At 6'3" I'd be slightly concerned about how well you'll fit in the Scamp's loft space The loft bed is only very slightly over 6' long and has a fiberglass wall at both the head and foot of the bed. You could always get a standard-layout scamp
and convert the loft (as Lynne and I have), but the better Scamp
shower is the one in the Deluxe layout, which extends left-to-right just next to the loft and would prevent you from doing this mod.
We do have several tall people who do fine in the dimensions of the loft space, but if you're a stretch-out and sleep kinda guy you might want to visit someone with a 5er to see how you and the loft get along. (We fiberglass people are a very friendly lot. Something about the gelcoat gives us a permanently bright and shiny disposition.)
The second thing to note is that the Scamp
shower enclosure needs careful watching for leaks
and, as is the case with all RV showers, you can quickly run out of water and gray tank capacity when you don't have hookups. We tend to use campground showers for these reasons.
We have had great fun modding our Scamp 5er. We opted to keep most of the fiberglass cabinetry because it is lightweight and easy to clean, but added wood cabinets in the loft and dinette overheads, installed Formica counter tops, replaced the cheap MDF doors with something much nicer, modified our loft and dinette layouts and did dozens of other mods that really have made our trailer into a home-on-the-road. That said, modding a fiberglass trailer, with its curved contours and never-straight-or-true walls is a unique carpentry challenge.
My main advice for modding are to make and test fit cardboard templates of everything before you cut the wood, and that you shoud build light
. Most of the cabinetry wood I used was 1/4" and 3/8" hardwood ply, which is lightweight and plenty strong for a camper.
Thank you for your service . . . stay safe and come back to go camping with your wife!