Packing Wheels With Grease from a Newbie

[Andrew Gibbens]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

It's a chance to get your hands really, really greasy....

My top tip in dealing with this if you are miles from home (and so no fancy automotive handcleaners available) is odd, but it works:
- wipe off excess grease;
- use a big blob of margarine and work into your hands;
- if you like abrasive cleaners, add a spoonful of sugar to the margarine;
- wipe off excess;
- finally clean hands in dishwasher soap (I think that's the US term for what we Brits call detergent) and warm water;
- at a push, dishwasher soap and cold water will do.

It sounds implausible, but this really does work! It's good enough that I prefer it to automotive handcleaners even when they're available.

[Kevin K]

Clean car oil works also when in a pinch to clean your hands.

[Denece]

Thomas G has it right. I used to work for West Marine and that was exactly what I read on the bearing buddy package
It seems to me that adding grease would eventually force grease past the seal. In my mind that seems like it would then lead to loss of grease at high temperatures ( when the grease would be more liquid).
On our Compact II the side with the bad seal had tons of grease flung all around. Some PO had drilled a hole in the dust cap to keep it filled. Yuck!

[realgranola]

Oh ! I forgot my comma. I don't want to pack my wheels from the grease of a newbie ! Hahaha !

[ThomasE]

I swapped out my bearing buddies with regular caps when I regreased my bearings. Bearing buddies will just fill up the hub with grease to prevent water from getting in for boat trailers. There's not much mixing going on when you top off the bearing buddy plus there's the danger of overfilling. You really need to get the old grease out and fresh grease in to do the job properly.

[realgranola]

I went and had the job done for $86. It would've been nice to learn to do it myself or to have watched the mechanic do it , but I had my three little boys with me. I feel much better now that it's done and I went on a one night trip with me,myself and I. Afterwards I even backed it into my storage space- by myself ! I'm feeling pretty proud tosay the least

[Carol H]

Julie, WELL DONE! Next time it will feel even better.

[Larry,C]

Packing wheel bearings is easy. Having said that it is also an easy way to cause a bearing failure if it is done incorrectly.

Here is a list of the tools you will need:
1. Big flat blade screwdriver
2. Wrench that fits your axle nut
3. Pliers
4. Jack capable of safely lifting the trailer
5. Jack stand
6. Lug nut wrench (I recommend using a torque wrench for tightening)

Here is a list of other things you will need:
1. Axle grease
2. Solvent to clean bearings (mineral spirits or brake cleaner or both)
3. New grease seals
4. Clean rags or paper towels
5. Plastic gloves if you want to try to keep from getting your hands dirty
*6. New bearings if defects or damage is found

OK - I think we are ready to start.
* Important Note - ALWAYS THINK SAFETY - Take your time - Be careful

1. Position the trailer on a solid level surface (concrete is best) with plenty of room around each wheel ( I hate feeling cramped)
2. Chock the wheel(s) on the other side of the trailer both front and rear
3. Loosen the lug nuts 1/2 turn on the wheel you will do first. They may be very tight so be careful. Do not remove them yet just break them free.
4. Position the jack under the axle or near the axle on the frame. Make sure it is positioned so that it will not slip off.
5. Slowly lift the trailer until the tire is free to spin.
6. Immediately position the jack stand where it will support the axle and still allow the wheel to spin. Lower the jack until the weight is on the jack stand and the wheel still spin freely. *Make sure the weight of the trailer is safely supported before you take the wheel off.
7. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire.
8. Remove the center hub cap with the large flat screwdriver. There is a lip on the cap where you can pry fist one side and then the other a little at a time until the cap comes off.
9. Wipe the excess grease off the axle nut. There will be either a cotter pin or a retainer clip that keeps the axle nut from loosening. If it is a cotter pin use your pliers to straighten the prongs and pull the pin. If it is a retainer clip you can pry it off with the screwdriver.
10. As you remove items from the axle, line them up on a rag or paper in the order you remove them so you can put them back on in the same order.
11. Remove the axle nut by turning it counter clockwise.
12. Remove the washer next.
13. Remove the outer bearing.
14. Grab both sides of the brake drum or spindle and pull it off the axle. *Be careful it may be heavy.
15. CAUTION Brake dust may contain asbestos - no not breath the dust.

This is a good time to inspect your brakes if you have them!

16. The inner bearing will be held inside the brake drum by the grease seal. To remove the seal you will have to knock it out from the inside. I use a brass rod so that I don't damage the brake drum or bearing. Tap around the diameter of the seal a little at a time until it falls out. Discard the removed seal and put the inner bearing on your rag.
17. Clean the bearings THOROUGHLY! Remove all grease and dirt. You can use mineral spirits or I like brake parts cleaner in the aerosol can.
18. Carefully remove all solvent from the bearings. If any remains it will break down your grease and lead to a lubrication failure. Repeat - remove all solvent!
19. Closely inspect the bearings for wear or damage. You should look for chipping, cracking or wear on the bearings. Use a magnifying glass if you have one to inspect. Replace the bearings if any abnormalities are detected.
20. Clean all of the rest of the parts removed and make sure they are clean and dry - NO REMAINING SOLVENT
21. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Pay close attention to the bearing race where the bearing seats for wear or cracking.
22. Pack the bearings with grease. You must fill all of the voids in the bearings with grease. As a young man I was taught to put a glob of grease in the palm of my hand and press the bearing into the grease until it squeezed through the bearing. PACK IT FULL
23. Install the inner bearing into the brake drum and then carefully tap the new seal back into the brake drum. I like to use a small block of wood and be careful to tap it in straight.
24. Wipe a little grease on the new seal and carefully slide the drum, bearing and seal back onto the axle. Take care not to damage the new seal during reassembly.
25. With the drum in place fill the bearing cavity with grease and install the packed outer bearing, washer and axle nut. Do not tighten the nut yet!
26. Important step - tightening the axle nut - over or under tightening can result in premature bearing failure. Hand tighten or use a wrench with LIGHT pressure while turning the drum. You want to tighten enough to fully seat the bearings so keep turning the drum while you tighten until the axle nut is tight without a lot of force. Back the nut a little bit (maybe 1/16th of a turn) until you feel a small about of play in the brake drum - not too much.
27. Spin the drum to make sure you have the correct axle nut tightness. Reinstall the cotter pin and spread the prongs or press the nut retaining clip on over the nut.
28. Reinstall the cap over the end of the axle by tapping it until it is fully seated.
29. Reinstall the wheel and tire and lightly tighten the lug nuts.
30. Raise the jack and remove the jack stand.
31. Lower the jack until there is weight on the tire.
32. Tighten the lug nut in a star pattern until tight. ( I recommend using a torque wrench to 90 Foot pounds )
33. Remove the jack and take a break you are half done.
34. Repeat from step 1. on the other side.

And that is how easy it is to repack your wheel bearings. If you have never done this before I would recommend you ask around and try to find someone that has done it and is willing to help you or at least let you watch the first time. Usually a friend will do it for a nice dinner or a 6 pack (after completion)

Disclaimer: The process for repacking your wheel bearings is based on my personal experience and is intended to give you an idea of what is involved in doing it yourself. I am in no way responsible for the results of your work or any damage or injury resulting from following these steps.

[rgrugg]

Another thing that can be used is money to pay somebody else to do it. That's what I use. Are some of you still using grease made from a newbie? Do you have to rend the newbie?

[BCDave]

Actually, many newbies just melt under pressure, so newbie-grease is easy to come by

[Roger C H]

Larry,
Excellent step by step. However I would suggest one little change.

Step 27 reads:

"27. Reinstall the cotter pin and spread the prongs or press the nut retaining clip on over the nut. Spin the drum to make sure you have the correct axle nut tightness."

I would change it to read:

27. Spin the drum to make sure you have the correct axle nut tightness. Reinstall the cotter pin and spread the prongs or press the nut retaining clip on over the nut.

It is bad to bend the cotter pin or retaining washer multiple times. You want to make sure you have the correct setting before doing any bending. You can insert the cotter pin without bending until after the spin test. I am not sure if I know what a 'nut retaining clip' is. I was thinking of a washer with tangs that can be bent into a flat of the nut to prevent turning.

[Larry,C]

Thanks for the feedback. I will edit the post to reflect your suggestion. I didn't know what to call the device that is on my 2010 Casita. It is like a cage that snaps over the nut to keep it from turning. I am familiar with the cotter pin and the tab washer. I do appreciate with help educating people that want to do these types of things themselves but don't know how. I worry that people will read in these forums that their bearing need to be repacked every year and that it can cost up to $100 dollars and decide to do it themselves and inadvertently make their bearings fail by doing it wrong. IMHO this procedure is on the high end of what should be done by people that are not comfortable working on their own vehicles.

[Deb & Chuck]

I will do bearing repacks plus seals for $50.00 per axle. Molded Fiberglass Trailers only must bring to me.
Chuck

[Kenny Strong]

Are bearings and seals standard? Do you just go to any auto parts store to get new items if needed? If races are damaged what then?

Later kenny

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Kenny Strong

Are bearings and seals standard?

Answer is mostly, but not always.

Do you just go to any auto parts store to get new items if needed?

It is a good place to start. Or go to a trailer parts store or RV parts store. Also on eBay, Amazon, various internet suppliers including eTrailer

If races are damaged what then?

Later kenny

Races can be replaced separately. You need to carefully knock or press the old ones out.

[Perry J]

I have found that wheel bearings are the least troublesome of trailer problems.
I pack the bearings on my sail boat trailer yearly as they're underwater at times.
The last time I packed the bearings on my ATV trailer was 5 years ago.
I did the bearings on my new to me 86 Lil Bigfoot when I bought it last fall.
It will probably be 3 or 4 years before I need to pack them again.
I'm 71 years old and have been towing things for 50 years and have never lost a wheel bearing.
I bring this up because I think some people new to trailering may be a little to concerned about bearings and it will spoil their enjoyment.
If the bearing cup is cool or only slightly warm you have nothing to be concerned about.
If you are not mechanically inclined DON"T do it yourself.
If it's not done correctly you will have a major expense on your hands.
John

[Greg H]

If you ever decide to do it yourself remember that a little loose is better than a little tight.

[Raz]

Originally Posted by Kenny Strong

Are bearings and seals standard? Do you just go to any auto parts store to get new items if needed? If races are damaged what then?

Later kenny

I just bought seals from etrailer. As our trailer has a Dexter axle, I went to the Dexter manual (available at the Dexter web site) and found the Dexter number for the seal. I was then able to find the correct seal at etrailer. Six dollars a set, delivered. The manual also lists other component numbers. If I needed bearings I would probably pay the extra and look for the Timken brand. The consensus is they are worth the extra cost. Raz

[Alf S.]

Hi: All... I've never packed bearings... but I won't leave home without my Master Card!!!
Going to visit my RV Tech. tomorrow to retire my trailer. New chrome rims, brass stems, bearing repac, and brake adjust. Spring tonic for what ails.
Hittin' the B'urban trail thru Kentucky to The Smokies in Tenn. next weekend.
Camping is the best tonic of all!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie