Leaking fantastic fan - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-22-2011, 07:38 AM   #15
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Chris, The only way to do this job is like some have said, take the fan out and do it right the first time. I did this to my Scamp this summer, with butyl tape then caulk over the screws like Larry said. By the way I have a Fein tool also and have used it for many projects they work great. Chris the whole project won't take you that long to do either.
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:58 AM   #16
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I agree with everything said about going down to the bare FG and installing the fan the right way. In my case I called the company (Fantistic folks) and got their advice along with a free installation kit (lifetime guarantee means lifetime guarantee). I recommend making the call even if you don't follow the advice they give you. They're just nice supportive folk to talk with. I also want to point out that "good enough tools" (AKA Harbor Freight) sell a knockoff of the vibrating tool for under $20.
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Old 12-09-2011, 08:53 AM   #17
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As a heavy use tool guy that owns the Fein and the Harbor Frieght (my loaner to friends. I don't loan my Fein). The Fein is the best commercial version. The Harbor Freight is the lowest quality but useable. Many other companies make Multi Tools now. Names like Bosch, Porter Cable, Dremel, Rockwell, etc. All work well and are well worth owning for any true DIY type person. No other tool replaces this concept. Name brand blades are expensive and do wear out for cutting. Find one on sale and you will wonder what you did without it. Buy your blades at HF.

A current sale is the Sears cordless model that looks good here:
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
$49 on sale.
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Old 12-10-2011, 03:08 PM   #18
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Re: Fein tool

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Harris View Post
Ed,
I'm not sure which attachment you'd be using for taking off old excess silicone from the outside rivet caps. i LOOKED AT YOUR attached link but really couldn't see something that made sense to me...seemed to be mostly a cutting or sanding tool. Help me understand this a bit better, since I'd like to buy a tool that works for taking off old rock hard sillicone caulking...I've got a bunch of it that I'd like to attack, with my trailer just waiting form me in my garage!
Any help is appreciated!
Barbara
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Old 12-10-2011, 07:05 PM   #19
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Barbara,
The Sears model is cordless and easier to use on the roof. Each attachment has a specific purpose and the instructions will tell you which item will remove paint or tile. Practice on something until you are comfortable with the tool and then use it. They are will turn any labor intensive job into an easy one.
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:02 AM   #20
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Jim & Ed,
Thank you both for your postings back to me, BUT I STILL would LOVE to know WHICH specific attachment you two used (on the Fein, Sear's or Harbor Freight's multi-use tool) in orderto 'sand' off the globs of old ROCK-HARD silicone from rivet caps and the gel-coat fiberglass surface of my trailer WITHOUT HARMING the fiberglass gelcoat. I don't think the manufacturer will specifically name silicone and working on fiberglass when printing directions to use their product. NAME THAT AttACHMENT for me, please!!!!! And anything I should be aware of in trying not to damage (sand, saw or grind through my FB gelcoat).
Thanks!
Barbara
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:14 AM   #21
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There is no attachment specifically made for what you plan on doing. What you need to do is to "practice" using the rasp on something to see what it does, then use the scrapper attachment on something, then the sanding attachment. Between the 3 you will find a combo best suited. then attack the vent residue. If uncomfortable with this approach, do the manual putty knife method or any combo of the manual and tool. Take pictures as you go along and post or if you have more questions.
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:18 PM   #22
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Barbara I use a scraper blade to do it.

Fein 2011

Page 179-I have used both.

They are both designed to do exactly this job and it clearly states this in the catalog.

Now I know just how we tend to be here and I can understand why mostly but this is a specific case where I have tried other brand cheapo copies of these blades designed just for FGRV patrons and they are not the same. If you damage your finish because of this and because you are too cheap to buy the real deal remember I cautioned you here first.


You will notice that the blade needs to be angled just right to remove the old crap effortlessly and will gouge the gelcoat otherwise so as Jim suggests try it somewhere hidden first if you can.

When removing the stuff almost no pressure is needed as soon as you get the blade angle right it will just peel it off almost by itself.

After the stuff you can see has been removed (in about 5 minutes max) then I would use a solvent to get the residue and remainder of it off of the gelcoat.
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