are the 2 above products purchased in a tube, a can, or a calk gun type container?

I have very limited experience with fiberglass, but there seems to be an underlying problem with silicone. What is the problem with it?

Any additional ideas, and/or suggeations are most appreciated.

Thanks,
Kip

Dicor also comes in a roll that is applied on top of seams, screws, and around vents on box type trailers. Once applied it is permanent and leak proof. That is probably what you have on 3 sides.

[Gina D.]

Roof Leak Repair Products & Sealing Tape | EternaBond

I had a motorhome with more leaks than dry spots. This cured ALL of it and was relatively simple to put on.

Be warned tho, that once its on, it isn't coming off easily.

It has become the standard for RV Manufacturing.

Dicor is also well recommended, as shown above. It is better suited for areas where visuals are concerned. The eternabond looks like a giant band-aid.. suitable for roof applications, but not side seams or penetrations.

The eternabond will last longer than most rigs will. Do it once, and you are done.

[Kip in Ga.]

Real tempted to remove and reinstall the entire thing.

Questions:

How is the fan assenbly held to the roof of the Casita?
Screws, bolts and nuts, rivits?

Once the fasteners are removed, what is the best way to pry the fan away from that ever is used (gasket) for it to sit on. Without breaking a flange.

Once properly scrapped free of sealer, what type of solvent is used to remove residue of the sealer (gasket)?

Looking from inside, I noticed that the rubber gasket, that the smoked cover closes onto, has a gap. As though it has shrunk over time and the two ends no longer touch. It is on the front side of the lip. Is this normal, or should a new one be ordered?

If I should decide to reseal the top portion rather than removing and redoing. What solvent removes residue left from the silicone and other sealers that may be there?

Thanks,
Kip

[cpaharley2008]

In a way we are similar to a dentist. He needs to remove the decay completely before putting in a new filling. I'd remove the entire unit and start from scratch. You may want to upgrade your entire fan unit or at least replace the gasket and or cover.

[Chris Z]

A comment and then a question:
I had a small leak around my fantastic fan also. Hoping for the best, I re-applied some silicone. Didn't work. Installed Max-air cover over fan and alls well.
Question: The 2 inch flange on the inside is held on with 4 screws in the corners. What are those screws going into? Seems like maybe the rug only and don't want to stay put. Is that all they are screwing into?

[cpaharley2008]

If you have a leak, it will be around the flange where the vent sits on the roof. The MaxxAir attaches to the vent itself, not the flange and should have no effect on leaks other than additional weight compressing the gasket. Here is a link for the install
FanTastic Vent - How To Install
as can be seen, there is a gasket on the outside upon which the fan seals itself to the roof. The inside is just trim hiding the hole. The 4 screws do not penetrate the roof from the inside.

[Kip in Ga.]

Originally Posted by Chris Z

A comment and then a question:
I had a small leak around my fantastic fan also. Hoping for the best, I re-applied some silicone. Didn't work. Installed Max-air cover over fan and alls well.
Question: The 2 inch flange on the inside is held on with 4 screws in the corners. What are those screws going into? Seems like maybe the rug only and don't want to stay put. Is that all they are screwing into?

I'm in the process of taking mine completely apart. Piece by piece. Lots of bits and pieces. Lots and lots of pieces.

That flange is part of a larger box that is held in place by 4 screws. That box houses some switches, and other electrical gadgets you can see through the screen. The screws are not on the extreme outward corners of the flange. They are more inward. I don't recall if you can see them with the screen in place. My inside trim has holes also, but there are no screws in them. They only serve to drip the water that is seeping in from outside.

Kip

[Kip in Ga.]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

In a way we are similar to a dentist. He needs to remove the decay completely before putting in a new filling. I'd remove the entire unit and start from scratch. You may want to upgrade your entire fan unit or at least replace the gasket and or cover.

Got this thing pretty much in pieces now. The only things left in place is the housing that sticks through the roof opening. The smoke cover is still on it. Removed everything in hopes of seeing where the water is coming in.

Here is a problem. There are approximately 16 rivits holding it to the roof.
It appears that the rivits are expanded into wood. It appears that they drilled the holes into the roof and into a wood frame around the opening.
Then inserted the rivits and popped them into place.

I can drill the heads off the rivits but the rivit bodies will still be in place and not likely going to be pulled out as they are expanded in the wood.
If that is true, a lot of new holes would need to be drilled in the outside flange and roof.

Thanks for the link!

KIp