QUOTE=frank_a;426183]Is the water system drained just by removing the anode tube from the hot water heater? I can't find any other spigots!
How about those mud dauber guards? Where can I get them, like a link if possible.
Thanks for any help you ParkLiner
A search on Amazon for "RV mud dauber screen" will get you lots of options.
Re: Drain spigots, the early ParkLiners didn't have any except possibly for the fresh H20 holding tank. If you have one you will see about 1" of pex tubing sticking out of the bottom of the trailer on the street side toward the rear. The handle for the valve is hidden under the plywood board that the water pump is mounted on. You can't see it, you have to reach underneath and open it by feel. Later models, #34 included have a bypass installed for the water heater and drain lines for the water heater and cold water plumbing installed on the curb side. You can see the valve for the water heater installed in the red pex tubing but again, the cold has to be done by feel. My procedure is as follows:
1. Open all drain valves and kitchen faucet and shower valve (hot and cold) to allow air into the system and drain as much water as possible.
2. Close valves and connect brass blow out plug to city water inlet and pressurize system to ~60-80 psi with compressor connected.
3. Hold shower head over toilet or kitchen sink and open valves until no more water vapor comes out. Close shower valve.
4. Hold toilet fill valve until no water vapor comes out.
5. Open kitchen faucet valves until no water vapor comes out.
6. Disconnect compressor and remove blow out plug from city water connection. Using funnel, pour 2-3 gals of RV anti-freeze into holding tank.
7. Close water heater bypass valve (you don't want to pump 6 gals of anti-freeze into water heater) and turn on water pump.
8.Open kitchen faucet valves until air is purged and pink anti-freeze runs out. Close valves
9. Repeat with shower valve.
10. Flush toilet until air is purged and anti-freeze runs into bowl.
11. Open hot
kitchen faucet, close push button shut-off valve on shower head and open both hot and cold shower valves. This will force anti-freeze from the cold side of the shower valve through the hot side and out the hot faucet valve in the kitchen sink. Turn off pump.
12. Turn on shower bilge pump and pour 1-2 cups of anti-freeze in shower drain. Turn off pump.
13. Pull anode rod from water heater and allow any excess water/anti-freeze to drain. Connect a 3/4" diameter tube to the hose on a wet/dry shop vac and suck out any remaining water and sediment from water heater. (I got about a half gallon) Fill anode rod hole with steel wool or better- copper wool or a copper scrubbie and order a new anode rod to install in the spring.
14. Drain and dispose of anti-freeze from gray water tank. leave valve open and cover opening with screening or pack with copper wool.
That was fun, wasn't it. If you don't have all the drain valves, it is a little more complicated but necessary. If you are at all handy, working with pex tubing is pretty simple and you can install your own drains and water heater bypass. Definitely worth having. The procedure sounds a little complicated, but start to finish took me about an hour. Hope I haven't confused
anyone, but this is what worked for me.