Painting the exterior - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-14-2006, 04:06 PM   #15
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Okay, we've had a number of threads concerning painting these little eggs. We have done several ourselves, from brush painting to having them painted professionally. The body shop is the best to be sure. However, my better half (who has far more patience than I), just finished doing the Trillium. I'm completely blown away at how nice it turned out. We saved $1,000 and didn't lose much in doing so.

She used a quality small roller loaded with Brightside Interlux Marine Enamel. It took 3 coats but I think you'll agree it is almost as good as the body shop. That paint flows nicely and doesn't leave roller marks. Cost $130 Canadian and a lot of humility on my part.

Awesome job! Now that I see how great it turned out and what product to use, I can put this on my list of things to do LOL
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Old 07-14-2006, 05:46 PM   #16
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I'm in the process of using the Interlux Topside epoxy for the floor of my Boler. I was skeptical about the finish that I was going to get using a roller, but these marine paints flow unbeleivably well. It seems like brush and roller marks virtually disappear.
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Old 07-14-2006, 06:17 PM   #17
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Thanks for the kind words everyone! Jaye, I have followed your modifications with admiration for all that you have done. It's people like you that I had in mind when I posted this thread. It seems like an economical way for do-it-yourselfers to get a nicely finished look to our units.
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Old 07-15-2006, 07:31 PM   #18
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Ken, I want to do our 84, 13ft boler. Would appreciate it if you could estimate the quantity required and was it straight from the can or is a reducer needed.
Jim
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Old 07-15-2006, 08:41 PM   #19
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I was going to spray my boler with marine grade enamel but it is SOOO thick i dont think my gun will do it. I painted a few test pieces with a brush , and the enamel evens right out so you dont even see brush strokes. I have decided im not going to spray it, i will roll it. Great job BTW.
Now i gots the fever.
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Old 07-16-2006, 02:24 AM   #20
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James, we painted straight from the can, no reducer.

And Collin, we used 4 1\2 quarts of paint. We still have a bit for touchups.
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Old 07-16-2006, 07:06 PM   #21
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Definately looks like the way to go. I don't have a compressor or spray equipment and it's not a realistic purchase for one trailer. Now if we can agree on a colour.
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Old 07-16-2006, 07:06 PM   #22
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Nice paint job--and so timely seeing this thread.

Wondering if anyone has had to deal with the exterior rivets that our Boler has??
When we re-paint, we are concerned about the paint cracking around the rivets...
We painted it many years ago with a water based "deckcoat" by Ducan, and are in the process of starting to sand it off...(big mistake, but the OLD paint really needed something and I didn't know about this site then!!!!! )

So, BIG job in sanding this junk off---any hints??? and help about the rivets too...

Ken, once again we will copy you. LOVE the dining area re-model!!!!
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Old 07-16-2006, 07:39 PM   #23
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I think i would repaint then put in new rivits.Something to think about.
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Old 07-17-2006, 08:52 AM   #24
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Nice paint job--and so timely seeing this thread.

Wondering if anyone has had to deal with the exterior rivets that our Boler has??
When we re-paint, we are concerned about the paint cracking around the rivets...
We painted it many years ago with a water based "deckcoat" by Ducan, and are in the process of starting to sand it off...(big mistake, but the OLD paint really needed something and I didn't know about this site then!!!!! )

So, BIG job in sanding this junk off---any hints??? and help about the rivets too...

Ken, once again we will copy you. LOVE the dining area re-model!!!!

Best way I know is to use a 5 or 6 inch random oscillating sander (ROS). Start with the coarsest sandpaper disc practical - 80, 50 or even coarser if the original coating is thick enough. Work up through the grits to about 220. Then you are ready for primer. For this I would use epoxy. Then top coat.

I like my Festool ROS sander and vacuum system, but it is expensive. I've read that the Ridgid ROS is nearly as good for a lot less and also has an effective vacuum hook-up.

On the other hand, there just may be a paint remover just for "Duncan Deckcoat" that will leave the fiberglass intact. I'd check that out first.
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Old 07-18-2006, 01:03 PM   #25
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What an inspiration! I can use a roller, maybe I'll do the painting of my Scamp myself

Just a tip to those who are painting...paint some EXTRA buttons (Rivet covers), if you lose one, you'll be able to replace 'em without a glaring color change.

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Old 07-18-2006, 05:17 PM   #26
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Stopped in at the local marine sales outlet this afternoon. Doesn't carry but can order interluv paints. His book price was $56.00/litre,and 4153.00/4LITRE.
the closest supplier/dealer is 75 km away from home. This is still much less expensive than spraying.
Now if we can only agree on a colour.
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Old 07-18-2006, 06:58 PM   #27
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Stopped in at the local marine sales outlet this afternoon. Doesn't carry but can order interluv paints. His book price was $56.00/litre,and 4153.00/4LITRE.
the closest supplier/dealer is 75 km away from home. This is still much less expensive than spraying.
Now if we can only agree on a colour.

James, that price sounds a little high, I would shop around. They were asking $36 a litre regular, when we got ours it was on sale for $30 a litre.

Now I wish you luck in choosing a colour.
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Old 08-06-2006, 08:48 PM   #28
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there are several different types of marine paint that are designed for use on fg. interlux is probably the most forgiving. if the gelcoat is in good condition, ie meerly oxidized, the trailer can be wet sanded with 220 grit, or scratched up with a green scotchbrite pad, primed and two coats of interlux applied for a showroom finish superiour to spraying. prep is everything. all nicks and bruises should be faired beforehand. the first coat should be thinned alot. the second put on full strength. interlux has its own brand of thinner. the paint job happens very fast. there is no going back only forward. you may decide to go vertically or horizontally and roll in an area of less than 2 feet wide at a time, a badger brush is immediately used to tip off the paint. tipping is done very gently and smoothly with a paint moistened brush. always go from wet to dry in direction. two things to watch for immediately are runs/drips and holidays, (a missed spot). these are corrected with one pass of the brush. you should not pass over the paint more than once. if you missed a spot or there is a run you see even a few strokes onward, just leave it; sand it out when it is dry and recover. interlux should be good for 4 years or so without a touchup depending on how much sun it takes.
another great paint is easypoxy by petit, a one part epoxy paint. it is more difficult to work with and is thinned with penetrol for the first coat. it hardens to a hard enamel finish.
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