Looking for bruddah goopo-calking expert - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-03-2012, 09:25 AM   #1
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Name: Terry
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Looking for bruddah goopo-calking expert

OK i know your sick of it but i need to know asap.

what is the best stuff in a tube to calk around various old holes (for whatever) in the roof of my casita. I went online and u tube and got more and more confused. I would prefer something i can use in a calking gun. That seems more reasonable than using this tape from heaven they all talk about. I guess i am willing to use the tape but come on there has got to be a good calk for fiberglass. they said Silaprene but where can i get it. I don't give a XXXooo what you think-- maybe ---...please what do you know.. Thank you!
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:06 AM   #2
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For filling screw holes in fiberglass PC 7 and PC 11 are favorites. PC 7 is a 2 part epoxy that has the consistency of silly putty and can be pushed into a hole. PC 11 has the consistency of tooth paste. Both can be sanded when hard. The butyl tape you are hearing about is what you should use to seal anything attached to your trailer. For example, if I were reinstalling a leaky roof vent I would bed it in butyl tape to prevent leaks. Much more permanent that any caulk. Good luck, Raz
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:16 PM   #3
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The ". . . around various old holes (for whatever)" made me think Terry is asking about a bedding gasket for fans and vents rather than hole patching. In either case, Raz has a rec for each situation. There are probably some marine bedding compounds for caulk guns (3M-5200) you could use but all the goopo-calk bruddahs learn to use butyl tape and love it. So much easier to control the application, squeezeout, and cleanup once you get the tune in your head. Please eschew the use of silicone-based goopos; they adhere to everything somewhere and fail to seal anything everywhere.

For small holes (match-head sized) in a fiberglass surface, the catalyzed epoxies mentioned work well enuf and have the advantage of being more or less white when they cure. For larger areas that require filling and fairing (sanding flush to contour) I pretty much follow the conventional wisdom of like with like and would use polyester resin-based body filler (bondo). Others will recommend bridging even relatively small depressions with catalyzed polyester resin and fiberglass mat. Both require a color-matching overcoat (paint, polyester gel-coat). Paint finish to a glass repair is much easier to learn to apply ASAP.
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:26 PM   #4
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I'm a bit of a prig when it comes to such things, and my motto is:

If it can't be totally hidden/erased, it's better to make it look as if I didn't try to do so.

In my opinion, abandoned screw/rivet holes can never be filled in a way that makes them invisible to the eye, unless properly done/sanded out prior to a paint job. For that reason, my preference for plugging such holes is to use ordinary hole plugs seated with a bit of sealant.

Since yours is a Casita, the common white the plugs come in will "match", and redrilling/reaming for constant size is no problem.

Available at most hardware stores as well as online...

Francesca
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:23 PM   #5
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[QUOTE=zinco;348603]OK i know your sick of it but i need to know asap.

what is the best stuff in a tube to calk around various old holes (for whatever) in the roof of my casita. I went online and u tube and got more and more confused. I would prefer something i can use in a calking gun. That seems more reasonable than using this tape from heaven they all talk about. I guess i am willing to use the tape but come on there has got to be a good calk for fiberglass. they said Silaprene but where can i get it. I don't give a XXXooo what you think-- maybe ---...please what do you know.. Thank you!

what i meant was for around the factory holes for various things and even for the solar and around the tops of the windows come on i would't use tape there.
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:28 PM   #6
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i do not want to mix up epoxy or some other messy idea , there has got to be a single "BEST" product i can put in a calking gun and do the job quickly efficiently and looks dicent. thank you for your help!
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:51 PM   #7
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Horses and water.

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Old 12-03-2012, 02:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zinco View Post
i do not want to mix up epoxy or some other messy idea , there has got to be a single "BEST" product i can put in a calking gun and do the job quickly efficiently and looks dicent. thank you for your help!
There is no such product.

You must either:

a)Change your time/effort/method requirements
or
b) Accept a lower standard of what "looks decent".

Francesca
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:42 PM   #9
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Well, this is easy:
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:45 PM   #10
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Well, this is easy:
This is even easier!




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Old 12-03-2012, 03:02 PM   #11
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Don't have to pre-chew the FlexSeal but unbiased tests indicate the Spearmint tastes better. Seriously, Terry, if you're still looking in, try the 3M Industries gun caulks such as 3M5200. They are a recommended product for thru-hull fittings, handrails, sheet tracks, winches, on fiberglass sailboats. NOTE: THis is a product which creates a gasket between objects; it is not a hole patch.

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Old 12-03-2012, 03:22 PM   #12
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Don't have to pre-chew the FlexSeal but unbiased tests indicate the Spearmint tastes better. Seriously, Terry, if you're still looking in, try the 3M Industries gun caulks such as 3M5200. They are a recommended product for thru-hull fittings, handrails, sheet tracks, winches, on fiberglass sailboats. NOTE: THis is a product which creates a gasket between objects; it is not a hole patch.

jack
jack, am I wrong? Isn't 3 M 5200 an adhesive that once applied can not be removed? Or am I confusing it with something else? Raz
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:26 PM   #13
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jack, am I wrong? Isn't 3 M 5200 an adhesive that once applied can not be removed? Or am I confusing it with something else? Raz
That's my understanding. I believe 4200 is less permanent.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:29 PM   #14
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Raz, my recollections from bedding (and rebedding) a bunch of deck hardware on glass sailing cruisers in the 70s is that it was pretty tenacious--particularly when it got ground into unprotected areas of non-skid molded into the side decks. If memory serves, we used a few drums a year of laquer thinner and "special" thinner scrubbing it off. So it's soluable and I'm still alive for the moment!

jack

hedging addendum: It appears that a combination of light abrasion and any solvent that will attack it allows for removal. Complete removal is apparently a bit more difficult. I concede the "removal difficulty" point made by Raz and Tom.
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