Old fridges - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-11-2007, 09:12 AM   #15
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Peggy;

I've done a few of these, and it is worth taking the time to be sure your fridge cannot be fixed, given the price of a replacement. A couple of points:

Try to get a manual for your fridge. If you cannot find one, look at the ones in this site's document center, especially the troubleshooting one.

No RV fridge goes to the "back of the cabinet". There is space required there for proper air circulation. Make sure you check that the coils are clean, and the vent panels are not plugged.

No RV Fridge is designed to run from warm on 12 volt. The 12 volt circuit is only a "keep temperature" option, and is best assisted with a booster fan on the coil side of the fridge.

If you are running on 110 volt, then you should have a 110 volt plug in the rear of the fridge. This is usually accessible from outside the trailer, through the lower cooling panel. Make sure you have 110 power to that plug but testing it with a light.

If you are trying to run on propane, make sure the pilot is lit. Again, you can check this by opening the outside panel. If the pilot cannot be maintained, maybe the burner require cleaning.

Fridges that have sat idle for some time will often have some of the refrigerant crystallize, usually in the most inconventient spot. The actions mentioned above (bumpy road/turn it upside down) may help.

It is also possible that your refrigerant needs recharging, looing the ammonia from the refrigeration through a small leak. I had to do that with one fridge, and found a local shop that could do it. I removed the fridge and took it to them. That also gave me the opportunity to properly seal the back of the fridge compartment, solving a number of leak problems I had.

With my Fiber Stream, the ignitor was not working, and the previous owner lit the pilot with a match. Turned out the problem was a failed switch, which I replaced with a generic one from an appliance store. I also disassembled the propane supply line/burner and cleaned it. It was very sooty. If you do that, make sure you take special care with the propane flow orifice. Soak it, and blow it dry with a hair dryer, but don't stick anything hard into the orifice hole.
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Old 06-11-2007, 02:32 PM   #16
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Hi again, just so that I wouldn`t have to eat my words, I went outside this morning and plugged in my power to the trailer and found that in a couple hours, my fridge was AOK cold on 110V... ...Benny
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Old 06-12-2007, 11:43 AM   #17
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So, I'm trying to give this old fridge a chance...The access to coils is thru the outside vent, which slides sideways in a channel.The vent has no cover, so yes, there was lots of road dust in there, and on the coils. Is there supposed to be a cover over that grill? Inside the trailer. the fridge plugs in, with a cord that comes off the left side of the fridge inside the cupboard. You have to leave the cupboard door open and plug it in outside, into the only outlet in the trailer, on the front of the cupboard. Is that the way it should be?
Next I tried to get the fridge out, removed all the screws in the front plate of the fridge. Then removed all the screws in a sheet metal cover on the L of the fridge, at the rear of the cupboard ( not sure what that does.) But the fridge wouldn't budge. Now I see the big cooling coil inside the fridge is larger than the opening in the back of the fridge.so that must have to be removed in order to get the fridge out... On and on .. I appreciate the help, this stuff probably seems so elementary to some of you guys! Thanks!
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Old 06-12-2007, 06:34 PM   #18
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Other than flipping the fridge, did you try the previously mentioned remedies first? Removing the fridge would be the last option.....I put in a 110v receptacle under the counter and that is where my fridge plugs in......Benny
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Old 06-19-2007, 10:32 PM   #19
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Trailer: 73 Boler 13 ft
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Well, we have decided this old fridge is toast. We were assuming we would have to get a new one, 3 way, for $1000 or more. On my way home from work, I saw a little trailer beside to the road, so pulled over to have a chat. They put their money into an DC and electric fridge, and a good solar panel. Says the battery will keep it running for at least 14 hours, but with their $200 solar panel, it never is an issue. Is there a consensus yet, about this issue? We do want the ability to "boondock"... Thanks!
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Old 06-30-2007, 03:44 PM   #20
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Well I took some great advise and flipped my 'dead' fridge upside down for a few days. Put it back upright, plugged her in and guess what....seems to be working just fine!! Had a cup of water frozen in the freezer just overnight (i might add that this is the tiniest freezer i have ever seen!).

So...for now i don't have to worry about replacing my fridge

thanks
Robin
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:01 PM   #21
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Question for everyone... When i was hooking up my replacement 3-way fridge [Old Dometic model] (the old one caught fire due to old wiring), I inquired about hooking the propane at an RV shop, they told me that you must have 12V supplied to the fridge while running in propane mode....

This past weekend I ran the fridge on propane and left 12V supplied to it but didnt really notice any drain on my battery. Note: My 12V to the fridge is off a breaker panel, I'd prefer to leave the power off if not required...

So does anyone know if its true that the fridge requires 12V in propane mode.. My only thought would be thermostat by my fridge has a knob on the back 0-9+Max so i doubt theres an electric thermostat.

Thoughts?
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:12 PM   #22
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Question for everyone... When i was hooking up my replacement 3-way fridge [Old Dometic model] (the old one caught fire due to old wiring), I inquired about hooking the propane at an RV shop, they told me that you must have 12V supplied to the fridge while running in propane mode....
I'd say there's been some mandatory drug testing going on at said RV dealership... Unless they think some RV's have a 12v fan to move air around the backs of the coils or something...
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Old 07-03-2007, 07:28 PM   #23
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I'd say there's been some mandatory drug testing going on at said RV dealership... Unless they think some RV's have a 12v fan to move air around the backs of the coils or something...

My thoughts precisely Herb, Im thinking she was pointing out the obvious... Being that it cant run in 12V without 12V
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Old 07-03-2007, 10:14 PM   #24
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I think some models DO use 12volts for the control circuits which would have a minimal current draw for sure.

As I understand it many newer models have this same requirement.
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:31 PM   #25
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I think some models DO use 12volts for the control circuits which would have a minimal current draw for sure.

As I understand it many newer models have this same requirement.
The fridge in my "big" fiberglass rv (43 footer) is electrically ignited when on propane, maybe that's what the RV dude was talking about..... Larry
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Old 07-04-2007, 12:13 AM   #26
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Found a manual for my Dometic RM24 (perhaps the first 3-way fridge ever produced it seems). The wiring diagram shows that both 12V and 110V are completely disabled when in propane/off mode....

http://www.gasrefrigeration.net/dometic_manuals.htm
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