No wonder the Burro floor is rotted - Page 7 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-26-2012, 08:09 AM   #85
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Name: Donna D
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Hummm, that's a strap hinge. Since I don't own a Burro I can't tell you if it's the original type. Hopefully someone will pop in and let you know. I'll poke around and see if I can find any info in the archives.

On edit: Okay Jane, I found in the archives, the strap hinge you're showing... doesn't look like the original. Maybe that's why it broke? Here's a thread that may interest you with pictures and links: Burro Door Hinges?

Good luck!
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Old 05-26-2012, 03:14 PM   #86
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Door Hinges

Donna,
Thanks for the link. I have already bought new hinges that are like the originals so I'm good there. The whole shape of the door is another matter. It has been hanging wrong for so long that there is a small hole in it on the lower left side. It is hanging really low and the clearance is messed up all around. It's even a little warped, when closed it sticks out at the area where the bottom hinge should be. Guess the first thing I need to do is choose a method for fixing the surface that the hinge screws will go into. All that is rotten too.

It would be great if someone could post a close up photo of a door that is correct so I could get an idea of the placement of the hinges. I have looked at several photos but they're not close enough to really get an idea of spacing. I know that may be different among other trailers but it would just be a reference point.

Thanks for all the help.... Some day I'll actually go camping in it.
jd
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Old 05-26-2012, 06:40 PM   #87
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Well, there again until someone steps in, check out these two threads for hinge solutions... fixing that area:

Redoing Burro door hinges - door fell off!

Next problem... Hinge on outside door broke off!!

Hopefully a moderator will notice this discussion and split off the door hinge conversation from the floor conversation...
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:19 PM   #88
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Name: Creek
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Well, I have the floor completely finished. My onley problem is the dang door... I cannot get the thing to seal perfectly so water won't sneak in. This is very frustrating! Please, if anyone has an idea, HELP! I have tried all different types of seals. ):
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:25 PM   #89
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my phone is terrible!

only
seel
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:49 PM   #90
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Door and "Perfect" in the same sentence???

Creek,

If you will look at this thread you may find some tips and also look at the ones that are listed by Donna D. just above your post.
Burro Door Problem

I have made progress with mine but when referring to my Burro, I don't figure I'll ever be able to use the words perfect and door together!!!! None of the door frame edges are the same width on mine so it will probably be a work in progress for sometime to completely stop all water intrusion around that area. Experiment with different width and thickness in the seals. I think I'm gonna have to use at least 2 kinds on my door to make it watertight. Good luck.... jd
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:20 AM   #91
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Great thread guys!

I'm about to tackle this same job with a Scamp next week.

I have a question for those that have done the floor replacement. Would it be possible to hoist the fiberglass shell off the floor if you cut the bottom (underside) lip and the upper connections away from the floor?

By leaving the old floor intact on the trailer frame, wouldn't that allow the remaining floor to be used as a template? With the fiberglass body lifted from the trailer frame and floor, the old floor could be replaced, and then the fiberglass shell lowered and glassed back onto the new floor.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Steve
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:36 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creek Conley View Post
Well, I have the floor completely finished.
Creek,

Great to hear you finished the floor, did you have any problems or did it go as planned? We would love to see some pictures!!

Andy
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Old 06-30-2012, 02:21 PM   #93
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Guess you could, but.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevewolverton View Post
Great thread guys!

I have a question for those that have done the floor replacement. Would it be possible to hoist the fiberglass shell off the floor if you cut the bottom (underside) lip and the upper connections away from the floor?

Thanks,
Steve
Steve,

First off, I don't have a Scamp so I may be a little off here. I guess you could raise the body as you described but you may lose a part of the body that you will need later. On my Burro, that bottom lip is actually part of the outer shell and serves as the bottom edge of the gap that the floor slides into. If you cut that lip off you have in effect done away with the gap. It also serves as a guide for placement of the floor and a bottom support. Many have also used that lip to completely seal the bottom of the trailer to avoid the future risk of repeated floor rot.

Another reason that I wouldn't do it is that even though I feel the epoxy and fiberglass bonding of my new floor to the inside shell is very strong, I have also put in bolts extending through both the top and bottom lips. Out near the edges of the floor, the frame does not come that far out so the bolts will serve as a backup to ensure that the shell and floor are held together. I know it's overkill to some but it makes me feel better so grade 8 bolts are in mine.

Good luck with your project and please let us know how you tackle it.
jd
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Old 06-30-2012, 10:32 PM   #94
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Hi Jane D,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jane D. View Post
Good luck with your project and please let us know how you tackle it.
Thanks, and I will keep you posted. I admit I haven't poked around under the floor much yet. I'm going to start the dissection soon. If the front wood isn't bad, then I will only replace the rear section which has rot.

A concern I have is the Scamp is connected in the middle and I don't want the two halves of the camper to separate by hoisting it from the top. I need to investigate more, but just trying to figure the best method to tackle this project.

Thanks,
Steve
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