Painting the exterior - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-13-2011, 12:52 PM   #57
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chester, did you use a roller as well? it looks smooth, does it look professional up close? great job, btw
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:29 PM   #58
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Ken , Great job as always, Diane is a do all woman that's for sure. Glad seeing you back on the forum, I have been away for the last 2-3 years. But I'm back now with another 13' Scamp, and have been getting it ready for a 4 day camp out over July 4th. By the way I sent you a pm. Your Friend, Tim
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:49 PM   #59
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Glad seeing you back on the forum, I have been away for the last 2-3 years.
While Ken's thread has been revived, Ken didn't do it.

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Old 06-24-2011, 07:13 PM   #60
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While Ken's thread has been revived, Ken didn't do it.
Yes after I posted I went back and read some of the dates of the thread. I did see that Ken hadn't posted anything in a while.
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Old 06-24-2011, 07:21 PM   #61
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Ken has/had been ill for quite sometime. I'm thinking it's possible he's "crossed the bridge."
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Old 06-24-2011, 08:59 PM   #62
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Sorry to hear that , I did know that he was ill. Ken was a good friend that I never met in person. When I went to Alaska from NY in 2005, we talked via computer every couple of days or so. He told me places to see and roads to take through Canada and up into Alaska. Plus I learned a lot about making a front Dinette from him. TW
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Old 06-25-2011, 10:16 PM   #63
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Ken has/had been ill for quite sometime. I'm thinking it's possible he's "crossed the bridge."
That is so sad. It was through reading Ken,s postings and his answers to questions that I got the encouragement to go ahead and do the necessary work on the trailer. I hope he will aways be here in the Legacy Posts.
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Old 06-25-2011, 10:29 PM   #64
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One of the best parts of FiberglassRV (IMHO) is the archive of information. I'm not certain about Ken's status and hope I haven't stated something that's simply not true. But we know others have gone on to the "marvelous camping spot" and their words will be part of FiberglassRV, as long as it exists.

Ya gotta love the wealth of information to be found!
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Old 07-10-2011, 12:02 AM   #65
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I am now finishing up the restoration of my 1988 13' Bigfoot trailer and would like to get rid of the old blue tape or paint that is on the exterior. It was a design detail but is now faded and doesn't look good. I don't really want to re-paint it (or the whole exterior for that matter) and would even get rid of the Bigfoot name, which you can hardly see any more. Any suggestions on how to clean up the outside of these racing type stripes and logo?
Also, I have decided to use car wax as suggested by Donna and a rubbing compound for cleaning and polishing the exterior Gelcoat rather than the acrylic fillers like Poly Glo. Any thoughts on this?
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Old 07-10-2011, 09:04 AM   #66
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I am now finishing up the restoration of my 1988 13' Bigfoot trailer and would like to get rid of the old blue tape or paint that is on the exterior. It was a design detail but is now faded and doesn't look good. I don't really want to re-paint it (or the whole exterior for that matter) and would even get rid of the Bigfoot name, which you can hardly see any more. Any suggestions on how to clean up the outside of these racing type stripes and logo?
Also, I have decided to use car wax as suggested by Donna and a rubbing compound for cleaning and polishing the exterior Gelcoat rather than the acrylic fillers like Poly Glo. Any thoughts on this?
Go to any AUTOBODY supply store and ask for a stripe eraser wheel
You can put it in your drill and it won't wreck the paint
The only thing it may do is leave a cloud Thant can be waxed or polished out
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Old 07-10-2011, 09:51 AM   #67
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A heat gun & a razor blade scraper works too, although you want to be pretty careful not to dig into the paint with the blade. That's the way we've normally removed decals at the bodyshops where I've worked. Whether you use a wheel or scraper / heatgun combo, you'll still have some residue to clean up, with paint thinner.
As for cleaning & polishing, So long as you use a decent polishing compound & don't "burn" it into the gelcoat, you should be OK. As for Wax, carnauba wax is my personal favourite. Better than Turtle wax type products.
Sounds like you're on the right track! good luck....
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Old 07-18-2011, 12:07 PM   #68
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Where do you buy the paint in Alberta?

Wow! This is just what I am looking for. Where do you buy the paint? Can you get the paint tinted? What grain of sandpaper was used? How long since you painted and how is it wearing?

Also, did you have to take any old decals off; if so, how is this done?
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Old 07-18-2011, 12:44 PM   #69
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Here is the one I just sold. Most marine stores carry the paint. It is not tintable, but you instead by the colour you want. There are around 20 colours, different whites and about 3 greys.

I went with Blue glo white (top) and Seattle Grey (bottom). You need about 1 quart for the bottom and 2 for the top half. Gives plenty of room for 2 coats and touch ups. This was with thinning it 10 percent with their reducer - you will want to do this to avoid the brush lines. Flows real nice when thinned the 10 percent. Not thinned, not so much.

I used Interlux Briteside.

Sandpaper was 280 and finishing about a 400. It goes on fairly thick and flows well so do not waste your time sanding it too smooth. 400 or above you are wasting your time.
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Old 08-09-2011, 04:46 AM   #70
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Two Part paints

Rolling is not the best way. There is something called Tip and Roll. In reality it is Roll and Tip. Rolling the paint on up and down, and then another person follow and lightly drags a foam brush horizontally to pop the bubbles. With 2 part Interlux, it looks like it is sprayed on. I thin it about 40% and do three coats.

The Brightside is a one part paint and can easily be damaged. The Perfection paint, is two part, and dries like rock--you can't really scratch it because the paint is so hard--it lasts far longer than Brightside.



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Okay, we've had a number of threads concerning painting these little eggs. We have done several ourselves, from brush painting to having them painted professionally. The body shop is the best to be sure. However, my better half (who has far more patience than I), just finished doing the Trillium. I'm completely blown away at how nice it turned out. We saved $1,000 and didn't lose much in doing so.

She used a quality small roller loaded with Brightside Interlux Marine Enamel. It took 3 coats but I think you'll agree it is almost as good as the body shop. That paint flows nicely and doesn't leave roller marks. Cost $130 Canadian and a lot of humility on my part.
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