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11-11-2012, 04:18 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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new camper electrical?
I'm redoing my 1984 scamp fifth wheel over here: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...eel-55038.html
The old breaker box has been modified, the breakers are a single breaker, double switch design (whatever it's called), I can only get 4 circuits in, it's been cut on to mount another box with a red push button (any ideas why, some goofy main breaker/reset deal?).
I want to get it back to being right. Since it's 28 years old anyway, I'm seriously considering just replacing all electrical components (not the wiring). I also want to add a few outlets/circuits to it. The old sticker also said it's 15 amp ac service.
I'm thinking about getting this, everything replaced at once, and all in one neat spot: RV Direct Online Store Is 35 amp dc enough for the scamp? Ican't imagine the scamp ever drawing that much. I don't have a clamp to check the draw on it.
I'm debating getting a camper mounted battery isolater, likely from here: Hellroaring Battery Isolator/Combiner notes for Multi-Battery isolation in RV/Camper/Trailer Applications
I mght leave that out for now, see if I feel the need for one or not.
So, am I missing anything?
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11-11-2012, 04:29 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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The downside of using a solid state battery isolator as opposed to a relay is that the solid state device has a built in voltage drop. This lowered voltage plus the voltage drop in the wire between TV and trailer reduces trailer battery charging effectiveness.
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11-11-2012, 08:32 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Jim
Trailer: Bigfoot 1981 Trailer
British Columbia
Posts: 189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared J
I'm redoing my 1984 scamp fifth wheel over here: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...eel-55038.html
The old breaker box has been modified, the breakers are a single breaker, double switch design (whatever it's called), I can only get 4 circuits in, it's been cut on to mount another box with a red push button (any ideas why, some goofy main breaker/reset deal?).
I want to get it back to being right. Since it's 28 years old anyway, I'm seriously considering just replacing all electrical components (not the wiring). I also want to add a few outlets/circuits to it. The old sticker also said it's 15 amp ac service.
I'm thinking about getting this, everything replaced at once, and all in one neat spot: RV Direct Online Store Is 35 amp dc enough for the scamp? Ican't imagine the scamp ever drawing that much. I don't have a clamp to check the draw on it.
I'm debating getting a camper mounted battery isolater, likely from here: Hellroaring Battery Isolator/Combiner notes for Multi-Battery isolation in RV/Camper/Trailer Applications
I mght leave that out for now, see if I feel the need for one or not.
So, am I missing anything?
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I have just put in a PD 4045 converter (Progressive Dynamics) which is an all in 1 box complete with distribution and although you probably need an electrican or friend with electrical knowledge to help install (as I did) but it was an easy process to install.
I also ran additional outlets, for AC and DC under the trailer, which went very well and ran wiring for future LED lights.
Price is about $175 US and has pigtails for easy installation. I left the 15 amp power cord in place, rather than changing the cord to a 30 amp, but this is optional.
Pics are shown in my signature
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11-11-2012, 08:53 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Eggcamper 2007 ('Wolf's Lair')
Posts: 329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G.
The downside of using a solid state battery isolator as opposed to a relay is that the solid state device has a built in voltage drop. This lowered voltage plus the voltage drop in the wire between TV and trailer reduces trailer battery charging effectiveness.
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Tom. The Hellroaring isolator is not a diode type isolator so it doesn't have the "diode drop" problem. It uses FETs with an on resistance of about 0.005 ohms. Diode isolators have a 0.7 volt drop or more when forward biased. Some are over 1.5 volts. The drop across the Hellroaring unit is in the low millivolt range.
Jared. Are you planning on installing multiple batteries in your Scamp? If not I'm wondering what you want to accomplish with the Hellroaring battery isolator since you said you plan to mount it in the Scamp. It would make more sense to mount it in your tow vehicle to isolate the charge line going to the trailer.
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11-11-2012, 08:55 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmied
I have just put in a PD 4045 converter (Progressive Dynamics) which is an all in 1 box complete with distribution and although you probably need an electrican or friend with electrical knowledge to help install (as I did) but it was an easy process to install.
I also ran additional outlets, for AC and DC under the trailer, which went very well and ran wiring for future LED lights.
Price is about $175 US and has pigtails for easy installation. I left the 15 amp power cord in place, rather than changing the cord to a 30 amp, but this is optional.
Pics are shown in my signature
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Is the fan on that pretty quiet? I like the size of it. I can wire it up, no problem, I'm just not keen on rv electrical. I don't know if there's a bad brand to stay away from, or a nice accessory to add to make things easier, etc. I would like to install a voltage monitor, also.
I already have a 30 amp cord on mine, I'm good there. I just installed a waterproof disconnect on it to get rid of the pull out cord.
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11-11-2012, 09:00 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orlen Wolf
Tom. The Hellroaring isolator is not a diode type isolator so it doesn't have the "diode drop" problem. It uses FETs with an on resistance of about 0.005 ohms. Diode isolators have a 0.7 volt drop or more when forward biased. Some are over 1.5 volts. The drop across the Hellroaring unit is in the low millivolt range.
Jared. Are you planning on installing multiple batteries in your Scamp? If not I'm wondering what you want to accomplish with the Hellroaring battery isolator since you said you plan to mount it in the Scamp. It would make more sense to mount it in your tow vehicle to isolate the charge line going to the trailer.
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Just a single battery at the moment. Even if I put two in the trailer, I would just parallel them, anyway. Hellroaring has one that can be camper mounted, but still functions like one on the tow vehicle. I like it because A: It will work on any tow vehicle hooked up to it, and B: I don't want to hack up the wiring in my tow vehicle, especially since I'm rewiring the trailer anyway.
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11-12-2012, 07:54 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orlen Wolf
Tom. The Hellroaring isolator is not a diode type isolator so it doesn't have the "diode drop" problem..........
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Thanks, I learned something.
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11-12-2012, 08:23 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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I second the motion on using the PD-4045 power chassis, it's by far superior, to the unit shown, and for only a few more $$$.
The usual function of a battery isolator, with a single coach battery anyway, is just to prevent drawing down the TV's battery when the alternator isn't running. For the most part, pulling out the 7 pin connector can accomplish the same thing.
You could place a solenoid type isolator near the TV's 7 pin connector and break the charge line at that point without to much change to the factory wiring.
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11-12-2012, 09:34 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Jim
Trailer: Bigfoot 1981 Trailer
British Columbia
Posts: 189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared J
Is the fan on that pretty quiet? I like the size of it. I can wire it up, no problem, I'm just not keen on rv electrical. I don't know if there's a bad brand to stay away from, or a nice accessory to add to make things easier, etc. I would like to install a voltage monitor, also.
I already have a 30 amp cord on mine, I'm good there. I just installed a waterproof disconnect on it to get rid of the pull out cord.
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I just installed the converter so cannot say how quiet the fan is. Others have installed the same unit and seem to be happy with it. It is a very small fan, similar to a computer fan.
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11-12-2012, 09:52 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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For a voltage monitor I use the Voltminder. It not only has a voltage display to 2 decimal places, it also has settable alarm points. Less than $25 at on-line vendors such as Batteryspace.com
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11-12-2012, 06:39 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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thanks for the help guys! I'll go with the pd4045 when I get to it, and check out the volt minder.
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11-12-2012, 06:59 PM
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#12
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Member
Name: Gary
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared J
thanks for the help guys! I'll go with the pd4045 when I get to it, and check out the volt minder.
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After much research I installed a WFCO converter/charger in my Scamp 13. Details in my blog at http://eggscamper.blogspot.com
Info there about an inexpensive and portable battery monitor too.
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