No wonder the Burro floor is rotted - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-21-2010, 07:23 PM   #15
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Trailer: 1980 Burro
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Originally Posted by Andy B View Post
Thanks for the information on how much epoxy you used. I had been planning on getting 1.5 gal but after hearing your experience, I will get 2 gal. It sounds like you did a great job with the floor. I have not yet decided yet on what to use for a finished floor.

Prior to starting work on the floor I rebuilt the frame including replacing the axle with a 2000 lb Dexter axle with brakes. I used a 10 deg up angle because it looked like that was original and there was plenty of clearance in the wheel well. When I was locating the axle the frame was upside-down so it was easy to make small axle location adjustments before welding on the frame mounting brackets. I locked a loose hitch ball in the hitch and put a large washer on the threaded part of the hitch ball. The washer was large enough that it could easily rotate on the hitch ball shaft with a tape measure hooked to the inside edge of the washer. I adjusted the placement of the ends of the axle using the tape measure until both sides were the same distance from the hitch ball. It was within 1/64" when I was done.

As part of the frame rebuild, I also replaced the hitch, added an additional cross piece in front of the furthest forward cross member, and added two supports between each of the cross pieces, I also added much stronger support for the floor at the doorway. I added a 2" receiver in the rear and reinforcement along each side of the frame. I also added some angle iron in the triangle part of the frame. My source for most of the angle iron for the new frame supports is old bed frame rails that I have picked up for free. I also added a spare tire winch under the frame just behind the axle. I welded on supports in the front and rear for fold up stabilizers and numerous tie-down points on the frame that could be used to secure a tarp or lock the trailer to itself or something else.
Here are some pictures of the frame rebuild. The two lengthwise main frame supports are rectangular tubes made from 11 gage steel. 11 gage is a little less than 1/8" thick. My frame came from the factory with welded on supports on the inside where the frame bends. Other than the heavy coating of rust there were no cracks, sags or bends. I removed the rust with a wire wheel in a 4" angle grinder. On each side I added 8 feet of 11 gage steel to the outside of the frame rails.
Attached Thumbnails
FrameOut.jpg   RustRemoval1.jpg  

RustRemoved.jpg   AxleRemoved.jpg  

Frame2.jpg   Frame1.jpg  

Frame3.jpg   Frame4.jpg  

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Old 09-21-2010, 07:28 PM   #16
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More frame pictures...
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Frame7.jpg   Frame8.jpg  

Frame10.jpg   Frame6.jpg  

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Old 09-21-2010, 07:31 PM   #17
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And some more
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Frame11.jpg   Frame12.jpg  

Frame13.jpg  
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Old 09-21-2010, 07:36 PM   #18
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Final painting, with new 14"wheels.
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Rolling1.jpg   Rolling2.jpg  

Rolling3.jpg   Rolling4.jpg  

Rolling5.jpg   Rolling6.jpg  

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Old 09-21-2010, 09:28 PM   #19
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Wow

That framing you added (?) for the step looks really stout. No flexing there!

What are the loops for? (The ones that look like safety chain loops but in other places.)

Thanks for the photos

Raya
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Old 09-22-2010, 08:33 AM   #20
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Nice work !
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Old 09-22-2010, 09:12 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raya L. View Post
Wow

That framing you added (?) for the step looks really stout. No flexing there!

What are the loops for? (The ones that look like safety chain loops but in other places.)

Thanks for the photos

Raya
Raya, The original support under the doorway was two stubs of angle iron. Each one was a different size, like they just used scraps. The new support is 1 1/4" angle iron from old bed frame rails.

The old floor was really rotted and felt like you would fall through, so I decided to add the additional supports at the doorway and on both sides of the walking area down the center of the trailer.

The "loops" are made from half links of 3/8" chain, there are 4 on each side and 2 in front and 2 in back. I put them on for 2 reasons.

1) So there would be good places to tie down a tarp if I want to cover it for the winter.

2) If I want to lock the trailer, either at home or when camping, I can use a padlock and a loop of chain or cable through the wheels or to a tree and connect it to those locations.

Andy
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Old 09-24-2010, 05:11 PM   #22
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Trailer: 1983 Burro 13 ft
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An attempt at Burro photo posting.....

Thank you Donna....the link was very helpful. I had attempted what others do routinely and your link supported my past efforts. I still seem to fall short and am beginning to think its my laptop. I did just as your link suggested and when I hit "upload" Windows xp says it "can't open that window"... Mr. Symantec will act as my enforcer and check out the laptop for baggage. Thanks to all.
Your work is above reproach, Andy. Looks great from here.
Best wishes,
Mike

ps...this goofy thing just said "windows xp cannot display this webpage" when I hit "upload" from my picture selection....yet again.
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Old 09-25-2010, 06:45 AM   #23
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Mike it sounds like your anti-virus. I run two machines with XP, one with 2000 pro and one on Vista. None have the condition as described, but I run McAfee. I've heard on other forums people have problems with Symantec and different forum software. While not as elegant and will cause problems in the future, you can post on a free picture hosting site and link back here. See this post by Janet for more info: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post217275
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Old 07-05-2011, 03:31 PM   #24
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I just realized that I never posted pictures of the new floor installation, here they are... Old floor removal.
Attached Thumbnails
Floor0.jpg   Floor1.jpg  

Floor3.jpg   Floor4.jpg  

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Old 07-05-2011, 03:39 PM   #25
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Some more pictures
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Floor8.jpg   FloorInside1.jpg  

FloorInside2.jpg   FloorInside3.jpg  

FloorOutside1.jpg   FloorSeam1.jpg  

FloorSeam2.jpg  
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Old 07-05-2011, 03:44 PM   #26
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And some more, good sealing at the wheel wells, the source of much of the water that rotted the first floor.
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Wheelwell1.jpg   Wheelwell2.jpg  

Wheelwell3.jpg   Wheelwell4.jpg  

Wheelwell5.jpg   Wheelwell6.jpg  

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Old 07-05-2011, 04:13 PM   #27
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Inside attachment to the walls. I have been using 20 oz fiberglass and epoxy resin. The 20 oz is very heavy/thick glass. There are 2 layers where the walls and floor join, 0ne layer 3" wide and one layer 5"wide. I cut the strips at 45 degrees to the glass cloth weave direction so all the fibers go across the seam. There is also a 4" wide layer of the same cloth on the outside.

The center seam between the 2 shell halves was cracked both front and rear where it meets the floor. Cracked in front at top and bottom of window and rear at bottom of window. When they made the Burro they glued the halves together with thickened resin, but did not use any fiberglass to bridge the seam.
Attached Thumbnails
FrontCrack.jpg   FrontCrackRepair.jpg  

RearCrack.jpg   RearCrackRepair.jpg  

WallFloor.jpg   WheelWell1.jpg  

WheelWell2.jpg   BoltHeads.jpg  

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Old 07-05-2011, 04:25 PM   #28
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you're gonna get alot of inquires about repairing trailers excellent work and documentation.
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