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Old 07-16-2006, 06:06 PM   #21
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Definately looks like the way to go. I don't have a compressor or spray equipment and it's not a realistic purchase for one trailer. Now if we can agree on a colour.
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Old 07-16-2006, 06:06 PM   #22
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Nice paint job--and so timely seeing this thread.

Wondering if anyone has had to deal with the exterior rivets that our Boler has??
When we re-paint, we are concerned about the paint cracking around the rivets...
We painted it many years ago with a water based "deckcoat" by Ducan, and are in the process of starting to sand it off...(big mistake, but the OLD paint really needed something and I didn't know about this site then!!!!! )

So, BIG job in sanding this junk off---any hints??? and help about the rivets too...

Ken, once again we will copy you. LOVE the dining area re-model!!!!
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Old 07-16-2006, 06:39 PM   #23
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I think i would repaint then put in new rivits.Something to think about.
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Old 07-17-2006, 07:52 AM   #24
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Nice paint job--and so timely seeing this thread.

Wondering if anyone has had to deal with the exterior rivets that our Boler has??
When we re-paint, we are concerned about the paint cracking around the rivets...
We painted it many years ago with a water based "deckcoat" by Ducan, and are in the process of starting to sand it off...(big mistake, but the OLD paint really needed something and I didn't know about this site then!!!!! )

So, BIG job in sanding this junk off---any hints??? and help about the rivets too...

Ken, once again we will copy you. LOVE the dining area re-model!!!!

Best way I know is to use a 5 or 6 inch random oscillating sander (ROS). Start with the coarsest sandpaper disc practical - 80, 50 or even coarser if the original coating is thick enough. Work up through the grits to about 220. Then you are ready for primer. For this I would use epoxy. Then top coat.

I like my Festool ROS sander and vacuum system, but it is expensive. I've read that the Ridgid ROS is nearly as good for a lot less and also has an effective vacuum hook-up.

On the other hand, there just may be a paint remover just for "Duncan Deckcoat" that will leave the fiberglass intact. I'd check that out first.
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Old 07-18-2006, 12:03 PM   #25
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What an inspiration! I can use a roller, maybe I'll do the painting of my Scamp myself

Just a tip to those who are painting...paint some EXTRA buttons (Rivet covers), if you lose one, you'll be able to replace 'em without a glaring color change.

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Old 07-18-2006, 04:17 PM   #26
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Stopped in at the local marine sales outlet this afternoon. Doesn't carry but can order interluv paints. His book price was $56.00/litre,and 4153.00/4LITRE.
the closest supplier/dealer is 75 km away from home. This is still much less expensive than spraying.
Now if we can only agree on a colour.
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:58 PM   #27
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Stopped in at the local marine sales outlet this afternoon. Doesn't carry but can order interluv paints. His book price was $56.00/litre,and 4153.00/4LITRE.
the closest supplier/dealer is 75 km away from home. This is still much less expensive than spraying.
Now if we can only agree on a colour.

James, that price sounds a little high, I would shop around. They were asking $36 a litre regular, when we got ours it was on sale for $30 a litre.

Now I wish you luck in choosing a colour.
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Old 08-06-2006, 07:48 PM   #28
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there are several different types of marine paint that are designed for use on fg. interlux is probably the most forgiving. if the gelcoat is in good condition, ie meerly oxidized, the trailer can be wet sanded with 220 grit, or scratched up with a green scotchbrite pad, primed and two coats of interlux applied for a showroom finish superiour to spraying. prep is everything. all nicks and bruises should be faired beforehand. the first coat should be thinned alot. the second put on full strength. interlux has its own brand of thinner. the paint job happens very fast. there is no going back only forward. you may decide to go vertically or horizontally and roll in an area of less than 2 feet wide at a time, a badger brush is immediately used to tip off the paint. tipping is done very gently and smoothly with a paint moistened brush. always go from wet to dry in direction. two things to watch for immediately are runs/drips and holidays, (a missed spot). these are corrected with one pass of the brush. you should not pass over the paint more than once. if you missed a spot or there is a run you see even a few strokes onward, just leave it; sand it out when it is dry and recover. interlux should be good for 4 years or so without a touchup depending on how much sun it takes.
another great paint is easypoxy by petit, a one part epoxy paint. it is more difficult to work with and is thinned with penetrol for the first coat. it hardens to a hard enamel finish.
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Old 08-06-2006, 07:53 PM   #29
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sorry, forgot to add:
a high quality mohair roller is best. sand between all coats with 220 or scratch with a scotchbrite pad after a minimum 24 hour dry time.
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Old 08-10-2006, 02:42 PM   #30
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Thanks for the input Gillian. You have rounded out this topic nicely. It looks like, according to the response to this thread, that a number of people plan to roller paint their beloved units.

The finished product - c/w hand-painted rock guard!
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:18 PM   #31
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I love all of the great painting tips!

But I have a silly question,...if a person wants to let thier inner hippy/child loose and paint a Compact Jr say kind of like a fish bowl (you know, blue water slouching to the back because you are going fast and yellow sky then add fish and turtles here and there), could you add animals and detail on top of the main colors as long as you move fast?

Thanks
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:20 PM   #32
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you can do whatever you want!

I won't be following you tho
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:51 PM   #33
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Quote:
I love all of the great painting tips!

But I have a silly question,...if a person wants to let thier inner hippy/child loose and paint a Compact Jr say kind of like a fish bowl (you know, blue water slouching to the back because you are going fast and yellow sky then add fish and turtles here and there), could you add animals and detail on top of the main colors as long as you move fast?

Thanks
Sharyl
Sounds like painting a murial to me... I don't know how layering items would affect the outcome... would background colors bleed thru the fish and turtles?
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:01 PM   #34
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I think what you are wanting to do with the fishbowl effect is better left to airbrush painting. It it were me I would start with a white background and build up with the airbrush from there.

I'm sure there are other members more informed on the airbrush technique who will jump in and help you here.

Good luck!
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Old 08-22-2006, 09:50 PM   #35
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Sounds like painting a murial to me...
Last I heard, Murial disliked having her body painted
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Old 08-30-2006, 11:11 AM   #36
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Well I started today! I'm not sure where this is headed but for now I'm peeling the old paint off of the front. The previous owner put a heavy primer on the front upper only in order to cover the original decals. Over the years as the paint shrank and weathered a line showed at the edge of the primered area. The paint peels off in strips here but is ok elswhere. I want to get the paint, primer and decals off so as to start fresh and not end up with the same mess. Looks like a bigger job than I expected. If I can clean this all up this fall and have the trailer sanded, then I hope to repaint in the spring....Fun and games
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Old 08-30-2006, 01:54 PM   #37
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previous owner
...those can be curse words james!
i've owned trailers where the p.o. went goop crazy and ALWAYS went with a half-done crappy fix; its so frustrating as it takes twice as long; first undo thier mess, then finally complete a simple nice repair.
this doesn't look too bad, just a really unneccesary pain in the ...
at least he stopped with the front!
i'm very jealous of your molded rock guard if thats any consolation.
just bust on through this annoying job and sing a merry tune about how much you love the p.o.; that's what i do..
the great thing about fg is that there is rarely a timeline, it will be waiting for you in the spring with no harm done, unlike a canned ham
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Old 04-21-2011, 09:32 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Ken James View Post
>>>>snip>>>
She used a quality small roller loaded with Brightside Interlux Marine Enamel. It took 3 coats but I think you'll agree it is almost as good as the body shop. That paint flows nicely and doesn't leave roller marks. Cost $130 Canadian and a lot of humility on my part.
I'm nearing the point of painting my Trillium Jubilee and I'm in Mississauga Ontario, Canada so, please, tell, where did you buy the paint and how many litres of it have you used?
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:23 PM   #39
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I hope he checks in but the last activity by Ken James was back in 2008, so I will try to answer your question as best I can....
I used 3 ltr of primer [2 coats] and 4 ltr of Brightsides 3 coats] which I purchased from Heritage Marine in London, Ont. I followed their instructions which were similar to the method Ken described. Use a small foam roller and roll it out fully. This brings up some very small bubbles which you gently wisk with a very fine, dry brush. A light sanding between coats helps the paint to adhere better and removes runs and any drips.
Although it has now been over 4 years since the trailer was painted it still looks great.
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:54 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by james kent View Post
I hope he checks in but the last activity by Ken James was back in 2008, so I will try to answer your question as best I can....
I used 3 ltr of primer [2 coats] and 4 ltr of Brightsides 3 coats] which I purchased from Heritage Marine in London, Ont. I followed their instructions which were similar to the method Ken described. Use a small foam roller and roll it out fully. This brings up some very small bubbles which you gently wisk with a very fine, dry brush. A light sanding between coats helps the paint to adhere better and removes runs and any drips.
Although it has now been over 4 years since the trailer was painted it still looks great.
Thanks a lot. What primer have you used? Epoxy type paints tend to cure quickly... how much time have you allowed between the coats? I'm kind of thinking that since you did light sanding between the coats, they were fully cured so, there is no real time limits. Just not sure...
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