Lube Stab Jacks - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-04-2016, 08:56 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
Oops. Posted before ready. It does make sense that the stabs should be a little stiff for storage. I have been comparing these to my 97 Dutchman pop up which is my only other experience. Same stabs, piece of cake to deploy.

As I said little Jack foot is a breeze to go down. I've looked for dry lube once for my wheelchair lift...I think that spray on graphite? Couldn't find at auto store I stopped at but I know it exists.

I use silicone spray on my tongue Jack as I read here once that is what atwood recommends. As far as I know these are atwood stabs.

The T 9 has wax in it and since it worked so well in my hinges I thought it would rock on the stabs. But they don't move as frequently or in same manner as a door hinge.

Silicone does wash out though.

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Wendy if the jacks are clean and free of dirt etc you might try adjusting the bolts/attachment points where they connect to the bumper. One side on my Scamp got hard to take down and I adjusted the attachment bolts a bit. Sorry can not recall what exactly I did but I seem to recall loosening one off a just a little and tightening up the other until I got it moving a bit better.
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Old 09-04-2016, 12:12 PM   #16
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Forget the lubes

As someone else said. Leave them dry. Oil and dirt makes a grinding compound.

You know there is a spring inside the jack that pulls the outer tube up and engages with the tabs, both when down and when up. If they are bent or distorted it makes then hard to operate.
Remove from bumper, clamp in a vise, and observe where the hang up are.
Staighten as needed. and reassemble. Use WD40 to help free the sliding action, but then wipe it off.
Or, you can replace then with BAL Scew type jacks. They, however, will not fit the same mounting points. You need to add a cross member, either a rectangular steel tube, or piece of flat bar stock to span the frame members. That can all be bolted on instead of welded.
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:37 PM   #17
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Boeshield, while a fine product, is not a lubricant, it is a corrosion inhibitor. The OP specifically mentioned lubrication.


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My post, as was pointed out by another member, was overly "absolute." And hastily written I would add. What I should have said is that Boeshield is not the BEST or a GREAT lubricant. It has been my experience that it requires frequent refreshing because it does not seem to be durable/persistent/long lasting as a lubricant where multiple surfaces contact each other. But it does a very good job of preventing rust/corrosion on bare metal surfaces.


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Old 09-04-2016, 07:50 PM   #18
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I think I will take at least the very stiff one off the trailer and inspect it. Perhaps doing so will locate a problem that I can address, and then put it back on with slow tightening down of one bolt/nut and then the other to see if that helps too, as all have suggested.

For this scenario, the T 9 did not work well but there may be an out of square issue or spring issue as mentioned. Today I did clean them up if you will with WD40 but that was as far as I got. Working back and forth as real times and they did move a bit better.

After a take apart I'll see how things are but I kind of think I'm leaning more toward just keeping them dry or possibly using dry lube. I'm curious as to what Attwood recommends. Just for the heck of it I'm going to look it up now. I'll report back.

Thank you so very much for all of the advice. As usual I learned new things!

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Old 09-04-2016, 08:04 PM   #19
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Just looked it up on their bulletin. Says to extend Jack it's fullest extent and clean of mud f
Tar and debris. Then oil pivot holes and rivet of release lever every 6 months. The words oil and clean are used, but no product types are mentioned to do so.

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Old 09-04-2016, 08:29 PM   #20
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oil can!

pretty much any standard, workshop machine oil will be thin enough to work itself into the joins and to absorb into the very slightly porous steel parts.

Grease is the thick stuff that will accumulate much more dirt than a thin oil.

If they said oil then use oil.
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:42 AM   #21
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Use oil sparingly. A single drop on those points should suffice. Any excess should be wiped off so that it does not collect grit.


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Old 09-05-2016, 09:02 AM   #22
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Ok thank you very much CPW!. If I use the oil I'll use it sparingly.

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Old 09-05-2016, 09:54 AM   #23
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This is probably not the accepted procedure but they tend to jam now and then and I just kick them. Frees them right up.
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Old 09-05-2016, 03:25 PM   #24
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This is probably not the accepted procedure but they tend to jam now and then and I just kick them. Frees them right up.
Its worked for me a time or two!
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