Paint or Undercoat The Frame?

[Parker Buckley]

Hi All. I'm thinking of painting the frame under our 2004 13' Scamp. The axle gets a lot of abrasion from the road and has lost whatever paint it once had, at least on the forward side. The swingarms are both a bit rust-covered. The actual trailer frame and small cross-members still have the paint mostly intact. So I'm wondering whether it's worth rolling under there to clean things up and apply a little rust-inhibiting paint after some sort of surface treatment (a rust conversion product, for example). I might even apply some sort of undercoating to the axle, since that might handle the abrasion better. On the other hand.....the axle/swingarm assembly is the one thing that gets periodically replaced and I'm sure whatever rust is on it will not be the limiting factor in its useful life. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Parker

[Alf S.]

Hi All. I'm thinking of painting the frame under our 2004 13' Scamp. The axle gets a lot of abrasion from the road and has lost whatever paint it once had, at least on the forward side. The swingarms are both a bit rust-covered. The actual trailer frame and small cross-members still have the paint mostly intact. So I'm wondering whether it's worth rolling under there to clean things up and apply a little rust-inhibiting paint after some sort of surface treatment (a rust conversion product, for example). I might even apply some sort of undercoating to the axle, since that might handle the abrasion better. On the other hand.....the axle/swingarm assembly is the one thing that gets periodically replaced and I'm sure whatever rust is on it will not be the limiting factor in its useful life. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Parker

Hi: Parker... I found it easier and IMHO better to use an aerosol can of Krown Rust Control...$10.00 I think( 1 can does a 13'er). For one thing you can get the spray nozzel in places a paint brush won't go... it won't harm the fiberglass underbelly... it takes 20 min. to apply and working from the center out you won't get dripped on...and the compound creeps through the surface rust.
Thats what I did to our former Boler FWIW!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[Darwin Maring]

RustOliem has a new product that has rust reformer in a spray can and it comes out like black paint. The rust reformer changes the rust . I just sprayed the frame of the 5r.

To find out what rust reformer is, look up another product "Extend" that sprayes clear and truns the rust black, a great product but more costly.

I like the RustOliem that comes out black. I purchased mine at Ace Hardware.

[Parker Buckley]

RustOliem has a new product that has rust reformer in a spray can and it comes out like black paint. The rust reformer changes the rust . I just sprayed the frame of the 5r.

To find out what rust reformer is, look up another product "Extend" that sprayes clear and truns the rust black, a great product but more costly.

I like the RustOliem that comes out black. I purchased mine at Ace Hardware.

I saw that product at Lowes. I think I may give it a try. I understand it forms a primer surface, so I'll go over that with RustOlium black. I appreciate the other comment about working center-out to avoid coming out looking like a Dalmatian!

Thanks,
Parker

[Darwin Maring]

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=40

Rust Reformer

[Tony Nowak]

Parker,
We are painting the frame of our 1999 scamp. We sanded and primed the tongue and bumper and plan on using semigloss black as a finish (Rustoleum).Those areas were not that rusty so I didn't think it was necessary to use a rust converter.
Under the trailer I plan to use Extend since that area is quite rusty and I already have some on hand. Thanks for asking the question on the axle/swingarm, as that is a question of mine.
Tony and Darlene

[Doug Mager]

Parker, you have seen what condition the trailers underbelly is like now. Any 'protection' you use now to protect for the future IS going to get the same treatment the underpinnings have had over the years so, NOTHING is permanant. Saying that though sounds almost like I'm trying to deture you from painting. NO, NOT so, just being sure you are aware that it will need similar attention in years ahead. This attention paid IS A GOOD IDEA!!!!

[Darwin Maring]

Paint over rust and it bubles through the paint. Use rust reformer first then paint over that and you should be golden.
The new rustoleum rust reformer comes out black and makes a great primer at the same time.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=40

[james kent]

I have a quart can of Tremclad [Rustoleum] rust paint in the basement and use it and a brush to re-coat the fram every few years to make it presentable.
No matter how much I try to be neat I always seem to get just as much on my arms too. Painting the underside of the frame is not my claim to fame.

[Parker Buckley]

Just got back from Lowes armed with RustOlium rust converter and their enamel to topcoat it. I really appreciate everyone's comments, including the reminder that this won't be a permanent paintjob. I considered using something more elastic for the axle, like an undercoating, thinking it might resist the abrasion a little better, but what the heck.....it will be good to roll under there and get up close and personal with the undercarriage again in a couple of years.

Parker

[Darwin Maring]

While U R under there, check your brake wiring and ground(s). Make sure your brakes have a good ground.

I have used the rust reformers for over 25 years and I do not remove the rust. I reform it and it seals the rust and does not rust in that spot any more. I know others will say the rust must be removed however I did this on a Plymouth Valiant that I drove for 10 years and the rust spot never got bigger or rusted again. I'm a firm believer in the product. When using the reformer, it turns the rust spot black and that may not look so good however It just don't matter on the frame.

Good Luck on your frame project.
DR in Virginia

[Parker Buckley]

While U R under there, check your brake wiring and ground(s). Make sure your brakes have a good ground.

I have used the rust reformers for over 25 years and I do not remove the rust. I reform it and it seals the rust and does not rust in that spot any more. I know others will say the rust must be removed however I did this on a Plymouth Valiant that I drove for 10 years and the rust spot never got bigger or rusted again. I'm a firm believer in the product. When using the reformer, it turns the rust spot black and that may not look so good however It just don't matter on the frame.

Good Luck on your frame project.
DR in Virginia

DR,

A friend showed me a spot he treated on an old Volvo years ago, and he had the same luck with it that you describe. Probably the biggest thing will be washing all the road crud off first. I'm not going to go crazy with this, however. Gotta get back out on the road with this thing while we have the weather for it!

Parker

[Don & Viv]

"Probably the biggest thing will be washing all the road crud off first."

I have a buddy who uses an oscillating lawn sprinkler for this job. He puts it underneath, turns the water on for awhile, moves it along under the vehicle/trailer chassis and repeats as required. Kind of a "set it and forget it" procedure. Not that it is a water conserver, mind you.

Don

[Parker Buckley]

"Probably the biggest thing will be washing all the road crud off first."

I have a buddy who uses an oscillating lawn sprinkler for this job. He puts it underneath, turns the water on for awhile, moves it along under the vehicle/trailer chassis and repeats as required. Kind of a "set it and forget it" procedure. Not that it is a water conserver, mind you.

Don

Guess I could park it over the lawn and get credit for watering the grass if nothing else! Actually, by this point, I've been under there with a spray bottle of Simple Green, a wire brush, and a garden hose and have that part done, at least to my satisfaction. I've now got it primed with the rust conversion spray and will probably get it top-coated this weekend. When it comes right down to it, it took less time to do it than I've spent here writing about it!

Parker

[Joe Z]

I've used this product for many years and can't say enough good stuff about it.... goes on milky white and dries black......underneath where the sun doesn't get at it your done but in an area that gets sun they recommend to paint over it to stop UV ..... I used to paint small areas of rusty metal and let it weather for many years and it worked perfectly with no rust again....
I bought the gallon liquid (not the paste) and it took less than 1/4 gallon to do the whole underneath frame and axle (and it was 14 years old and never done) I did not Scrape or wirebrush anything....but i did give it two coats with about 20 minutes between coates.
Joe

http://store.interstateproducts.com/...st_killer_1gal

This Picture is Untreated:




This Picture is Treated and is now about two months old:

[Parker Buckley]

I've used this product for many years and can't say enough good stuff about it.... goes on milky white and dries black...

THAT'S the stuff my friend with the old Volvo used. I couldn't find it so I went with the RustOleum spray product, then topcoated it with their spray enamel. That will probably do me for a couple of years, but I'll file away you reference for future use. Thanks!

Parker

[Uncle Cereal]

I know I'm resurrecting an old thread but it adds on to an active one. I'm facing the same decision as many had to face: what do I do with the frame? Or, to be more direct, what do I do with the rust?

I have supreme trust in the Krown rustproofing products for my car. It was mentioned here and in the recent thread. If I was to use a rust killer along the lines of what Joe is talking about, would it be pertinent to spray with a liquid rustproofing product like Krown or something else? Or would I just need to use more rust killer in a year or two?

I understand that there are many ways to look at it and I don't want to trigger more discussion than necessary, but it seems like it would make the most of the two options...

Thanks!