New Trillium 1300 Owner (1976) - Some Assorted Questions - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-22-2013, 03:59 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Name: Mike
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 4
New Trillium 1300 Owner (1976) - Some Assorted Questions

I'm not just new to the forum, but new to owning a fiberglass RV. This past weekend I purchased a 1976 1300 that was in good body condition, but is in desperate need of some general TLC.

The worst issue was the wiring -- both for inside use and towing. While towing, I saw no lights operating at in the front corners, the rear brake lights/signals worked correctly but the rear corner lights were miswired (the left signal would trigger the right rear side light to work, nothing happened with the right signal). Inside -- it was a mess of old/jumbled/crossed wiring some of it original, some crossing 12V and 110V with loose strands and wires, with 'knots' of spliced wires everywhere - many of them exposed. It was, without a doubt, the biggest fire hazard I've seen.

I re-wired the trailer first - there was a 4 pin connection (which is what my vehicle supports) so was able to rewire from the front to back, using heatshrink and terminal connectors to make sure it is 'roadworthy'.

I then read through these forums (via the sticky that is posted here), about using braided when putting 110V wiring inside, and wherever possible I replaced the solid copper with 12 AWG braided. The only areas that still use solid copper is a line that runs up the rear to a small light socket, and the line that runs up in the kitchenette area to an outlet and the venting fan; both of these are original wiring that it's clear haven't been touched since 1976, and look to be in good condition.

However, I haven't yet touched the inside's 12V wiring -- that's next weekend's project. I should note there is no inverter or converter in there -- in fact, a few of the 12V strands were just loosely connected/spliced (I kid you not) to the 110V wiring -- so I'm not even sure if they're working -- but will test as I go.

So, as a 1300 newbie, my questions are:

1. When wiring the trailer's external lights (for towing), everything works, but the 'ground' line appears not to be physically grounded to the trailer, but rather to the rear lights (which had a 3rd wire for ground). Can someone confirm that I should be grounding that entire line to the metal frame? I tested and everything worked ok, but I suspect it's not properly grounded at present. I can see there's a single ground wire that runs from the front of the trailer to inside, just near where the heater goes, but it's just loose -- I suppose at some point that was the ground for either the lights, or the 12V system?

2. Are the front external lights meant to be running lights? That's how I wired them for now and just left rear/back lights as signals. Is this correct?

3. As far as I can tell, the inside 12V lines run one external light beside the top of the door outside, as well as two internal lights (in the cabinet above the kitchen), as well as providing an option for the heater (I have what appears to be original propane heater with 110/12V switch). Since I don't see a huge need to run 12V, I thought I would just have these set up to connect to a 12V marine battery for the few times I might need 'off the grid' power. However, I know originally it would've had a converter with battery storage. Should I buy just a converter so that I can use my 12v connections on my 110v line and if so, anyone recommend a good one (without battery storage, since I'll just use it is occasionally)? Is there any reason I shouldn't just keep the 12V line for hooking up to a deep cycle/marine battery in the few times I need it?

4. The exhaust fan above the stove appears to be original -- and after wiring it up, the light works, but the fan doesn't appear to. Would anyone have the original service manuals for this fan, or am I just better to replace it entirely (I'm not sure how often I'll actually cook in this, so it's not a high priority).

5. I've read about the frame and how it should be painted/checked for corrosion regularly, but how can I thoroughly inspect it to make sure that the recall done in the early 1980's was done, and what other things should I check for? Are there a specific list of things I should be looking for?

6. The original fridge was, at some point, replaced with a standard 'mini fridge' that is on 110V. I added a switch so I don't have it automatically turning on when it's connected to external power -- but given my 1300 also has two propane tanks connected, am I better off to just try to source a small propane fridge? Are there any good sources for buying good propane fridges (I'm not overly concerned with the fridge now, just planning ahead).

I'm sure more questions will pop up as I go... but these are the first that come to mind. Thanks in advance for everyone's assistance, hope I can contribute in return.
__________________

__________________
Mike on the Bog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2013, 04:26 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
2. Are the front external lights meant to be running lights? That's how I wired them for now and just left rear/back lights as signals. Is this correct?
Yes. With the combined stop/turn wiring system (of any 4-pin connection and most trailers even with 7 pins) there is no separate turn signal circuit. Any lights on the front and the lights on the sides - forward or rearward - can only work properly as marker (or "running") lights.
__________________

__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2013, 04:32 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
David Tilston's Avatar
 
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
Posts: 5,315
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
1. When wiring the trailer's external lights (for towing), everything works, but the 'ground' line appears not to be physically grounded to the trailer, but rather to the rear lights (which had a 3rd wire for ground). Can someone confirm that I should be grounding that entire line to the metal frame? I tested and everything worked ok, but I suspect it's not properly grounded at present. I can see there's a single ground wire that runs from the front of the trailer to inside, just near where the heater goes, but it's just loose -- I suppose at some point that was the ground for either the lights, or the 12V system?
It is probably best not to ground the 12VDC to the frame. The 110VAC should be grounded to the frame.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
2. Are the front external lights meant to be running lights? That's how I wired them for now and just left rear/back lights as signals. Is this correct?
There are front, yellow, and rear, red, running lights on the side of the trailer. They should be on when your tow vehicle lights are on. The signal lights are only on the back of the trailer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
3. As far as I can tell, the inside 12V lines run one external light beside the top of the door outside, as well as two internal lights (in the cabinet above the kitchen), as well as providing an option for the heater (I have what appears to be original propane heater with 110/12V switch). Since I don't see a huge need to run 12V, I thought I would just have these set up to connect to a 12V marine battery for the few times I might need 'off the grid' power. However, I know originally it would've had a converter with battery storage. Should I buy just a converter so that I can use my 12v connections on my 110v line and if so, anyone recommend a good one (without battery storage, since I'll just use it is occasionally)? Is there any reason I shouldn't just keep the 12V line for hooking up to a deep cycle/marine battery in the few times I need it?
I want to see pictures of your heater. In a 1976, it should be a Duo Therm gravity furnace. It should not require any power at all.
If all you want is a battery charger, I would just buy one. Converters are crazy expensive for the models that have a smart battery charger in them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
4. The exhaust fan above the stove appears to be original -- and after wiring it up, the light works, but the fan doesn't appear to. Would anyone have the original service manuals for this fan, or am I just better to replace it entirely (I'm not sure how often I'll actually cook in this, so it's not a high priority).
I am not aware of any factory option for an exhaust fan above the stove. Where does it exhaust to? Pictures would be helpful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
5. I've read about the frame and how it should be painted/checked for corrosion regularly, but how can I thoroughly inspect it to make sure that the recall done in the early 1980's was done, and what other things should I check for? Are there a specific list of things I should be looking for?
The recall required metal plates to be welded to the frame where it comes out from under the fibreglass in the front. Frequently the plates are welded on the side, and bottom of the square tube.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
6. The original fridge was, at some point, replaced with a standard 'mini fridge' that is on 110V. I added a switch so I don't have it automatically turning on when it's connected to external power -- but given my 1300 also has two propane tanks connected, am I better off to just try to source a small propane fridge? Are there any good sources for buying good propane fridges (I'm not overly concerned with the fridge now, just planning ahead).
The fridge that was probably installed originally was an RM211. They are plentiful and cheep. Some people will try to sell them for $200, or more. Just keep looking. They were also common on tent trailers of the same vintage as your Trillium. The canvas and lifting mechanisms are now wearing out and people convert them to a snowmobile, or quad trailer. The appliances get tossed. Keep looking in kijiji, and your local wreckers, (camper vans). I bought one for $80, but then came across two more for free.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
I'm sure more questions will pop up as I go... but these are the first that come to mind. Thanks in advance for everyone's assistance, hope I can contribute in return.
You have come to the right place to get your questions answered.
__________________
David Tilston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2013, 05:23 PM   #4
Junior Member
 
Name: Mike
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 4
Thank you for the responses thus far!

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
It is probably best not to ground the 12VDC to the frame. The 110VAC should be grounded to the frame.
Sorry, I poorly worded my question. Should the trailer's external lighting (running/turn/brake) lights be grounded to the frame? As mentioned, there was a thin grounding wire from near the hitch to somewhere near the heater that was loose -- given whomever wired it last had no clue what they were doing, I assumed they had tried to ground the 12V as I can't see why else a ground wire would've been wired there. I can confirm that my 110VAC is properly grounded to the frame now (from the point of the circuit breaker, and my tester sensed proper ground on each subsequent connection).

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
There are front, yellow, and rear, red, running lights on the side of the trailer. They should be on when your tow vehicle lights are on. The signal lights are only on the back of the trailer.
Hmm... my Trillium had front yellow, and rear yellow on the sides of the trailer, and of course the rear brake/signal lights. I configured it such that the front yellow are 'always on' running, the rear yellows are 'always on', but switch to signal lights when I signal. That's not correct? Easy fix!

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
I want to see pictures of your heater. In a 1976, it should be a Duo Therm gravity furnace. It should not require any power at all.
I'll get back to it this weekend and will send pics. Yes, the unit is a Duo Therm -- it had a 110VAC connection and a 12VDC connection, with a small switch that allows me to switch from 110/12V -- I assumed that was for a fan, unless it is a "3 way" heater if there is such a thing?

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
If all you want is a battery charger, I would just buy one. Converters are crazy expensive for the models that have a smart battery charger in them.
I was more thinking that I'd forgo battery charging all-together, and just have the 12VDC lines ready for when I connect a deep cycle battery to it when I'm going 'off the grid'. (Only thing that wouldn't work right now would be the 110V fridge). But then I got to thinking that without having the 12VDC powered at all times, my pump and a few internal (and one light just outside the door) wouldn't be usable, so was thinking of getting a 110VAC to 12VDC converter just so that when I'm plugged into 110, I have everything operational. Mind you, I don't forsee using the tap/pump, so really I'd only be missing a few lights without 12V power. Thought I'd see if anyone had any suggestions on someone who hasn't quite decided what the best/easiest/most inexpensive route is.


Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
I am not aware of any factory option for an exhaust fan above the stove. Where does it exhaust to? Pictures would be helpful.
I didn't realize that. Likely after market - and it exhausts out the side. Again, let me get some pictures up this weekend. I can also do a more thorough check for the model/make of the fan while I'm at it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
The recall required metal plates to be welded to the frame where it comes out from under the fibreglass in the front. Frequently the plates are welded on the side, and bottom of the square tube.
Thanks -- I'll check this. I found a rusted square nut in the storage cabinet under the front bench seat -- loose -- although another one a bit further was still connected (to the frame?) I suspect I might need to do further inspection and possibly check how well it is being held to the frame.


Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
The fridge that was probably installed originally was an RM211. They are plentiful and cheep. Some people will try to sell them for $200, or more. Just keep looking. They were also common on tent trailers of the same vintage as your Trillium. The canvas and lifting mechanisms are now wearing out and people convert them to a snowmobile, or quad trailer. The appliances get tossed. Keep looking in kijiji, and your local wreckers, (camper vans). I bought one for $80, but then came across two more for free.
This is extremely helpful. In my neck of the woods (Greater Toronto area) there's only one RM211 listed right now -- for $300. I'll keep my eyes out for one, though -- that would be the best solution!

Thank you once again!
__________________
Mike on the Bog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2013, 05:29 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 355
...Here to share with you my own experience. When I bought it, the Trill. only has 120VAC. I re-wire the whole trailer, including towing harness plus ebrake controller and towing harness in towing vehicle by myself. It, now consists of 120VAC, 12VDC and also 12V battery. The following is my circuit panel with fuses and ratings also spec. It sounds and safe. Share with you...The hints lie in the...Fuse Panel Ratings.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG596.jpg   IMG599.jpg  

IMG678.jpg  
__________________
Thinh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2013, 05:33 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 355
That is my last camping photo with the roof vent was.....opposite direction. Hopefully within this week when the weather allows, I will finish the paint job with the new, right direction of my roof vent. I'll post photos later....
__________________
Thinh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2013, 06:15 PM   #7
Junior Member
 
Name: Mike
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 4
Thanks Thinh. That setup looks amazing. How important is it to have electric brakes on a 1300? What are the main reasons why this is done?

One other question -- it appears in your last picture that you've raised the trailer so that the tires aren't touching the ground -- is this the recommended way to maintain the trailer (should I do this when the trailer is sitting)?
__________________
Mike on the Bog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2013, 06:49 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
David Tilston's Avatar
 
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
Posts: 5,315
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
Sorry, I poorly worded my question. Should the trailer's external lighting (running/turn/brake) lights be grounded to the frame? As mentioned, there was a thin grounding wire from near the hitch to somewhere near the heater that was loose -- given whomever wired it last had no clue what they were doing, I assumed they had tried to ground the 12V as I can't see why else a ground wire would've been wired there. I can confirm that my 110VAC is properly grounded to the frame now (from the point of the circuit breaker, and my tester sensed proper ground on each subsequent connection).
This is a mater of some contention. Cars often have a -12VDC ground, and to some degree, the ball will be grounded to the car's -12VDC. Some advise grounding the 12VDC from the trailer to the ground as well. But to me that is a path for circulating currents. I would just use a wire, or wires to provide the return path for the battery.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
Hmm... my Trillium had front yellow, and rear yellow on the sides of the trailer, and of course the rear brake/signal lights. I configured it such that the front yellow are 'always on' running, the rear yellows are 'always on', but switch to signal lights when I signal. That's not correct? Easy fix!
Most trailers have red in the back. New red lenses, and a bit of rewiring and you will be the same as everyone else.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
I'll get back to it this weekend and will send pics. Yes, the unit is a Duo Therm -- it had a 110VAC connection and a 12VDC connection, with a small switch that allows me to switch from 110/12V -- I assumed that was for a fan, unless it is a "3 way" heater if there is such a thing?
You may be in luck. Most Duo-Therm furnaces, in Trillium trailers are strictly gravity furnaces, but they did make a fan for them:
Trillium Furnaces - 9-3608 Blower
Is that what you have? You lucky dog.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
I was more thinking that I'd forgo battery charging all-together, and just have the 12VDC lines ready for when I connect a deep cycle battery to it when I'm going 'off the grid'. (Only thing that wouldn't work right now would be the 110V fridge). But then I got to thinking that without having the 12VDC powered at all times, my pump and a few internal (and one light just outside the door) wouldn't be usable, so was thinking of getting a 110VAC to 12VDC converter just so that when I'm plugged into 110, I have everything operational. Mind you, I don't forsee using the tap/pump, so really I'd only be missing a few lights without 12V power. Thought I'd see if anyone had any suggestions on someone who hasn't quite decided what the best/easiest/most inexpensive route is.
For what a battery charging converter costs, I would instead go solar. An old 120VAC to 12VDC converter, like was installed originally, would work for you, as long as you don't try to charge the battery with it, (they boil batteries). Watch kijiji, or an RV wrecker. I would not pay more then $20 for one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
Thanks -- I'll check this. I found a rusted square nut in the storage cabinet under the front bench seat -- loose -- although another one a bit further was still connected (to the frame?) I suspect I might need to do further inspection and possibly check how well it is being held to the frame.
On a 1300, there are usually four bolts under the gaucho, (front couch, and bunk bed), and two under the dinette seats that hold the trailer to the frame. That is it, other then wires, and gas fittings. The 4500 adds two more bolts under the dinette.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
This is extremely helpful. In my neck of the woods (Greater Toronto area) there's only one RM211 listed right now -- for $300. I'll keep my eyes out for one, though -- that would be the best solution!
Get two if you can. It's always good to have a spare. The RM211 is not very high tech. There is no thermostat on 12VDC. And you have to light it from the back. But current models require some power, even when they are running on propane, and the small ones don't have a freezer. The freezer in an RM211 is big enough for ice cubes, but not much more. I am assuming that you have the required vents on the road side that an absorption style fridge requires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
Thanks Thinh. That setup looks amazing. How important is it to have electric brakes on a 1300? What are the main reasons why this is done?
Brakes are always good. If your trailer is not packed very good, or if your don't do up your lug nuts tight enough:
Almost lost a wheel
Then the trailer may start to sway, sometimes enough to cause the tow vehicle to lose control. Tapping the manual break lever on the controller brings the trailer back under control. Not to mention the fact that you can stop in a much shorter distance. I drive a Savana 1500, which should not need brakes, but I appreciate having them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
One other question -- it appears in your last picture that you've raised the trailer so that the tires aren't touching the ground -- is this the recommended way to maintain the trailer (should I do this when the trailer is sitting)?
Not recommended. You should have some support at the axle as well. But if you don't, then just be gentle and don't bounce too hard when in the trailer. You don't want to bend the frame.
__________________
David Tilston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2013, 07:03 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
Hmm... my Trillium had front yellow, and rear yellow on the sides of the trailer, and of course the rear brake/signal lights.
Just like your car, the marker lights at the very rear - but still on the side - of the trailer should be red, not yellow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
I configured it such that the front yellow are 'always on' running, the rear yellows are 'always on', but switch to signal lights when I signal. That's not correct? Easy fix!
Flashing markers as signal lights is great, but with a 4-pin connection you don't have the signals to do that... unless you have added a converter logic circuit which is not readily available. If you just connect the side markers to the rear combined stop/turn signals, they will go on and off with brake activation: not right.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2013, 07:16 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Name: Ron
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft (green grape)
Ontario
Posts: 445
Sometimes with the wiring it,s best to start fresh. A good idea is to run. A grd wire from car to all 12 volt litres as well. The side (left & right ) litres are markers and should be lit when main lights and parking litres are on. The rear 2 litres should be markers and the brightest filament is for brake and signals.
__________________
RRJR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2013, 07:18 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Thomas G.'s Avatar
 
Name: Kinga DeRode
Trailer: For Sale Or Rent
Rooms to Let 50 Cents
Posts: 5,103
Using the frame as the ground conductor is a pet peeve of mine. I would recommend to run a separate ground wire from the 4 pin connector back to each and every light fixture (wire is cheap). If you want to attach this wire to the frame at some point, fine, it can't hurt, but don't depend on the frame as a conductor, as the connections to the frame inevitably are the weak link.
__________________
UHaul and Burro owners, join the UHaul Campers on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/529276933859491/
Thomas G. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2013, 07:40 PM   #12
Junior Member
 
Name: Mike
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 4
Well, I did forwarn I was new to all this. Thank you immensely for all the pointers and assistance!

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
This is a mater of some contention. Cars often have a -12VDC ground, and to some degree, the ball will be grounded to the car's -12VDC. Some advise grounding the 12VDC from the trailer to the ground as well. But to me that is a path for circulating currents. I would just use a wire, or wires to provide the return path for the battery.
Good -- so other than my miswiring of the rear (currently yellow) lights, and finding some replacement lenses, I'm all set. Dare I ask -- for Canadians, are there good sources for parts such as replacement lenses?

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
You may be in luck. Most Duo-Therm furnaces, in Trillium trailers are strictly gravity furnaces, but they did make a fan for them: Is that what you have? You lucky dog.
That's the unit that I have! Can't confirm it works (I haven't tested it yet) but I plan to test the unit this weekend (and do a bit of general maintenance/cleaning on it at the same time). Well, I'm happy that *one thing* in my trailer makes me 'lucky' (the wiring left me feeling that the previous owners were lucky for not having had a fire).

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
For what a battery charging converter costs, I would instead go solar. An old 120VAC to 12VDC converter, like was installed originally, would work for you, as long as you don't try to charge the battery with it, (they boil batteries). Watch kijiji, or an RV wrecker. I would not pay more then $20 for one.
I like the idea of going solar, and perhaps skipping the whole converter route all-together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
On a 1300, there are usually four bolts under the gaucho, (front couch, and bunk bed), and two under the dinette seats that hold the trailer to the frame.
Thank you -- this will be what I inspect first & thoroughly when I get the chance!

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
I am assuming that you have the required vents on the road side that an absorption style fridge requires.
I saw more vents than I understood what they were there for (I saw the heater's vents, but yes, there were others that I assumed were for the fridge. Let me send pictures over the weekend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Brakes are always good. If your trailer is not packed very good, or if your don't do up your lug nuts tight enough then the trailer may start to sway, sometimes enough to cause the tow vehicle to lose control. Tapping the manual break lever on the controller brings the trailer back under control. Not to mention the fact that you can stop in a much shorter distance. I drive a Savana 1500, which should not need brakes, but I appreciate having them.
Dare I ask how difficult it is to install this as a retro-fit, or am I better to have this professionally done by someone?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Flashing markers as signal lights is great, but with a 4-pin connection you don't have the signals to do that... unless you have added a converter logic circuit which is not readily available. If you just connect the side markers to the rear combined stop/turn signals, they will go on and off with brake activation: not right.
This makes all the sense in the world. I'll admit I was a bit perplexed, but followed how I saw someone had attempted to wire it previously (I mentioned one side marker was inverted, so assumed they were also for signaling). Easy fix -- and thanks for the guidance, Brian!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
Using the frame as the ground conductor is a pet peeve of mine. I would recommend to run a separate ground wire from the 4 pin connector back to each and every light fixture (wire is cheap). If you want to attach this wire to the frame at some point, fine, it can't hurt, but don't depend on the frame as a conductor, as the connections to the frame inevitably are the weak link.
Thanks for the guidance, Tom! I actually did rewire everything from the start and did exactly that (separate ground from 4 pin back to every light fixture). I just wasn't sure if I *also* needed to then connect that ground to the frame. Sounds like it's not necessary. So other than a miswiring of two lights (easily fixed since I used connectors) it seems I'm getting somewhere!

Folks: thank you so much for the guidance.
__________________
Mike on the Bog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2013, 09:42 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 355
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike on the Bog View Post
Thanks Thinh. That setup looks amazing. How important is it to have electric brakes on a 1300? What are the main reasons why this is done?

One other question -- it appears in your last picture that you've raised the trailer so that the tires aren't touching the ground -- is this the recommended way to maintain the trailer (should I do this when the trailer is sitting)?
Like David said, brake is always important for a trailer and also prolong your towing vehicle brakes' pads on top of safety. My own decision for ebrake due to my towing vehicle is a little one, 4 cylinders engine and I pack a lot of stuffs during my camping trip(you could see my towing vehicle in attached photo-a Toyota Matrix wagon). Secondly, you are right on maintenance of trailer's suspension system. At home whenever I park the trailer longer than one day I would raise it up above ground and support the frame with jack stands...Sorry for late response. About the hint for electrical wiring...Due to re-wiring trailer, one would remember that it will involve a combination of different electric circuitries: Towing vehicle 12VDC with it's battery, trailer 12VDC for reception from towing vehicle, trailer own battery, 12VDC for trailer from converter, 120VAC for trailer to hook up with shore power. So when mention about the frame as ground, one would wonder..WHAT GROUND OF WHAT CIRCUITRY???? As the spec from my photo of home-make panel, it said in the note: Frame as ground for batteries(towing vehicle and trailer) also green wire ground bond from 120VAC as COMMON BOND. FLOAT is common 120VAC(white wire)...Good luck on your works. Be patient and have courage to do it. Cheer-safety is first and safety means always in doubt and TEST-
Attached Thumbnails
IMG679.jpg  
__________________
Thinh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2013, 07:43 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thinh View Post
Secondly, you are right on maintenance of trailer's suspension system. At home whenever I park the trailer longer than one day I would raise it up above ground and support the frame with jack stands...
Okay, but I hope two of those jack stands are supporting the frame right behind the axle mounting brackets, and it's not just supported at the ends on the four jacks which are visible in the photos. These trailers' frames are not intended to carry the whole weight of the trailer across that span, especially for any length of time or with anyone walking inside.
__________________

__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
trillium


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1976 Trillium 1300 dannyboy Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 2 05-06-2013 05:01 PM
Our new/old 1976 Trillium 1300 bklunder Hi, I am.... 2 08-28-2012 08:44 PM
BC | 1976 Trillium 1300 idlebabyboomer Classified Archives 3 07-06-2012 09:44 AM
MB | 1976 Trillium 1300 - Winnipeg Colin in Winnipeg Classified Archives 3 09-12-2011 10:06 PM
ON | 1976 Trillium 1300 oldman Classified Archives 0 05-27-2011 08:49 AM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:30 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.